Driver side door glass question
Discussion
PRTVR said:
Have just removed the door card




Congratulations sir, well done - I did that job a few weeks ago, it's an absolute female dog of a job.
Top Tip (stolen from the Bible): Replace the nuts with wingnuts to make it easier next time...
Sadly I can't help with your actual query though...

FastRich said:




Congratulations sir, well done - I did that job a few weeks ago, it's an absolute female dog of a job.
Top Tip (stolen from the Bible): Replace the nuts with wingnuts to make it easier next time...
Sadly I can't help with your actual query though...


It was not as bad as I was expecting, the only problem I had was that I was under the impression that there was 4 main bolts and spent ages looking for the last one, until I pulled on the bottom to find where the bolt was located and it came away, have ordered some felt.
Have checked in the bottom of the door and have not found any felt ....... am starting to think it may have been taken out , maybe because the window was sticking or some other problem,oh well will see how it goes when I get the new felt in.
it may have helped to have girly hands

edo said:
There is a rattle in both of my doors from what sounds like a loose bolt or something in the bottom. Drives me potty.
What are the risks of someone impatient trying to take the door card off?
First do a Google search for chimaera door card removal,What are the risks of someone impatient trying to take the door card off?
and read up on tips, expect to get some shards of fiberglass in your hand/arm, when I had the card off I ran a magnet along the bottom and recovered a few nuts, it went easy for me but some people have had a nightmare, I have not put it all back together yet so it might all get more difficult when I try.
jr6yam said:
To answer the original question; yes, the rear channel should have a rubber guide in it
Mine had been dragged down by the movement of the glass
Thanks, I looked in the bottom of the door and it was no were to be seen, have ordered o new one, can I ask what you used to fix it back in to the rail.Mine had been dragged down by the movement of the glass
PRTVR said:

It was not as bad as I was expecting, the only problem I had was that I was under the impression that there was 4 main bolts and spent ages looking for the last one, until I pulled on the bottom to find where the bolt was located and it came away
it may have helped to have girly hands

FastRich said:
PRTVR said:

It was not as bad as I was expecting, the only problem I had was that I was under the impression that there was 4 main bolts and spent ages looking for the last one, until I pulled on the bottom to find where the bolt was located and it came away
it may have helped to have girly hands

the new rubber arrived today and it is all back together without much problem, kept dropping the nuts in the bottom of the door but after a few fishing trips with my magnet they were recovered,window is a bit slower and stops short of full open, but I am happy with it, may try some silicon spray in the runners to speed things up.PRTVR said:
,window is a bit slower and stops short of full open, but I am happy with it, may try some silicon spray in the runners to speed things up.
Good idea. There is also a height adjustment screw located about half way along the top of the door, just behind the 'quarterlight' pillar. From memory, I believe its roughly 1 turn to 1 or 2mm. That might be worth investigating. 
FastRich said:
PRTVR said:
,window is a bit slower and stops short of full open, but I am happy with it, may try some silicon spray in the runners to speed things up.
Good idea. There is also a height adjustment screw located about half way along the top of the door, just behind the 'quarterlight' pillar. From memory, I believe its roughly 1 turn to 1 or 2mm. That might be worth investigating. 
This from clever Trevor
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/U03...
Its priced per metre ,1 metre will cover the back rail, the postage is a bit steep, so I ordered a few thing extra, 100 amp fuses and some rubber for the window, the one that deflects the water off the window when it runs down.
(Having said that they were delivered in 24 hours so not bad really)
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/U03...
Its priced per metre ,1 metre will cover the back rail, the postage is a bit steep, so I ordered a few thing extra, 100 amp fuses and some rubber for the window, the one that deflects the water off the window when it runs down.
(Having said that they were delivered in 24 hours so not bad really)
This link might help has pictures of the screws and bolts.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Thanks,I have done it!!! 4th bolt was nearer the 3rd than I imagined,all ok bit bloody and scarred but will live,not as bad as I thought no dramas,rubber was laying in bottom of door so removed rear channnel (3 bolts) cleaned up the runner sikkaflexed it back in brushed some grease into the rubber after,let the window run up and down with runner bolts finger tight it aligns its self a bit check all functions before tightening up refitting it all.Oh and adjusted the window height to...phew been putting that off for weeks, all is well in the world!
nb One good tip would be to gaffer tape all sharp edges before starting will save lots of pain and profanity (as he tries to remove skewer of fibeglass buried deeply in forearm).
nb One good tip would be to gaffer tape all sharp edges before starting will save lots of pain and profanity (as he tries to remove skewer of fibeglass buried deeply in forearm).
Edited by Gary11 on Thursday 13th September 13:40
Gary11 said:
Thanks,I have done it!!! 4th bolt was nearer the 3rd than I imagined,all ok bit bloody and scarred but will live,not as bad as I thought no dramas,rubber was laying in bottom of door so removed rear channnel (3 bolts) cleaned up the runner sikkaflexed it back in brushed some grease into the rubber after,let the window run up and down with runner bolts finger tight it aligns its self a bit check all functions before tightening up refitting it all.Oh and adjusted the window height to...phew been putting that off for weeks, all is well in the world!
nb One good tip would be to gaffer tape all sharp edges before starting will save lots of pain and profanity (as he tries to remove skewer of fibeglass buried deeply in forearm).
nb One good tip would be to gaffer tape all sharp edges before starting will save lots of pain and profanity (as he tries to remove skewer of fibeglass buried deeply in forearm).
Edited by Gary11 on Thursday 13th September 13:40
That's great I think I have to go back in to mine, it still is not going fully down, but I might just do what you did , with the finger tight bolts and running the window up and down to align it.PRTVR said:
This from clever Trevor
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/U03...
Its priced per metre ,1 metre will cover the back rail, the postage is a bit steep, so I ordered a few thing extra, 100 amp fuses and some rubber for the window, the one that deflects the water off the window when it runs down.
(Having said that they were delivered in 24 hours so not bad really)
Have you tried to replace the door-to-window rubber yet? I think mine needs doing.http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/U03...
Its priced per metre ,1 metre will cover the back rail, the postage is a bit steep, so I ordered a few thing extra, 100 amp fuses and some rubber for the window, the one that deflects the water off the window when it runs down.
(Having said that they were delivered in 24 hours so not bad really)
Rich
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