Is a service history still important?
Discussion
With chimaeras changing hands as much as they do, is a full svc history still important. Or is a recent history still fine, say 4-5 years.
I've just been looking at a friends 500 chim that has had a full body off chassis refurb and mechanicly and cosmeticly is perfect, it's done over 90k but has only 5 years history. He's not that fussed as he's going to keep it for many years but if he was to sell it in two or three years would it sell easily or not at all.
There's always people talking about only buying a tvr with fsh but on cars that are coming up to 15+ years old issues with a car from 6 years ago theoretically should have been fix.
So what do you think, is it still important or does it depend on the car?
I've just been looking at a friends 500 chim that has had a full body off chassis refurb and mechanicly and cosmeticly is perfect, it's done over 90k but has only 5 years history. He's not that fussed as he's going to keep it for many years but if he was to sell it in two or three years would it sell easily or not at all.
There's always people talking about only buying a tvr with fsh but on cars that are coming up to 15+ years old issues with a car from 6 years ago theoretically should have been fix.
So what do you think, is it still important or does it depend on the car?
I think the bigger the collection of bills, service stamps etc the better.
If the car's had a full body off and mechanical refurb then it should have the bills and/or the photographic evidence to prove the work has been done and to a good standard by someone competent, if it doesn't then it's not going to cammand the same value as one with more history imo.
If the car's had a full body off and mechanical refurb then it should have the bills and/or the photographic evidence to prove the work has been done and to a good standard by someone competent, if it doesn't then it's not going to cammand the same value as one with more history imo.
The service can only be as good as the bloke who's done it. I've experienced in the past 'some' good and a lot bad. Actually the worst ever was by the factory when they did my T350 [thought it best place to take it] and they filled the oil tank to the brim causing me to chuck VERY LARGE clouds of blue smoke from the exhaust in anything hinting a left hand bend as it filled the air-box. Then they still tried to bulls
t me!!
and we wonder how they went tits up 
Condition is king and a mechanically sympathetic owner helps too. For me a stamp in a book means very little I'm afraid unless I know who's done it, but reassuring to many.
t me!!
and we wonder how they went tits up 
Condition is king and a mechanically sympathetic owner helps too. For me a stamp in a book means very little I'm afraid unless I know who's done it, but reassuring to many.
Edited by macdeb on Friday 8th June 18:25
I take the view that on a car this old service history is not vital as long as you know what has been done recently and you can inspect the car with something of an experienced eye.
Not a TVR but I am about to buy a 24 year old car the service history is missing, but its being inspected by a marque expert and I will have all the jobs he highlights done.
I have more peace of mind if I have had the work done as that way I know what has been done, what parts have been used etc
Not a TVR but I am about to buy a 24 year old car the service history is missing, but its being inspected by a marque expert and I will have all the jobs he highlights done.
I have more peace of mind if I have had the work done as that way I know what has been done, what parts have been used etc
I personally wouldnt give two hoots about service history. If everything looks and sounds good it is most likely ok. These are pretty basic cars.
I would rather buy a car that has been looked after by an enthusiastic diy`er with no stamps in the book than one full of stamps by a garage. There are some good garages out there but equally there are lots out there that will cut corners and do a bad job. The diy`er will have more than likely have gone way ott with serviceable items and attended to everyhting that needed attention and more importantly, because it is their own car, taken their time and done it right.
I would rather buy a car that has been looked after by an enthusiastic diy`er with no stamps in the book than one full of stamps by a garage. There are some good garages out there but equally there are lots out there that will cut corners and do a bad job. The diy`er will have more than likely have gone way ott with serviceable items and attended to everyhting that needed attention and more importantly, because it is their own car, taken their time and done it right.
My car had a fully stamped up book before I got it... but it did need things doing... I pulled the body off and gave it the full works...
No garage would have done that so as far as changing oil goes it was sound... but who can afford the detailed work and hours spent keeting these things 100% by paying a garage to do it....
It's not had a stamp since (but I did struggle with that a tad)... but I've got to say, it's condition now is better than new in all areas
Go on condition (not just cosmetics either)...
No garage would have done that so as far as changing oil goes it was sound... but who can afford the detailed work and hours spent keeting these things 100% by paying a garage to do it....
It's not had a stamp since (but I did struggle with that a tad)... but I've got to say, it's condition now is better than new in all areas

Go on condition (not just cosmetics either)...
