Manifold gaskets and CV boots
Discussion
I have never replaced these items before but both jobs look achieveable. I know I can get the gaskets replaced professionally for a reasonable price, but want to take some time to overhaul and repair (if necessary) the exhaust / 4 into 1 branch. So rather than have the car sitting around an indy's garage for ages, I would prefer to tackle it in my own time in my own garage. Questions:-
- My main fear is sheering off any seized exhaust bolts, is this likely.
- Are their any particulary difficult bits (apart from accessibility)
- Best way to identify any cracks/holes and best way to repair.
- Benefits of keeping the pre cats in or removing.
With regard to the boots.
- Can I use a cone to stretch the boots on?
- Any advice on this replacing.
- My main fear is sheering off any seized exhaust bolts, is this likely.
- Are their any particulary difficult bits (apart from accessibility)
- Best way to identify any cracks/holes and best way to repair.
- Benefits of keeping the pre cats in or removing.
With regard to the boots.
- Can I use a cone to stretch the boots on?
- Any advice on this replacing.
As towards the exhaust nuts have a look first? Do they look rusty?? My fire nuts on my corsa do and i don't fancy touching them because i can see they'll be trouble.
My spare engine for the Taimar has cast manifolds which are really rusty. so is the surface on the bolts and on Monday night I attempted removing in which snapped/shared in half.
If they look decently clean then id say have ago. Make sure you use a 6 sided socket if your worried, the multisided sockets put surface pressure on the corners of the nuts/bolts which usually end in rounding!
Also if you fancy spray some wd40 the day before to try and penetrate the ru.sty surfaces/faces/threads.
My spare engine for the Taimar has cast manifolds which are really rusty. so is the surface on the bolts and on Monday night I attempted removing in which snapped/shared in half.
If they look decently clean then id say have ago. Make sure you use a 6 sided socket if your worried, the multisided sockets put surface pressure on the corners of the nuts/bolts which usually end in rounding!
Also if you fancy spray some wd40 the day before to try and penetrate the ru.sty surfaces/faces/threads.
Regarding the Boots.
I have recently replaced all 4 of mine following advice given on here.
Undo the 6 bolts at diff end and at the hub end.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower wishbone to the upright hub carrier.
Snip the 2 tywraps securing the handbrake cables.
Ease the hub outwards and upwards carefully to give enough room to remove the shaft from the car.
Remove the circlip holding the CV joint and slide the joint off (might need a tap).
Ideally do this for both joints, clean, regrease, and fit new boots.
Refit shaft in reverse.
I have recently replaced all 4 of mine following advice given on here.
Undo the 6 bolts at diff end and at the hub end.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower wishbone to the upright hub carrier.
Snip the 2 tywraps securing the handbrake cables.
Ease the hub outwards and upwards carefully to give enough room to remove the shaft from the car.
Remove the circlip holding the CV joint and slide the joint off (might need a tap).
Ideally do this for both joints, clean, regrease, and fit new boots.
Refit shaft in reverse.
Neil400 said:
Regarding the Boots.
I have recently replaced all 4 of mine following advice given on here.
Undo the 6 bolts at diff end and at the hub end.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower wishbone to the upright hub carrier.
Snip the 2 tywraps securing the handbrake cables.
Ease the hub outwards and upwards carefully to give enough room to remove the shaft from the car.
Remove the circlip holding the CV joint and slide the joint off (might need a tap).
Ideally do this for both joints, clean, regrease, and fit new boots.
Refit shaft in reverse.
Thanks Neil. I have recently replaced all 4 of mine following advice given on here.
Undo the 6 bolts at diff end and at the hub end.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower wishbone to the upright hub carrier.
Snip the 2 tywraps securing the handbrake cables.
Ease the hub outwards and upwards carefully to give enough room to remove the shaft from the car.
Remove the circlip holding the CV joint and slide the joint off (might need a tap).
Ideally do this for both joints, clean, regrease, and fit new boots.
Refit shaft in reverse.
So once you have removed the CV joint, do the boots just pull on to the shafts or will I need a boot cone to stretch them on?
whitewolf said:
Also if you fancy spray some wd40 the day before to try and penetrate the ru.sty surfaces/faces/threads.
This is a really good idea, I did it a number of times during the week before. I used plus gas rather than wd40 as it's a penetrating spray rather than a general silicone lubricant and I managed not to snap any bolts 
. Some bolts can't be fully extracted with a socket but can be reached to release the tension. A couple can be reached with a couple of long extensions so the ratchet is in the front wheel arch. There are some that can only be reached with a spanner.Fully recommend the sockets that grip the sides and not the corners of the bolt, try and get hold of the thin wall versions so they will fir in the tighter spaces. Also 1/4" drive sockets can be useful.
When it comes to reassembly the ARP bolts with nordlock washers are a good replacement as the smaller head will give you more room for the spanner/socket. Also plenty of copper grease on the thread will help to ensure you can get them out again if you need to.
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff