gearbox oil and door mirror
Discussion
any recommendations on what gearbox oil to put in when i change it.also i was going to take my mirrors off to get them sprayed looked at the bible and can see what to do but can't seem to move the cover that hides the grub screw without ending up spraying the door as well because i've slipped with a screwdriver any tips thanks.
It's hard to tell from your profile but it looks like you have a later car (94/5 on), all of which benefited from the newer the Borg Warner T5 box.
The oil specified for the T5 gearbox is actually automatic transmission fluid, but there is an ongoing debate over this.
The use of ATF may seem odd, but there are a number of reasons Borg Warner specified it.
ATF can provide less baulky gear engagement from cold, it was also selected to help justify MPG claims as it provides less drag than a traditional gear oil.
Gearboxes ideally need a heavier hypoid type oil with extreme pressure additives designed to work with helical gear sets.
When the T5 box was designed gearbox oils also contained corrosive sulphurs (& often still do) that will attack & eventually destroy the brass synchro rings in the T5.
Borg Warner knew about the corrosion problem so specified ATF, surprisingly it worked very well.
Newer synthetic gearbox oils solve this problem as they contain no corrosive sulphur, in theory they should also provide better helical gear protection than ATF.
All this was explained to me by my clients at the Pangbourne Castrol Technology Centre when I put the T5 oil question to them.
A good example of a fully synthetic gearbox oil suitable for the T5 box is Red Line MT-90, being 75w90 grade & safe on brass synchros you could argue it's the best of both worlds.
However, give it 10 minutes and someone will be along to tell you all the above is complete BS and you should only use ATF.
It's certainly true that there a thousands of T5s out there that have completed well over 100,000 miles on an exclusive diet of ATF.
So in the end the choice between ATF & fully synthetic gearbox oil is a personal one, the only certainty is that you must not use a traditional sulphur heavy gearbox oil.
Personally ATF just seems too light for gearbox loads to me, but the ATF fans are quite right to quote those high mileage T5s that have never used anything but ATF.
Your choice
The oil specified for the T5 gearbox is actually automatic transmission fluid, but there is an ongoing debate over this.
The use of ATF may seem odd, but there are a number of reasons Borg Warner specified it.
ATF can provide less baulky gear engagement from cold, it was also selected to help justify MPG claims as it provides less drag than a traditional gear oil.
Gearboxes ideally need a heavier hypoid type oil with extreme pressure additives designed to work with helical gear sets.
When the T5 box was designed gearbox oils also contained corrosive sulphurs (& often still do) that will attack & eventually destroy the brass synchro rings in the T5.
Borg Warner knew about the corrosion problem so specified ATF, surprisingly it worked very well.
Newer synthetic gearbox oils solve this problem as they contain no corrosive sulphur, in theory they should also provide better helical gear protection than ATF.
All this was explained to me by my clients at the Pangbourne Castrol Technology Centre when I put the T5 oil question to them.
A good example of a fully synthetic gearbox oil suitable for the T5 box is Red Line MT-90, being 75w90 grade & safe on brass synchros you could argue it's the best of both worlds.
However, give it 10 minutes and someone will be along to tell you all the above is complete BS and you should only use ATF.
It's certainly true that there a thousands of T5s out there that have completed well over 100,000 miles on an exclusive diet of ATF.
So in the end the choice between ATF & fully synthetic gearbox oil is a personal one, the only certainty is that you must not use a traditional sulphur heavy gearbox oil.
Personally ATF just seems too light for gearbox loads to me, but the ATF fans are quite right to quote those high mileage T5s that have never used anything but ATF.
Your choice
Edited by ChimpanLucky on Sunday 25th March 22:15
OleVix said:
Im doing my BTR diff and engine too now... what oil for diff? Semisynthetic or mineral on the engine?
I have the early diff GKN but i use the oil used for the BTR ,its a better spec.75w140 gear oil or
80w140 gear oil
I use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Redline-80W140-Gearbox-O...
or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Royal-Purple-Max-Gear-75...
If money is no object i would go for 10 or 15 w60 fully synthetic but i use mineral bacause i change the oil every 3000 miles
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-15w-60-CFS-...
I use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valvoline-VR1-Racing-Min...
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Sunday 25th March 23:20
SILICONEKID340HP said:
I have the early diff GKN but i use the oil used for the BTR ,its a better spec.
75w140 gear oil or
80w140 gear oil
I use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Redline-80W140-Gearbox-O...
or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Royal-Purple-Max-Gear-75...
If money is no object i would go for 10 or 15 w60 fully synthetic but i use mineral bacause i change the oil every 3000 miles
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-15w-60-CFS-...
I use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valvoline-VR1-Racing-Min...
Thanx Daz 75w140 gear oil or
80w140 gear oil
I use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Redline-80W140-Gearbox-O...
or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Royal-Purple-Max-Gear-75...
If money is no object i would go for 10 or 15 w60 fully synthetic but i use mineral bacause i change the oil every 3000 miles
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-15w-60-CFS-...
I use this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valvoline-VR1-Racing-Min...
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Sunday 25th March 23:20
Didn't quinny remove all his tvr related vids?
I use Syntrax and it has proved to be all that was claimed when this was raised some while ago.
Coupled with new linkage nylon bushes and a greased linkage rod this has given me a very slick and relatively light shift!
I believe this is the kiddy;
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/150775829378?var=lv...
I use Syntrax and it has proved to be all that was claimed when this was raised some while ago.
Coupled with new linkage nylon bushes and a greased linkage rod this has given me a very slick and relatively light shift!
I believe this is the kiddy;
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/150775829378?var=lv...
AJV8 said:
Does anyone know which oil is best to use with the old box as i'm going to be doing mine in the next few weeks !
AJ
By old box i presume you mean the Rover Lt77. Do a search on it as there is masses of info regarding oil. In a nutshell though you could read for a week and not get a definitive answer. Some favour ATF, some Castrol SMX or its now newer equivalent, and some fully synthetic engine oil like Mobil 1 0w40. AJ
I have this box and i have tried all 3. I found the best, as in nicest change to be the Mobil 1, fully synthetic engine oil. That is what i am running in mine.
carsy said:
By old box i presume you mean the Rover Lt77. Do a search on it as there is masses of info regarding oil. In a nutshell though you could read for a week and not get a definitive answer. Some favour ATF, some Castrol SMX or its now newer equivalent, and some fully synthetic engine oil like Mobil 1 0w40.
I have this box and i have tried all 3. I found the best, as in nicest change to be the Mobil 1, fully synthetic engine oil. That is what i am running in mine.
Carsy, I have this box and i have tried all 3. I found the best, as in nicest change to be the Mobil 1, fully synthetic engine oil. That is what i am running in mine.
Yea i meant the Lt77. I just presumed the search wouldn't have been working but am shocked to see that it is. I will try with the Mobil though. At the moment it's like pulling it through syrup until it all warms up, not sure if that's normal or not? I'm thinking about doing the linkage as well though and hopefully that will help it somewhat.
AJ
Expose the top by removal of the center consul, disconnect the 2 bolts that bolt the remote to the box, carefully slide out the nylon sleeves and remove the nylon thrust washers and slide out the remote linkage.
Grease the sliding rod, replace nylon bits as necessary, (Clev Trev stocks these) and reassemble.
Grease the sliding rod, replace nylon bits as necessary, (Clev Trev stocks these) and reassemble.
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