I feel a bit trapped in the service-stamp upkeep thing. The car owes me a lot on purchace price, (Fernies prices), so I reluctantly hand it over to specialists once a year and get a bit raped. I would far rather do it all myself, at least upto my spannering limits anyway. On reflection, I should have picked up a £10-12k car with more miles on, so I could relax about condition, specialist history and mileage racking up.Live and learn.
As a few have said, a car cherished and maintained by someone like quinny, clive f or spendy would be my preferred choice, bugger the dealer stamps.
However, as I'm an incompetent and don't know one end of a spanner from the other I spent a few bob on recognised, experienced mechs. Belt and braces approach with that too though as I'd swap between two to ensure every base was covered and one may catch what the previous one missed.
Stamps and bills are nice, but not a requirement IMO. Photos of chassis work etc essential. S6 rebuild/replacement I'd expect fully documented and warrantied.
However, as I'm an incompetent and don't know one end of a spanner from the other I spent a few bob on recognised, experienced mechs. Belt and braces approach with that too though as I'd swap between two to ensure every base was covered and one may catch what the previous one missed.
Stamps and bills are nice, but not a requirement IMO. Photos of chassis work etc essential. S6 rebuild/replacement I'd expect fully documented and warrantied.
IMHO I believe a stamped and well receipted vehicle will be more attractive to new buyers and can sell at a premium to a non stamped un receipted one. I personally would pay that little bit more for that knowledge of knowing that if the car has gone through the servicing procedure of a regular service then that is a bonus and should be in good condition rather than a sporadic history with half the book missing.
It's a bit like reading a book and then finding out half the pages have been ripped out.
But I have seen on one occasion on a tvr where the car had been maintained by a well reputable tvr garage throughout it's 15 years and had been stamped and receipted.
The outriggers on the bottom were very good but on top there was hardly no steel left! How they never noticed it's unbeknown.
It's a bit like reading a book and then finding out half the pages have been ripped out.
But I have seen on one occasion on a tvr where the car had been maintained by a well reputable tvr garage throughout it's 15 years and had been stamped and receipted.
The outriggers on the bottom were very good but on top there was hardly no steel left! How they never noticed it's unbeknown.
I keep a history file, but its all work i have done myself, it helps me to remember what spec and when things might need renewing, so far it reads as such, but its not main dealer etc..
March 2007
Mileage 48500
Full body off chassis restoration
Inc new outriggers and complete poly bush throughout
New rear Protech shocks
LS1 383 engine conversion
New TKO 600 Gearbox LS1 clutch assembly
New custom headers and exhaust system
All oils inc diff renewed
Engine spec-
383 stroker
Flowed 853 spec heads
222/224 camshaft
Probe pistons
4” crank
Dyno @ 480bhp crank rating (Emerald)
May 2007
Mileage 49500
Oil Change
5ltrs GM 5/40w engine oil
July 2007
Hi ratio 1.85 Comp Rockers fitted
Replace broken Driveshaft
November 2007
New Dart 225cc performance cylinder heads fitted
Hardened push rods (Comp Cam)
Feb 2008
Custom grind 233/237 Camshaft fitted
Upgraded Dual .650 Valve springs
3.08 Diff conversion
Close ratio 5th gear fitted
Dyno @539bhp crank rating (Emerald)
May 2008
New Door control Box
New SPA oil/water gauge fitted
June 2008 mileage 57000
New Engine 416ci
New 2008 LS3 Block (4.070 bore)
New Mahle pistons machined with 5cc valve relieves
Dart 225cc heads valves unshrouded, bore matched and combustion chambers taken out to 65cc from 62cc, polished and ported intake/exhaust runners, combustion ratio 11.5:1.
Valves lapped in.
New Callies Compstar connecting rods 6.125”.
Existing 4.00” crank reused new journal grind and rebalanced for new rods and pistons.
New hydraulic camshaft followers (LS7).
New main bearings.
New Big Ends.
New LS7 complete clutch, balanced to crankshaft assembly.
New LS7 head gaskets.
Nick Williams 90mm Throttle body
Ported LS2 intake.
Manual Billet Katech Belt tensioner.
New Rear 18” wheel
New ITG air filter
Gear box oil replaced
New oil/filter.
Rad recore
576/576 Bhp/lbsft (Emerald)
June 2008 Mileage 57500
New oil/filter GM 5/30 Semi Synthetic.
Sept 2008 58000miles
Rear shocks refurbished under warranty
New rear Diff mount, custom made Heavy Duty.
