Another hamfisted attempt at auto engineering!!
Discussion
Stupid cutting out getting me down now! 
Engine keeps dying on me (no splutter, just x000 rpm to zero instantly) and happens at any time.
Okie dokie - cleaned the stepper (as stated previously) but problem is still occurring. Tonight on the way to work the car died again but would not restart for 20 mins (whereas it usually starts right away).
The next 2 things I have been told to try are:
1. Cleaning the connectors on the ecu (which I get to via the passenger footwell it looks like??) What do I do with them? rub them a bit with wet and dry if they look gammy? will the ecu reset if i do this? do i have to boil the engine (well, 90 degrees) to make the ecu reset when i plug it back in??
2. Clean/replace fuel filter. Um...hells teeth this looks like a nightmare job. As far as I can tell I need double jointed arms and the rear n/s wheel off? What does it look like? Will I be able to see the thing easily?
If someone could post a pic with arrows on it and labels (clean this bit you muppet for example) it might help
i have the bible here btw - if it's in here give me a page number someone!!
I hate my car at the moment and she just sits there wearing the same expression my ex wife wore in court, the smug biatch...
Engine keeps dying on me (no splutter, just x000 rpm to zero instantly) and happens at any time.
Okie dokie - cleaned the stepper (as stated previously) but problem is still occurring. Tonight on the way to work the car died again but would not restart for 20 mins (whereas it usually starts right away).
The next 2 things I have been told to try are:
1. Cleaning the connectors on the ecu (which I get to via the passenger footwell it looks like??) What do I do with them? rub them a bit with wet and dry if they look gammy? will the ecu reset if i do this? do i have to boil the engine (well, 90 degrees) to make the ecu reset when i plug it back in??
2. Clean/replace fuel filter. Um...hells teeth this looks like a nightmare job. As far as I can tell I need double jointed arms and the rear n/s wheel off? What does it look like? Will I be able to see the thing easily?
If someone could post a pic with arrows on it and labels (clean this bit you muppet for example) it might help
i have the bible here btw - if it's in here give me a page number someone!! I hate my car at the moment and she just sits there wearing the same expression my ex wife wore in court, the smug biatch...
As far as the ECU is concered, yes it is in the footwell, normally just floating around next to or on top of the battery. There are about 50ish pins on the ECU so cleaning each one with some wet'n'dry may be a bit time consuming. But unplug it and have a look, if any do look gammy then go ahead with the the W'n'D.
The ECU will reset (forgets everything after a few seconds of unplugging it) but this isn't a bad thing. Mines been unplugged more times than I remember and it's never suffered because of it. The ECU learns over time and continually adjusts itself. It may well be that a reset will sort some problems out!
Maybe get a diagnostic done on the ECU, take the motor to a TVR or Rover place and get them to plug the ECU into their little computer thingy. It will show up any faults with sensors etc.
If it's just cutting out suddenly sounds like an ignition problem. Maybe the ignition amplifier is on its way out (common problem apparently).
I'm sure people will post a load of other helpful stuff to, but right now thats what comes off the top of my head. I've never had any problems with my engine yet so it's not something I've had to delv into.
You'll get it sorted soon enough and before you know it you'll be burning around with a big cheesy grin again like the rest of us!!
Good luck mate.
>> Edited by dannyboyo on Sunday 18th July 10:37
The ECU will reset (forgets everything after a few seconds of unplugging it) but this isn't a bad thing. Mines been unplugged more times than I remember and it's never suffered because of it. The ECU learns over time and continually adjusts itself. It may well be that a reset will sort some problems out!
Maybe get a diagnostic done on the ECU, take the motor to a TVR or Rover place and get them to plug the ECU into their little computer thingy. It will show up any faults with sensors etc.
If it's just cutting out suddenly sounds like an ignition problem. Maybe the ignition amplifier is on its way out (common problem apparently).
I'm sure people will post a load of other helpful stuff to, but right now thats what comes off the top of my head. I've never had any problems with my engine yet so it's not something I've had to delv into.
