Tips for changing engine mounts

[Pozzy]

I have two shiny new mounts in my possession ready to be fitted, but I was just wondering if anyone had any tips for doing the job e.g. jacking point for engine, whether to do one side first etc.?

I have slight worries about bending the sump, so would jacking up the front pulley cover be better?

[hiltonig]

front pully bit of wood underneath as a packer will do, dont do the sump !!

[haircutmike]

Wheels off and most work is done through the arches.

17mm ratchet spanner for the hidden nuts in the mounts and 17mm on the main bolts to chassis iirc.

[TVR Beaver]

Push the engine up so you get a good clearance on the top tubes to manifolds when you release it again... ... It will have sagged over time on the old mounts...

[Simon says]

Release both mountings at the same time then jack the engine up to clear the mounting studs (you may need to jiggle a little to get them out) a word of warning make sure the bonnet is open otherwise if you get over zealous with the jacking you may stick the plenum into the bonnet result.... stress cracks or worse, when you let the engine back down onto the new mountings then centre the engine into the chassis so you get get a fore finger approx between the chassis and the pre-cat part of the manifold both sides then nip up the bolts and re-check, as there is a surprising amount of movement for error, also check the engine mounting bracket bolts to block for tightness (3 each side) I have done this job four times now on different cars and everyone as had the top smaller bolt loose if that's the case I suggest changing the spring washers and a bit of thread lock (non hard setting)

Edited by Simon says on Tuesday 29th May 14:31

[Pozzy]

Thanks very much for the advice gents, will have a bash at this at the weekend I think!