New AP racing Pads 58800 miles
Oct 2008 59100 Miles
New AP racing CP5200 6 bolt Callipers
New Ferodo DS2500 Pads front and rear
New Discs AP Racing floating 343mm
New AP racing bells
New AP racing buttons
New Braided Hoses
Motul 660 Racing brake fluid
December 2008 60100 miles
New Thunder Racing Ported FAST 92mm inlet manifold
New 42lb uprated injectors
New 244/257 bespoke camshaft
New Edlebrock two piece timing cover
New Fully synthetic GM 5/40w oil
Dyno @TVR Power 513bhp (+70bhp) at the rear wheels
Carbone Lorraine RC5plus brake pads all round
Jan 2009 60200 miles
New Complete set of Nitron bespoke shocks fitted
March 2009 approx 61000
Oil change Morrison 5/50w fully synthetic race oil
New Recon steering rack fitted
April 2009
New rear discs (Cryogenic treatment)
July 2009 approx 62500
New Race proved uprated drive shafts
Dec 2009 approx 64000 miles
Gearbox removed due to 3rd gear crunching during fast changes.
All new blocker rings, and 3rd gear syncro replaced.
Fault found to be shifter fork pads, rebuilt with upgraded bronze items replacing nylon pads.
New gear box oil.
Diff seal replaced.
Clean and re oil chassis
Anti bump steer kit fitted
Clutch fluid renewed, Carbone Lorraine race fluid 325C
MOT
May 2010
Kinsler ITB’s
From Mosler GT car complete with MOPAR injectors
Bespoke airbox and bonnet bulge
2011
Uprated Motorsport Crown/Pinion 3.08 ratio
538rwhp/504lbsft torque
2x new improved Drive shafts (Raceproved)
202mph Bruntingthorpe (Data logged)
10.92/132.6mph Santa Pod (June)
June2011
New valve guide seals
Front Discs and Pads CL RC5
Rear Pads CL RC5
New fluid CL 325C (Brakes)
July 2011
New ITG panel filter air box lid
Mac propshaft Drive shafts
Jan 2012
Setrab oil cooler
Braided hoses
Heads upgraded and valve guides replaced
New seals
New big end bearings (clevite race spec)
New Comp dual valve springs (installed height)
Porting to match throttle bodies
New Bespoke Cobra seats
Oil and filter/ new anti freeze
March 2007
Mileage 48500
Full body off chassis restoration
Inc new outriggers and complete poly bush throughout
New rear Protech shocks
LS1 383 engine conversion
New TKO 600 Gearbox LS1 clutch assembly
New custom headers and exhaust system
All oils inc diff renewed
Engine spec-
383 stroker
Flowed 853 spec heads
222/224 camshaft
Probe pistons
4” crank
Dyno @ 480bhp crank rating (Emerald)
May 2007
Mileage 49500
Oil Change
5ltrs GM 5/40w engine oil
July 2007
Hi ratio 1.85 Comp Rockers fitted
Replace broken Driveshaft
November 2007
New Dart 225cc performance cylinder heads fitted
Hardened push rods (Comp Cam)
Feb 2008
Custom grind 233/237 Camshaft fitted
Upgraded Dual .650 Valve springs
3.08 Diff conversion
Close ratio 5th gear fitted
Dyno @539bhp crank rating (Emerald)
May 2008
New Door control Box
New SPA oil/water gauge fitted
June 2008 mileage 57000
New Engine 416ci
New 2008 LS3 Block (4.070 bore)
New Mahle pistons machined with 5cc valve relieves
Dart 225cc heads valves unshrouded, bore matched and combustion chambers taken out to 65cc from 62cc, polished and ported intake/exhaust runners, combustion ratio 11.5:1.
Valves lapped in.
New Callies Compstar connecting rods 6.125”.
Existing 4.00” crank reused new journal grind and rebalanced for new rods and pistons.
New hydraulic camshaft followers (LS7).
New main bearings.
New Big Ends.
New LS7 complete clutch, balanced to crankshaft assembly.
New LS7 head gaskets.
Nick Williams 90mm Throttle body
Ported LS2 intake.
Manual Billet Katech Belt tensioner.
New Rear 18” wheel
New ITG air filter
Gear box oil replaced
New oil/filter.
Rad recore
576/576 Bhp/lbsft (Emerald)
June 2008 Mileage 57500
New oil/filter GM 5/30 Semi Synthetic.
Sept 2008 58000miles
Rear shocks refurbished under warranty
New rear Diff mount, custom made Heavy Duty.
