failed mot on handbrake
Discussion
You need more than 2/3 clicks on the lever for the lever to actuate the adjusters (p.174/175 in 'the bible'). My car had the same problem as yours but slackenng the cable to allow 4/5 clicks got me through the MOT. Applying pressure to the footbrake at the same time as setting the handbrake also seems to help.
The cable adjuster is buried in the chassis and can be accessed by removing the o/s rear wheel. Look for the two white nylon adjusters on the cable. Screw the adjusters towards the rear of the car to slacken handbrake lever. Make sure you do this with the handbrake off.
The cable adjuster is buried in the chassis and can be accessed by removing the o/s rear wheel. Look for the two white nylon adjusters on the cable. Screw the adjusters towards the rear of the car to slacken handbrake lever. Make sure you do this with the handbrake off.
Edited by Hedgehopper on Thursday 24th May 10:44
TV8 said:
How did they test it?
^^^^^This would be my question, and by the 8% results tou stated I guess they roller brake,tested it, which is a no no on these, cars,with a LSD fitted. They are never great from new but I found that by fully slackening off the hand brake adjuster, pressing the brake pedal many times to ensure the self adjusting calipers are fully wound equally, then re adjusting the cable so that 4 or so clicks can be achieved with the footbrake applied it holds the car very well, just my experience though.
Mine passes the handbrake test no problem with the electronic Taplow meter they now employ instead of roller testing it, my Subaru gets tested the same for the same reason.
2-3 Clicks is not enough to get the self adjusting calipers to work, you need to slacken off the cable.
The adjustment point on the cable is up on the top chassis frame some where near the front of the diff and suspension arms points, try either under neath or via wheel arch. Adjuster is just twisted to slacken or thighten was quite tough to move tho.
The adjustment point on the cable is up on the top chassis frame some where near the front of the diff and suspension arms points, try either under neath or via wheel arch. Adjuster is just twisted to slacken or thighten was quite tough to move tho.
Edited by chrispitman on Thursday 24th May 16:34
It may be that your handbrake is OK, but they're very difficult to fully ratchet up, i.e. need to get the right leverage. It's possible the tester just couldn't pull the last click on it... Has happened to me. Just recently I had it on the ramps at the local tyre place, guy couldn't get the handbrake to hold. After a couple of words in his ear he braced himself up a bit, gave it a more manly pull and it was fine 
Had mine tested last week.
Because of the LSD, the guy had a meter thingy that he placed on the floor and we went for a spin.
Braked firmly with foot pedal, instant pass, repeated with handbrake, (that would have slowed it down by about Preston!) as we have lovely long footwells, I gently squeezed the brake out of sight at the same time as pulling the lever.
Result, another pass!
Because of the LSD, the guy had a meter thingy that he placed on the floor and we went for a spin.
Braked firmly with foot pedal, instant pass, repeated with handbrake, (that would have slowed it down by about Preston!) as we have lovely long footwells, I gently squeezed the brake out of sight at the same time as pulling the lever.
Result, another pass!
rigga said:
Shouldnt hold one wheel stationaey and rotate the other with a LSD rear axle,not good for it from what i gather,so roadtest with a meter to measure braking force is used,used to be a big old metal guage thing,but now its a hand held gizmo that does the same job.
That's what my tester said, his was a big ol metal thing!
k off !chrispitman said:
2-3 Clicks is not enough to get the self adjusting calipers to work, you need to slacken off the cable.
If there is not enough slack in the cable the mechanisim in the caliper will not self adjust. It works by the hand brake leaver on the caliper being in its off position, then when the foot brake is applied the internal ratchet can move and adjust the pads to the correct position. If the brake leaver on the caliper is NOT in its off position then the ratchet won't adjust, and so the hand brake will never work properly. rigga said:
Shouldnt hold one wheel stationaey and rotate the other with a LSD rear axle,not good for it from what i gather,so roadtest with a meter to measure braking force is used,used to be a big old metal guage thing,but now its a hand held gizmo that does the same job.
?? How does that work on the road then?.. say you spin up one wheel on ice whilst the other is still?... would the LSD stop you doing this?.. mine has always gone on the rollers??.. 
TVR Beaver said:
How does that work on the road then?.. say you spin up one wheel on ice whilst the other is still?... would the LSD stop you doing this?.. mine has always gone on the rollers??..
Yes, whith one wheel on ice it will spin a little bit and the diff will lock and the power will go to both wheels.The difference with the rollers is that the diff is not being driven by the prop shaft but buy the wheels, with some force, which does the diff no good at all.
occasionaluse said:
Well it passed - slackened of the cable (thanks for that tip) - still only 16% but better than the 8 it failed on.
I noticed the diff was leaking whilst doing it - need to work out where from - grrr.
I found out they used rollers BTW - bugger - how do i check for damage form that?
I just show my MOT man a block of wood in the boot ,he then OK`s it I noticed the diff was leaking whilst doing it - need to work out where from - grrr.
I found out they used rollers BTW - bugger - how do i check for damage form that?
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