Servicing Question
Discussion
OK then I've had the Griff a whole 4 days now (of which its spent 2.5 days at an Autoelectricians for the alarm).
Next job is a service.
I've read the service schedule and decided that I'm not paying TVR a whopping sum for what they do. I'll probably use a specialist in the future but this time want to get a garage to do fluids, belts etc. so I know they've been done.
I'm planning
Oil & filter (5-40 synthetic) - no idea what filter)
Air filter (no idea what from)
Gearbox fluid (as per handbook)
Diff fluid (as per handbook)
Brake fluid (Dot 4)
Clutch fluid (Dot4)
Cooling system (12 litres of which 30% is anti freeze?)
Alternator belt (no idea what from)
Plugs (No idea what from)
Plug leads (Again no idea from what)
Can anyone help me out with identification any of these parts (1993 Griff 500)
Are there any cam belts?
Have I missed anything obvious?
Help appreciated
Dave
I might finally get to drive it at the weekend
Next job is a service.
I've read the service schedule and decided that I'm not paying TVR a whopping sum for what they do. I'll probably use a specialist in the future but this time want to get a garage to do fluids, belts etc. so I know they've been done.
I'm planning
Oil & filter (5-40 synthetic) - no idea what filter)
Air filter (no idea what from)
Gearbox fluid (as per handbook)
Diff fluid (as per handbook)
Brake fluid (Dot 4)
Clutch fluid (Dot4)
Cooling system (12 litres of which 30% is anti freeze?)
Alternator belt (no idea what from)
Plugs (No idea what from)
Plug leads (Again no idea from what)
Can anyone help me out with identification any of these parts (1993 Griff 500)
Are there any cam belts?
Have I missed anything obvious?
Help appreciated
Dave
I might finally get to drive it at the weekend