You'll get it sorted soon enough and before you know it you'll be burning around with a big cheesy grin again like the rest of us!!
Good luck mate.
>> Edited by dannyboyo on Sunday 18th July 10:37
Hi Ant.
Obviously not going too well at the moment. Sounds a little like a problem I had at the end of last year and would sort of fit in with the fuel filter scenario. I would lose power for a few seconds then come back in again. It finally gave up the ghost one morning and I had to coast/be pushed into the works car park.
The problem turned out to be the fuel pump fuse, it had corroded so badly that it was not connecting properly at times and hence a fuel shortage. Whilst your in the passenger foot well there are two other things to check, the ful pump fuse and the relay. I can't remember which page of the bible they are on but as they sit in the loom rather than on the fuse board they can get bashed about a bit and very corroded if any water has been in the footwell. Most of the relays are the same so its worth getting a spare even if yours is OK (about £10 IIRC), and a replacement fuse is pence so it would not break the bank if it looks crappy.
I hope you get the car back on the road soon.
Bob
Obviously not going too well at the moment. Sounds a little like a problem I had at the end of last year and would sort of fit in with the fuel filter scenario. I would lose power for a few seconds then come back in again. It finally gave up the ghost one morning and I had to coast/be pushed into the works car park.
The problem turned out to be the fuel pump fuse, it had corroded so badly that it was not connecting properly at times and hence a fuel shortage. Whilst your in the passenger foot well there are two other things to check, the ful pump fuse and the relay. I can't remember which page of the bible they are on but as they sit in the loom rather than on the fuse board they can get bashed about a bit and very corroded if any water has been in the footwell. Most of the relays are the same so its worth getting a spare even if yours is OK (about £10 IIRC), and a replacement fuse is pence so it would not break the bank if it looks crappy.
I hope you get the car back on the road soon.
Bob
I had simil;air problem. Best thing first is to get a diagnostic test done, if it is a simple fault it will show up very quickly.
My problem turned out to be partly due to faulty fuel pedometer (replaced) and the ignition amplifier. the amplifier itself was ok, however due to the accumilation of crud it was not earthing correctly. After said crud was cleaned off I had no more problems.
Hot start problems can be caused by a variety of factors, fuel vapourisation etc etc. However my hot start problem / rough running seemed to be partly due to the valley gasket under the plenum not being replaced when the head gasket was done, and therefore causing induction problems.
Get the car to a good dealer, depends where in the country you are of course for the midlands I recommend Silverstone TVR.
My problem turned out to be partly due to faulty fuel pedometer (replaced) and the ignition amplifier. the amplifier itself was ok, however due to the accumilation of crud it was not earthing correctly. After said crud was cleaned off I had no more problems.
Hot start problems can be caused by a variety of factors, fuel vapourisation etc etc. However my hot start problem / rough running seemed to be partly due to the valley gasket under the plenum not being replaced when the head gasket was done, and therefore causing induction problems.
Get the car to a good dealer, depends where in the country you are of course for the midlands I recommend Silverstone TVR.
Fuel pump relays? Electrical connection in the ignition switch or somewhere on the engine such as coil low tension connections? Loose wire to fuel pump (can you hear it whirr when you try to restart?).
Certainly doesm't sound anything to do with the stepper motor if it cuts out when you're driving along.
Next time it happens call the AA/RAC/Green Flag. Even if it starts wait for them and get them to run a few diagnostics.
Certainly doesm't sound anything to do with the stepper motor if it cuts out when you're driving along.
Next time it happens call the AA/RAC/Green Flag. Even if it starts wait for them and get them to run a few diagnostics.
Same thing happened to mine. In my case it was a simple fix. Take out the cover in the passenger footwell to expose all the electrics. On mine there was a blade fuse holder that was just hanging loose. when I took the fuse out the connections were badly corroded. I fitted a new fuse holder from Halfords & I have had no problems since (touch wood!). Don't know what the fuse was for but it was the only one that was in a state.
