Windows sealing
Discussion
I'm (hopefully!) picking up a 97 Chim 450 on Tuesday, as my introduction to the wonderful world of TVR, but was wondering about the windows and their sealing to the roof. Several of the cars I have test driven have had windows which did not fully seal along their top edge, to the extent that I was beginning to think none of them would! The one I am buying has a small gap of a few millimetres at the front of the windows, but it seems to be exactly what I want otherwise. The owner assures me that it does not leak, but I would be surprised if he said otherwise! (Garaged, so carpets dry as a bone - no clues there!)
Are there actually thousands of Chims out there perfectly sealed and completely dry, or are the gaps I've seen common and just part of the ownership experience(!)?
And can they be closed by the use of some extra fat seals etc etc?
Counting the hours 'till I'm driving it now...
Andrew
Are there actually thousands of Chims out there perfectly sealed and completely dry, or are the gaps I've seen common and just part of the ownership experience(!)?
And can they be closed by the use of some extra fat seals etc etc?
Counting the hours 'till I'm driving it now...
Andrew
Hi.......my Chim has a slight gap )0.5mm on the passenger side nearest the screen tapering away to sealed at the rear of the window.
I have tried to adjust it ,,,but as there is no leak there I have not paid it too much attention.
Moral of the story...you can have a slight gap and no leaks.....wind noise at speed does however increase..
I have tried to adjust it ,,,but as there is no leak there I have not paid it too much attention.
Moral of the story...you can have a slight gap and no leaks.....wind noise at speed does however increase..
Mine only has a gap if I haven't fitted the roof panel on properly (i.e. if I've not fitted it completely centrally or if it's not completely snug at the front)
Is it completely snug? Try thumping along the front edge with the side of your fist...
Is the gap on both left & right sides?
Is it completely snug? Try thumping along the front edge with the side of your fist...
Is the gap on both left & right sides?
CraigAlsop said:
Mine only has a gap if I haven't fitted the roof panel on properly (i.e. if I've not fitted it completely centrally or if it's not completely snug at the front)
Is it completely snug? Try thumping along the front edge with the side of your fist...
Is the gap on both left & right sides?
There should be a peg that has a nylon over-sleeve on it to centralise the hood in position.
You may have the peg, but is the over-sleeve there?
Seem to remember reading that a useful trick is to feed some washwipe tubing down the inside of the roof rubber to fatten it up. Then contact is made.
I haven't tried it, and as with most others here the small gap never presents a problem. Wind noise is the only issue (but there are always plenty of interesting noises to enjoy when driving a TVR
)
Quite honestly if this is the major concern you have over whether to buy this particular car - well - I assume it's being inspected by a TVR professional.....
I haven't tried it, and as with most others here the small gap never presents a problem. Wind noise is the only issue (but there are always plenty of interesting noises to enjoy when driving a TVR
) Quite honestly if this is the major concern you have over whether to buy this particular car - well - I assume it's being inspected by a TVR professional.....
I think a tiny gap is ok as mine has a slight gap on the passenger side & no leak. However the drivers side has no gap. As a result when you close the door with the window all the way up the glass catches the seal & distorts the ridge that deflects the water away. This cause water to run down the inside of the glass.
Thanks for all the replies! (Have changed nickname to reflect new state of mind)
It seems the gap is not a major concern, which is nice... It was never going to be a deal-breaker anyway!
Car has indeed been looked over, and report says all the right things, to allay Jarcy's fears
I'll be sure to wave at all the Chim drivers I see!
Cheers
Andrew
It seems the gap is not a major concern, which is nice... It was never going to be a deal-breaker anyway!
Car has indeed been looked over, and report says all the right things, to allay Jarcy's fears
I'll be sure to wave at all the Chim drivers I see!
Cheers
Andrew
They were indeed, though mine wasn't actually a Brooklands but an early injection non-special (no LSD, no half leather interior)... It had been carefully disguised with a blow-over in Brooky green and the addition of some 15" Brooky wheels. Kept the 'injection' decals the same though - wasn't really trying to dupe anyone! The Brooklands all had '280' on the side...
Nice car, but ultimately just a Cortina with a fancy body, a chassis from 1874 (well, 1962 or thereabouts) and cart springs attaching the body to a solid rear axle.
Handled like it too, but that was all part of the charm... until my impromptu body mods...
I'll have to look up where the NW London arm of the club meets up, and find out just who those other drivers are!
Andrew
And a Tickford eh? Nice! Apparently at the time the fastest car Ford had ever produced (if you don't count a Tickford as an Aston...). Overheat much?
>> Edited by WooHoo on Wednesday 14th July 23:33
Nice car, but ultimately just a Cortina with a fancy body, a chassis from 1874 (well, 1962 or thereabouts) and cart springs attaching the body to a solid rear axle.
Handled like it too, but that was all part of the charm... until my impromptu body mods...
I'll have to look up where the NW London arm of the club meets up, and find out just who those other drivers are!
Andrew
And a Tickford eh? Nice! Apparently at the time the fastest car Ford had ever produced (if you don't count a Tickford as an Aston...). Overheat much?
>> Edited by WooHoo on Wednesday 14th July 23:33
WooHoo said:
And a Tickford eh? Nice! Apparently at the time the fastest car Ford had ever produced (if you don't count a Tickford as an Aston...). Overheat much?
Well I never saw 155mph on a motorway racing a big Jap bike, never, nope, not me sir!
Never had any trouble overheating unless you count the rear tyres, in anything other than bone dry conditions it was hoot, if you were hooligan enough it would spin the wheels in almost any gear
Didn't help me being 18 at the time either and obviously completely immortal.
Dad owned a garage so insurance was no issue
My 500 is a Malaysian model and does not have an adjuster as described above (see picture), however I had the same problem with my passenger window - good fit at the rear but 2-3mm gap at the front.
I eventually removed the door panel - once off there is plenty of adjustment available at the base of the window where it fits into the lifter mechanism - it's a bit trial and error however I achieved good results - now have hardly any gap and wind noise has virtually gone.
To remove the door panel you must first take out door speaker - there are three nuts which must be removed from inside the door - these are located as follows:
(Assuming Drivers Door)
put right arm in speaker aperture and feel forward at same height as aperture you will find a 10mm nut - remove.
Next put left arm in aperture and feel backwards in door panel roughly in the middle of door is nut no. 2 and then further towards the rear of the door is nut no.3.
Once these internal nuts are removed take out ash tray - there should be a retaining screw behind - remove - then you can remove the whole inner door assembly by lifting up & out. This will leave the inner panel in place which must be then removed,- you may come across more retaining screws depending if the panel has been previously removed or not - I found 1 at the rear.
Once all is removed access to the lifter motor and window is a cinch.
You will need a couple of hours to complete this - don't forget to check the gap prior to re-fitting the door panel - you may have some trial & error's before getting it right.
Warning: if you are a serious gym fanatic you will struggle to get your arms in to the door via the speaker aperture - my 17 year old son had to do mine!
Good luck.
I eventually removed the door panel - once off there is plenty of adjustment available at the base of the window where it fits into the lifter mechanism - it's a bit trial and error however I achieved good results - now have hardly any gap and wind noise has virtually gone.
To remove the door panel you must first take out door speaker - there are three nuts which must be removed from inside the door - these are located as follows:
(Assuming Drivers Door)
put right arm in speaker aperture and feel forward at same height as aperture you will find a 10mm nut - remove.
Next put left arm in aperture and feel backwards in door panel roughly in the middle of door is nut no. 2 and then further towards the rear of the door is nut no.3.
Once these internal nuts are removed take out ash tray - there should be a retaining screw behind - remove - then you can remove the whole inner door assembly by lifting up & out. This will leave the inner panel in place which must be then removed,- you may come across more retaining screws depending if the panel has been previously removed or not - I found 1 at the rear.
Once all is removed access to the lifter motor and window is a cinch.
You will need a couple of hours to complete this - don't forget to check the gap prior to re-fitting the door panel - you may have some trial & error's before getting it right.
Warning: if you are a serious gym fanatic you will struggle to get your arms in to the door via the speaker aperture - my 17 year old son had to do mine!
Good luck.
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