Oil and other service stuff
Discussion
Right first off oil...
Now before anybody says anything the search isn't working (as per) so there we go. Also as the topic always attracts lots of opinion I couldn't see the harm in asking the question again! Car is a 4.0 so whats the best type of oil and also a resonable priced source?
Coolant
How much of a pain is it to bleed the system when it's refilled? Last car I did a coolant change on was a 6 pot BMW and I swear I never got all the air out, was a nighmare. As for coolant I guess any decent brand which is speciific for alloy blocks?
Cheers as always
Now before anybody says anything the search isn't working (as per) so there we go. Also as the topic always attracts lots of opinion I couldn't see the harm in asking the question again! Car is a 4.0 so whats the best type of oil and also a resonable priced source?
Coolant
How much of a pain is it to bleed the system when it's refilled? Last car I did a coolant change on was a 6 pot BMW and I swear I never got all the air out, was a nighmare. As for coolant I guess any decent brand which is speciific for alloy blocks?
Cheers as always
There are probably more opinions on oil than there are people on this forum. A good quality fully synthetic 5-50 would be a good start. I use Millers XFS.
Good quality a/f for alloy blocks also a good idea. I use the pink stuff. It's important not to mix types. There is a procedure for bleeding the cooling system in the Steve Heath 'bible' and if you follow that it's not too bad. Bleed screws are on the top of the rad offside and swirl pot. Don't expect the expansion tank to stay more than half full. Check the swirl pot regularly for a couple of weeks afterwards and top up as required.
Good quality a/f for alloy blocks also a good idea. I use the pink stuff. It's important not to mix types. There is a procedure for bleeding the cooling system in the Steve Heath 'bible' and if you follow that it's not too bad. Bleed screws are on the top of the rad offside and swirl pot. Don't expect the expansion tank to stay more than half full. Check the swirl pot regularly for a couple of weeks afterwards and top up as required.
I'm sure you'll get a load of opinions - - but my 2p's worth.
Oil: I believe the consensus is any good semi-synthetic 10-40 or 15-40 will be OK. The engine is, after all, a 50 year old design now. Most folks do an oil & Filter change twice a year in any event. I believe some people use a higher viscosity oil than the grade I've mentioned...but for a car used infrequently, something that flows quickly from cold makes sense.
Coolant: Again, a branded type is best. Most people drain & refill every 2 years, so the blue stuff is fine. Air is best purged by having the front of the car elevated. As per "The bible" fill through the swirl tank with the engine running and the pressure cap off the expansion tank, heater control set to hot. Fill until the level in the swirl pot remains steady and then top up the expansion tank to 'the usual' level - keep squeezing hoses until all air is out and the flow and return from the rad' have some temperature . Stop the engine, leave to cool for a bit then check coolant and top up. Run engine again until thermostat opens, shut down and check level in expansion tank....WILL BE UNDER PRESSURE.
Nick
Oil: I believe the consensus is any good semi-synthetic 10-40 or 15-40 will be OK. The engine is, after all, a 50 year old design now. Most folks do an oil & Filter change twice a year in any event. I believe some people use a higher viscosity oil than the grade I've mentioned...but for a car used infrequently, something that flows quickly from cold makes sense.
Coolant: Again, a branded type is best. Most people drain & refill every 2 years, so the blue stuff is fine. Air is best purged by having the front of the car elevated. As per "The bible" fill through the swirl tank with the engine running and the pressure cap off the expansion tank, heater control set to hot. Fill until the level in the swirl pot remains steady and then top up the expansion tank to 'the usual' level - keep squeezing hoses until all air is out and the flow and return from the rad' have some temperature . Stop the engine, leave to cool for a bit then check coolant and top up. Run engine again until thermostat opens, shut down and check level in expansion tank....WILL BE UNDER PRESSURE.
Nick
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