Hope yours is as easy.
Pete
Hope yours is as easy.
Pete
I had the symptoms you describe, when it eventually wouldnt start at all, the aa man correctly diagnosed the ignition amplifier module, so i just assumed it had been going for a while.
£77 from Peninsula, easy fit, been fine since.
Could be almost anything else, of course... alhough i would have thought blocked fuel filter would cause some spluttering, not a "suuden death"?
£77 from Peninsula, easy fit, been fine since.
Could be almost anything else, of course... alhough i would have thought blocked fuel filter would cause some spluttering, not a "suuden death"?
OK! Time to look like a total sap!
Poorpeet - is this the fuse you mean? I took it out and when I turned the ignition on i didn't get that purring noise so I guess this is the fuel pump fuse?
When I took the fuse out one side was shiny the other was dull and pitted looking - would this be enough to make it stop working every so often? (The other side of the blade is worse actually...)
Sorry to flood with pics btw - I'm sure it's not allowed. Oh yes - please see my other thread entitled "where the heck is my ecu!!"
Poorpeet - is this the fuse you mean? I took it out and when I turned the ignition on i didn't get that purring noise so I guess this is the fuel pump fuse?
When I took the fuse out one side was shiny the other was dull and pitted looking - would this be enough to make it stop working every so often? (The other side of the blade is worse actually...)
Sorry to flood with pics btw - I'm sure it's not allowed. Oh yes - please see my other thread entitled "where the heck is my ecu!!"
We had a problem like this on my wife's car, just stopped when it felt like it with no pattern. It turned that the contacts on the ignition switch were scorched. Was a cheap part to fix, but took an expert to find. Rather than banging your head against a wall, it might be worth admiting defeat and visiting your local tiv expert.
Good luck,
Steve.
Good luck,
Steve.
Had the same problem recently with the Griff. It would stop at idle then the hot start problem meant it left me stranded for a while.
After much head scratching it turned out to be the amplifier/coil that had gone belly up.
Seems fine now - I was stuck in a traffic jam for over an hour yesterday & it ran like a dream.
Good luck
Nick
After much head scratching it turned out to be the amplifier/coil that had gone belly up.
Seems fine now - I was stuck in a traffic jam for over an hour yesterday & it ran like a dream.
Good luck
Nick
Anthony - I couldn't work out the age of your Chim.
However if it has a shiny black coil marked "Coil 220 Electronic", then it is a prime suspect. The people who make them are so proud of them that they don't put either their name, or the country of origin on them.
A favourite prank of these fusking coils is to leak out all the oil that cools them. They work fine for a while, then break down when they get hot.
Normally the oil leaks out around the front of the coil, where the orangey nose is crimped into the metal case. Sometimes you can see oil inside the rubber boot if you pull out the main plug lead (king lead). Then again it may have already leaked it's oil long ago...
If you want a better one then you can get a Bosch item from Tim Lamont at ACT. I've only ever seen one dodgy Bosch coil, whereas I have binned dozens of the kak ones.
You can get an idea if the problem is ignition by watching the tacho when it cuts out. If the tacho drops like a stone to zero (whilst the engine is stilll turning), then it is a low-tension ignition fault. If the tacho keeps reading, then it may be a fuelling fault.
Keep us posted!
However if it has a shiny black coil marked "Coil 220 Electronic", then it is a prime suspect. The people who make them are so proud of them that they don't put either their name, or the country of origin on them.
A favourite prank of these fusking coils is to leak out all the oil that cools them. They work fine for a while, then break down when they get hot.
Normally the oil leaks out around the front of the coil, where the orangey nose is crimped into the metal case. Sometimes you can see oil inside the rubber boot if you pull out the main plug lead (king lead). Then again it may have already leaked it's oil long ago...
If you want a better one then you can get a Bosch item from Tim Lamont at ACT. I've only ever seen one dodgy Bosch coil, whereas I have binned dozens of the kak ones.
