POR 15 prep experiences

[taylormj4]

Replacing lower ball joints, track rod ends and ARB links on front NS tomorrow and was thinking of doing some clean up and painting in there too.

Have used POR15 quite a bit on my old Range Rover and am following the full process, although did get some success with just wire brushing and slapping it straight on.

What are people using for the chassis / out-riggers / wishbones etc, are you doing the full degrease (Marine Clean) and then primer (Metal Ready) or are you just degreasing and then straight in with the POR 15, or just POR15 straight on.

The full process is obviously best but you have to rinse off and then wait for it to thoroughly dry, which extends the job over more than one day really, even if only doing a wishbone.

[m3jappa]

I think do it right do it once. Not a nice job to do more than at the most once

[Pursyluv]

m3jappa said:

I think do it right do it once. Not a nice job to do more than at the most once

Ahem yes, remove waxoil if present, degrease with TFR or similar, Prep and Ready (formerly Metal Ready) for rust treatment, then POR 15 or similar.

[Barreti]

I've used POR15 on all my chassis but done 2 different ways to see how it works.

In the engine bay, where I first repainted I used Electrox zinc rich primer first with POR15 over the top.
On the new chassis outriggers I followed the mfg instructions and used marine clean then metal ready primer then 2 coats of POR15 then a coat of chassis black under the wheel arches because POR15 isn't UV stable.

I honestly can't see any difference in the results. Both are still in really good nick.
The Zinc primer does cover quite thick, which can make a difference if you are painting things like wishbones where the shocks have to slot into a gap.

I can't see the point of going to all the trouble of using POR15, which is horrible to use because you CAN'T get it off once its on your skin, if you aren't prepared to go that extra mile and do the prep right. It will save you trouble in the years to come.

[dickythediver]

Hi, I am in the middle of an all four corners suspension rebuild. First wishbones came off and went away to have old bearings pressed out, then shot blasted, zinc dipped and then powder coated. Rusty bits on the chassis will be degreased wire brushed then I use Molecular Rust Converter, then painted with Rustbuster epoxy mastic and finished with a coat of hamerite smooth white to get back to the original colour. The outriggers got the same treatment except for the hamerite which was replaced by Dinitrol black 4941 underbody wax. As someone rightly said it is a job that you only want to do once and do 100%. Hope this helps.

[spongy]

I love the stuff ,just do what it says on the tins and take your time and you will be well happy with the results....i for one will use nothing else now i have found it

[spongy]

Heres mine mid way through its build,well not quit mid way

[taylormj4]

Yes agreed do it right. I totally agree. But there are places that you can't really do that process or you wouldn't like to. For instance, I have repaired the floor in my Rangie with new panels and welded in patches. I need to paint the up side of the floor, inside the car but I don't really want to be flushing the inside of the car out with water like the manufacturers require cos all that water will no doubt find it's way into some of the unpainted panel joins or get into the box sections (even though I've used body sealant) and then will rust from under the new paint.

For those areas a degreaser that you could spray over and wipe away, or use with a cloth would be better but not found any yet. Heard of panel wipe but think that's for a final light degrease of a panel before painting, not removing old muck and grease.

For wishbones and any other parts you can remove and dunk in a bucket then run under a tap, it's the business. Can't say it's ever gone on 100%. I always get fish eyes in the first coat but the second coat sorts that out.