No. The Griff has a flat rectangular filter which fits over the horizontal 'hole' in the nose cone above the number plate recess. There is a black glassfibre housing which fits over this and the air hose fits on the end of that with a jubilee clip.
I discovered mine was all loose the other weekend - had not been put back together properly after a service. Tried to do it myself, and whilst I could get the filter box roughly in position, I just can't get the hose on the end of the box properly. There is no room to get your hands in there, and the airbox won't come out of the nose cone without removing the radiator.
Mechanic at Thames Valley Racetech described it as one of the fiddliest jobs on a Griff - much prefers the Chimaera set up.
Mine is going back to the supplying/servicing dealer for some remedial work. Luckily (!) it has a leaking rad, so when they change that they will be able to do the airfilter assembly properly this time!
Good luck!! (Or just fit a Chimaera filter!!)
I discovered mine was all loose the other weekend - had not been put back together properly after a service. Tried to do it myself, and whilst I could get the filter box roughly in position, I just can't get the hose on the end of the box properly. There is no room to get your hands in there, and the airbox won't come out of the nose cone without removing the radiator.
Mechanic at Thames Valley Racetech described it as one of the fiddliest jobs on a Griff - much prefers the Chimaera set up.
Mine is going back to the supplying/servicing dealer for some remedial work. Luckily (!) it has a leaking rad, so when they change that they will be able to do the airfilter assembly properly this time!
Good luck!! (Or just fit a Chimaera filter!!)
Dave, you might find a dealer like TMS (tvrgear.com) cheaper than Haflords for most parts. Everyone makes 100% on these things. Of course if you have a good 'trade' type Motor factors then use them instead.
Also, following on from an earlier reply, read up on DOT 5 brake fluid before using it - what you really want is DOT 5.1.
There are some tuning hints on RPIs website (www.v8engines.com) BTW.
T/.
Also, following on from an earlier reply, read up on DOT 5 brake fluid before using it - what you really want is DOT 5.1.
There are some tuning hints on RPIs website (www.v8engines.com) BTW.
T/.
Gearbox oil depends on which gearbox. If it is rover type (reversenext to 1st) then Atf is fine. If it is T5 (reverse below 5th) the you must use synthetic ATF (MObil atfshc)
Diff If it is GKN diff (large cooling fin on rear) then use HD90. If it is BTR diff you MUST use Mobil atfshc 80/140 id This is imperative with this diff
Spark plug gap should be 40 thou
Diff If it is GKN diff (large cooling fin on rear) then use HD90. If it is BTR diff you MUST use Mobil atfshc 80/140 id This is imperative with this diff
Spark plug gap should be 40 thou
quote:
I need to top up my diff too. Does anyone know where I can get the oil?
Adrian at Exactly TVR - topped mine up when the car was there a couple of weekends ago.
www.exactly-tvr.demon.co.uk
Andy
>> Edited by andyvg on Wednesday 29th May 09:36
Thanks all,
Air filter is foam and round and looks easy to remove (its held in by cover which in turn is just 2 screws).
Its quite dirty so I'm going to clean it before it even goes for its service.
Garage is getting the fluids in as his book surprisingly lists the Griffith 500 (!!). He's also supplying the air filter.
I'll get him to get the plugs or get them from a factors.
This leaves :-
Fuel Filter (from what ?)
Plug Leads (from which Range Rover)
Also he's saying 5-40 synthetic is this likely to be an issue. I can get Triple R (as used by lotus) 5-40 for £15 per 5 litres so price not too much of an issue but oil pressure might etc. might be.
Can anyone help out with these items?
Dave
Air filter is foam and round and looks easy to remove (its held in by cover which in turn is just 2 screws).
Its quite dirty so I'm going to clean it before it even goes for its service.
Garage is getting the fluids in as his book surprisingly lists the Griffith 500 (!!). He's also supplying the air filter.
I'll get him to get the plugs or get them from a factors.
This leaves :-
Fuel Filter (from what ?)
Plug Leads (from which Range Rover)
Also he's saying 5-40 synthetic is this likely to be an issue. I can get Triple R (as used by lotus) 5-40 for £15 per 5 litres so price not too much of an issue but oil pressure might etc. might be.
Can anyone help out with these items?
Dave
Thanks.
Yes I know Manecor from my last car. Sounds silly but they transform the MX5 and make it less hesitant (KV8.5's) under load (not a problem in the Griff though).
I'm guessing they wont be cheap as the Mazda ones were about £57 delivered from the disributer inc. a generous Owners Club Discount. So 8 leads will I assume cost a good bit more?
I might get them later and go with a set from Wedge at around £40 for now as the car is going in later in the week for the engine looking at
Dave
Yes I know Manecor from my last car. Sounds silly but they transform the MX5 and make it less hesitant (KV8.5's) under load (not a problem in the Griff though).
I'm guessing they wont be cheap as the Mazda ones were about £57 delivered from the disributer inc. a generous Owners Club Discount. So 8 leads will I assume cost a good bit more?
I might get them later and go with a set from Wedge at around £40 for now as the car is going in later in the week for the engine looking at

Dave
For oil check out millersoils web site they have a large choice of fully synthetic oils,I'm using 10-60 motorsport spec designed for high torque V8's and special endurance racing diff oil.
Ring or E-mail for advice they are very helpful and not to expensive.
The fuel filter looks like a ford canister type.
Ring or E-mail for advice they are very helpful and not to expensive.
The fuel filter looks like a ford canister type.
Dave,
Have you got a copy of the bible, If you have then you probably know this already so just ignore me.
On the older engines it’s highly likely you will have to prime the oil pump if you change the oil filter. I don’t think this is the case on newer engines and I don’t have my bible to hand to check the details. There are a few ways to prime the pump, packing it with Vaseline is the only one I remember, wonder why
.
For this reason I don’t change the filter for intermediate oil changes, it’s only done when it goes in to the experts.
I also use a thicker oil Mobil 1 Motorsport, forget what the grade is, but it is thicker and seams to hold the pressure better when hot and she don’t use as much, dammed expensive though.
Cheers,
Simon.
Have you got a copy of the bible, If you have then you probably know this already so just ignore me.
On the older engines it’s highly likely you will have to prime the oil pump if you change the oil filter. I don’t think this is the case on newer engines and I don’t have my bible to hand to check the details. There are a few ways to prime the pump, packing it with Vaseline is the only one I remember, wonder why

For this reason I don’t change the filter for intermediate oil changes, it’s only done when it goes in to the experts.
I also use a thicker oil Mobil 1 Motorsport, forget what the grade is, but it is thicker and seams to hold the pressure better when hot and she don’t use as much, dammed expensive though.
Cheers,
Simon.
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