Running Much Better Now
Discussion
I am not going to report anything that is not already in the bible, but symptoms and cures might help someone out there.
Oil Pressure Problems
Have had spurious readings showing on the oil pressure gauge for a few weeks. Oil light goes out instantly, but pressure shown varied from zero to normal levels (around 50 lbs/in2). Sometimes oil pressure gauge would take upwards of one minute to even appear when starting from cold. Oil pressure would also drop to zero whilst driving along? Sometimes once a normal pressure reading had been achieved it would then work normally.
Checked all easy accessible wiring, earthing points etc with no improvement. Decided to "gamble" on buying a new oil pressure sender (cost £45 approx) Result was an instant cure. Oil pressure gauge now reads correctly, shows pressure climbing immediately on start.
One word of warning however is that the thread of the sender is tapered and did not produce a good oil tight seal on first assembly. Oil therefore leaked out onto sump and surrounding areas. Re-fitted sender with PTFE tape around the thread which seems to have worked. Lastly, removing the sender allows oil to run out, so a lump of blue-tak comes in very handy!
Oil Leaks from Sump
Cured a small oil leak at same time as above by removing the sump, cleaning up all surfaces and re-assembling using a cork sump gasket. (Recommended by someone on here - so thanks) This seems to have done the trick, apart from the scare when the oil sender failed to seal. Obtained sump gasket from trade spares outlet at a cost of £4.80
Engine Temperature Sender
Replaced at a cost of £9 a few days before any of the above and noticed an instant improvement in the smoothness of running.
Coil
Whilst working on the engine I disconnected the HT lead from the coil and found traces of brown oil in the connector. The coil was the orange nosed standard Landrover part much criticised by many on here. I have now replaced the coil with a BOSCH unit (as per reference in bible) at a cost of £47.
The engine now runs the best it ever has and pulls like a train particularly at higher revs. Will also do 30mph in 5th without much complaint - however I still use 4th to keep revs a little higher. Engine performance on hot days is also much improved.
The point is, all this work was needed on a 3+ years old Chimeara 4.5 that has done less than 14,000 miles from new. The car has also been serviced annually by a well known franchised dealer? So it may be worth you checking through these points on your own car.
Incidentally, I did all the work including an oil & filter change in my garage using a pair of car ramps + planks.
Oil Pressure Problems
Have had spurious readings showing on the oil pressure gauge for a few weeks. Oil light goes out instantly, but pressure shown varied from zero to normal levels (around 50 lbs/in2). Sometimes oil pressure gauge would take upwards of one minute to even appear when starting from cold. Oil pressure would also drop to zero whilst driving along? Sometimes once a normal pressure reading had been achieved it would then work normally.
Checked all easy accessible wiring, earthing points etc with no improvement. Decided to "gamble" on buying a new oil pressure sender (cost £45 approx) Result was an instant cure. Oil pressure gauge now reads correctly, shows pressure climbing immediately on start.
One word of warning however is that the thread of the sender is tapered and did not produce a good oil tight seal on first assembly. Oil therefore leaked out onto sump and surrounding areas. Re-fitted sender with PTFE tape around the thread which seems to have worked. Lastly, removing the sender allows oil to run out, so a lump of blue-tak comes in very handy!
Oil Leaks from Sump
Cured a small oil leak at same time as above by removing the sump, cleaning up all surfaces and re-assembling using a cork sump gasket. (Recommended by someone on here - so thanks) This seems to have done the trick, apart from the scare when the oil sender failed to seal. Obtained sump gasket from trade spares outlet at a cost of £4.80
Engine Temperature Sender
Replaced at a cost of £9 a few days before any of the above and noticed an instant improvement in the smoothness of running.
Coil
Whilst working on the engine I disconnected the HT lead from the coil and found traces of brown oil in the connector. The coil was the orange nosed standard Landrover part much criticised by many on here. I have now replaced the coil with a BOSCH unit (as per reference in bible) at a cost of £47.
The engine now runs the best it ever has and pulls like a train particularly at higher revs. Will also do 30mph in 5th without much complaint - however I still use 4th to keep revs a little higher. Engine performance on hot days is also much improved.
The point is, all this work was needed on a 3+ years old Chimeara 4.5 that has done less than 14,000 miles from new. The car has also been serviced annually by a well known franchised dealer? So it may be worth you checking through these points on your own car.
Incidentally, I did all the work including an oil & filter change in my garage using a pair of car ramps + planks.
The TVR Griffith and Chimaera. 2nd Edition by the Reverend Steve Heath. (www.tvrbooks.co.uk)
Peterc said:
The point is, all this work was needed on a 3+ years old Chimeara 4.5 that has done less than 14,000 miles from new. The car has also been serviced annually by a well known franchised dealer? So it may be worth you checking through these points on your own car.
Mine was similar, despite a full TVR dealer service history. I'd add to the list that the power steering fluid was black & opaque. I flushed it through with 3 changes and it's OK now. Surely a main dealer should do these kinds of things?
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