New AP racing Pads 58800 miles
Oct 2008 59100 Miles
New AP racing CP5200 6 bolt Callipers
New Ferodo DS2500 Pads front and rear
New Discs AP Racing floating 343mm
New AP racing bells
New AP racing buttons
New Braided Hoses
Motul 660 Racing brake fluid
December 2008 60100 miles
New Thunder Racing Ported FAST 92mm inlet manifold
New 42lb uprated injectors
New 244/257 bespoke camshaft
New Edlebrock two piece timing cover
New Fully synthetic GM 5/40w oil
Dyno @TVR Power 513bhp (+70bhp) at the rear wheels
Carbone Lorraine RC5plus brake pads all round
Jan 2009 60200 miles
New Complete set of Nitron bespoke shocks fitted
March 2009 approx 61000
Oil change Morrison 5/50w fully synthetic race oil
New Recon steering rack fitted
April 2009
New rear discs (Cryogenic treatment)
July 2009 approx 62500
New Race proved uprated drive shafts
Dec 2009 approx 64000 miles
Gearbox removed due to 3rd gear crunching during fast changes.
All new blocker rings, and 3rd gear syncro replaced.
Fault found to be shifter fork pads, rebuilt with upgraded bronze items replacing nylon pads.
New gear box oil.
Diff seal replaced.
Clean and re oil chassis
Anti bump steer kit fitted
Clutch fluid renewed, Carbone Lorraine race fluid 325C
MOT
May 2010
Kinsler ITB’s
From Mosler GT car complete with MOPAR injectors
Bespoke airbox and bonnet bulge
2011
Uprated Motorsport Crown/Pinion 3.08 ratio
538rwhp/504lbsft torque
2x new improved Drive shafts (Raceproved)
202mph Bruntingthorpe (Data logged)
10.92/132.6mph Santa Pod (June)
June2011
New valve guide seals
Front Discs and Pads CL RC5
Rear Pads CL RC5
New fluid CL 325C (Brakes)
July 2011
New ITG panel filter air box lid
Mac propshaft Drive shafts
Jan 2012
Setrab oil cooler
Braided hoses
Heads upgraded and valve guides replaced
New seals
New big end bearings (clevite race spec)
New Comp dual valve springs (installed height)
Porting to match throttle bodies
New Bespoke Cobra seats
Oil and filter/ new anti freeze
Ropps said:
I personally would pay that little bit more for that knowledge of knowing that if the car has gone through the servicing procedure of a regular service then that is a bonus and should be in good condition rather than a sporadic history with half the book missing.
Not at All.. I don't get it??.. I have every receipt for it's annual service showing oils / plugs / filters etc etc... and I gets serviced every year when it's off the road (sometimes between as things arrise also).. It's not done every 6K / 12K.. it's done every 2.5K.. so there is the hiostory... okay it's not a stamp... But it's better than following the original service plan isn't it??I'm the third owner of my chim and am missing parts of my history. Yet in my ownership I've slowly changed/replaced/fixed bits that have gone wrong or bits that were old (preventative maintenance I think it's called). My 500 cost less than 10k not by much mind you and I've spent over 8k in 4 years.
bonnet hinge n/s o/s
bonnet badge
windscreen
drivers door mirror glass
tail lamp cover
4 toyo tyres
wishbone lower front
pas steering rack
Front end respray
track rod end
ball joint upper/lower
remove pre-cats/main cats
sleve exhaust
replace both front brake hoses
replace both rear discs and pads
new diff
new battery
replace exhaust gaskets
new radiator
Plus servicing by David batty
Like I said some need changing some broke while driving (the diff gave way on the m3 one night) and some was changed just to make it a bit louder for my and others benefit.
If I could figure out how to trace old number plates to people I could probably find the owner but as I can't I'll have to stick with what history I've got. By the end of the year I will have spent more on the car than what I bought it for but it makes no difference to me. I'd hope that if I was to sell the work would speak for it self and the receipts of recent work would be enough.
bonnet hinge n/s o/s
bonnet badge
windscreen
drivers door mirror glass
tail lamp cover
4 toyo tyres
wishbone lower front
pas steering rack
Front end respray
track rod end
ball joint upper/lower
remove pre-cats/main cats
sleve exhaust
replace both front brake hoses
replace both rear discs and pads
new diff
new battery
replace exhaust gaskets
new radiator
Plus servicing by David batty
Like I said some need changing some broke while driving (the diff gave way on the m3 one night) and some was changed just to make it a bit louder for my and others benefit.
If I could figure out how to trace old number plates to people I could probably find the owner but as I can't I'll have to stick with what history I've got. By the end of the year I will have spent more on the car than what I bought it for but it makes no difference to me. I'd hope that if I was to sell the work would speak for it self and the receipts of recent work would be enough.
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