You can get an idea if the problem is ignition by watching the tacho when it cuts out. If the tacho drops like a stone to zero (whilst the engine is stilll turning), then it is a low-tension ignition fault. If the tacho keeps reading, then it may be a fuelling fault.
Keep us posted!
Just to add to the possibilities I had a similar (actually the SAME) problem a year ago. Search for "cutting out". Mine was totally intermittant and without warning. Sometimes would restart straight away, sometimes had to wait 30 mins. Without going over all the things I tried, it turned out to be poor contacts in the harness plug to the ign. amplifier. They were very pitted indicating poor contact. Had the terminals replaced in the housing and et viola No More Problem!
Worth checking.
Worth checking.
Mark Adams said:
You can get an idea if the problem is ignition by watching the tacho when it cuts out. If the tacho drops like a stone to zero (whilst the engine is stilll turning), then it is a low-tension ignition fault.
Yes - that's exactly what it does! So the sudden drop to zero suggests electrics, rather than fuel? I'll check it out!
Please excuse my ignorance BTW! (I actually had to look up what the coil looked like as I had no idea
)
OK checked the amplifier, which looked ok with no obvious corrosion. Also checked the coil but again, could see nothing obvious. The 2 terminals either side of the HT lead thingy looked a bit corroded but they looked corroded together with the contact bits if you see what I mean?
The orange end of the coil was dirty however, covered with a film that was easy to wipe off - is this the oil that leaks out if they break?
Anyway - car won't start now (bugger) turns over fast but won't fire. Could the coil have now just "gone"??
Luckily I have some fluoxetine left...
The orange end of the coil was dirty however, covered with a film that was easy to wipe off - is this the oil that leaks out if they break?
Anyway - car won't start now (bugger) turns over fast but won't fire. Could the coil have now just "gone"??
Luckily I have some fluoxetine left...
Yep, sounds like it could be it. This is how they usually fail - Mark Adams mentioned this below. To be sure, pull the lead from the coil off at the dizzy and hold it close to the exhaust manifold. You may need to peel back the rubber boot - hold the contact about 5mm away, or lay the cable on it's side. Then turn it over on the key (you may need a third hand for this). You should see (and hear) a fat spark jump from the contact to the manifold. If you don't you need a new coil. I just happen to have a spare coil, if you were nearer...........!
What are you going to do with that toothpaste?
What are you going to do with that toothpaste?
Um ok...I want to make sure I did the right thing to test it. Firstly the coil is a Bosch one already...does that make any difference??
OK. I took the central HT lead from the top of the distributor cap (which, thanks to Rog I could actually identify!!) I peeled back the wire and touched it onto one on those ramshorn things that comes from the exhaust manifold (it's part of the exhaust but is in front of the engine??)
Anyhoo - when my beautiful assistant cranked the car no spark came out. So this means that either the coil or the HT lead is duff yes??
Or more worrying the ramshorn exhaust thingy doesn't make it spark anyway (I couldn't get the lead to touch the manifold itself
)
One more question!! I have a 3.9 V8 Discovery as a runaround - could I try the coil from that just to test it, or the HT lead, or will I bugger something up if I try that??
Thanks for all the help so far - this would be kinda fun and interesting if I wasn't stuck at work right now
OK. I took the central HT lead from the top of the distributor cap (which, thanks to Rog I could actually identify!!) I peeled back the wire and touched it onto one on those ramshorn things that comes from the exhaust manifold (it's part of the exhaust but is in front of the engine??)
Anyhoo - when my beautiful assistant cranked the car no spark came out. So this means that either the coil or the HT lead is duff yes??
Or more worrying the ramshorn exhaust thingy doesn't make it spark anyway (I couldn't get the lead to touch the manifold itself
) One more question!! I have a 3.9 V8 Discovery as a runaround - could I try the coil from that just to test it, or the HT lead, or will I bugger something up if I try that??
Thanks for all the help so far - this would be kinda fun and interesting if I wasn't stuck at work right now
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