Driver side door glass question
Driver side door glass question
Author
Discussion

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Tuesday 4th September 2012
quotequote all
Have just removed the door card to locate a rattle from the glass, does anybody know if the rear runner should have rubber in it? Mine appears to only have rubber on the front runner .

Thanks

FastRich

542 posts

229 months

Tuesday 4th September 2012
quotequote all
PRTVR said:
Have just removed the door card
bounceclapbowwoohoo

Congratulations sir, well done - I did that job a few weeks ago, it's an absolute female dog of a job.

Top Tip (stolen from the Bible): Replace the nuts with wingnuts to make it easier next time...

thumbup

Sadly I can't help with your actual query though... getmecoat

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Tuesday 4th September 2012
quotequote all
FastRich said:
bounceclapbowwoohoo

Congratulations sir, well done - I did that job a few weeks ago, it's an absolute female dog of a job.

Top Tip (stolen from the Bible): Replace the nuts with wingnuts to make it easier next time...

thumbup

Sadly I can't help with your actual query though... getmecoat
biglaugh
It was not as bad as I was expecting, the only problem I had was that I was under the impression that there was 4 main bolts and spent ages looking for the last one, until I pulled on the bottom to find where the bolt was located and it came away, have ordered some felt.
Have checked in the bottom of the door and have not found any felt ....... am starting to think it may have been taken out , maybe because the window was sticking or some other problem,oh well will see how it goes when I get the new felt in.

it may have helped to have girly hands smile

edo

16,699 posts

294 months

Tuesday 4th September 2012
quotequote all
There is a rattle in both of my doors from what sounds like a loose bolt or something in the bottom. Drives me potty.

What are the risks of someone impatient trying to take the door card off?

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Tuesday 4th September 2012
quotequote all
edo said:
There is a rattle in both of my doors from what sounds like a loose bolt or something in the bottom. Drives me potty.

What are the risks of someone impatient trying to take the door card off?
First do a Google search for chimaera door card removal,
and read up on tips, expect to get some shards of fiberglass in your hand/arm, when I had the card off I ran a magnet along the bottom and recovered a few nuts, it went easy for me but some people have had a nightmare, I have not put it all back together yet so it might all get more difficult when I try.

jr6yam

1,363 posts

212 months

Tuesday 4th September 2012
quotequote all
To answer the original question; yes, the rear channel should have a rubber guide in it
Mine had been dragged down by the movement of the glass

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Tuesday 4th September 2012
quotequote all
jr6yam said:
To answer the original question; yes, the rear channel should have a rubber guide in it
Mine had been dragged down by the movement of the glass
Thanks, I looked in the bottom of the door and it was no were to be seen, have ordered o new one, can I ask what you used to fix it back in to the rail.

jr6yam

1,363 posts

212 months

Wednesday 5th September 2012
quotequote all
I didn't have time to do a proper job , so for a quick fix I just pulled it back up the channel
6 months later it's still ok
When I have time I'll fix it permanently; was gonna use Bostik or similar

FastRich

542 posts

229 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
quotequote all
PRTVR said:
biglaugh
It was not as bad as I was expecting, the only problem I had was that I was under the impression that there was 4 main bolts and spent ages looking for the last one, until I pulled on the bottom to find where the bolt was located and it came away

it may have helped to have girly hands smile
Yes, the 4th bolt was added on the later cars '98/'99 onwards I believe. I must admit, I didn't bother putting the last one back on as my arm was severed by that point. On a positive note, once I've healed the scars will be epic so I'll tell all the girls it was a shark/tiger attack. Winner.

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
quotequote all
FastRich said:
PRTVR said:
biglaugh
It was not as bad as I was expecting, the only problem I had was that I was under the impression that there was 4 main bolts and spent ages looking for the last one, until I pulled on the bottom to find where the bolt was located and it came away

it may have helped to have girly hands smile
Yes, the 4th bolt was added on the later cars '98/'99 onwards I believe. I must admit, I didn't bother putting the last one back on as my arm was severed by that point. On a positive note, once I've healed the scars will be epic so I'll tell all the girls it was a shark/tiger attack. Winner.
biglaugh the new rubber arrived today and it is all back together without much problem, kept dropping the nuts in the bottom of the door but after a few fishing trips with my magnet they were recovered,window is a bit slower and stops short of full open, but I am happy with it, may try some silicon spray in the runners to speed things up.

FastRich

542 posts

229 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
quotequote all
PRTVR said:
,window is a bit slower and stops short of full open, but I am happy with it, may try some silicon spray in the runners to speed things up.
Good idea. There is also a height adjustment screw located about half way along the top of the door, just behind the 'quarterlight' pillar. From memory, I believe its roughly 1 turn to 1 or 2mm. That might be worth investigating. scratchchin

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
quotequote all
FastRich said:
PRTVR said:
,window is a bit slower and stops short of full open, but I am happy with it, may try some silicon spray in the runners to speed things up.
Good idea. There is also a height adjustment screw located about half way along the top of the door, just behind the 'quarterlight' pillar. From memory, I believe its roughly 1 turn to 1 or 2mm. That might be worth investigating. scratchchin
Did look at that but without the rear rubber in it goes fully down, think it must be the added friction slowing it down.

Gary11

4,162 posts

230 months

Friday 7th September 2012
quotequote all
I have to do this job,what channel rubber did you get?
G

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Friday 7th September 2012
quotequote all
This from clever Trevor
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/U03...
Its priced per metre ,1 metre will cover the back rail, the postage is a bit steep, so I ordered a few thing extra, 100 amp fuses and some rubber for the window, the one that deflects the water off the window when it runs down.
(Having said that they were delivered in 24 hours so not bad really)

Gary11

4,162 posts

230 months

Friday 7th September 2012
quotequote all
Thanks a lot!
G

Gary11

4,162 posts

230 months

Thursday 13th September 2012
quotequote all
ok ok how do you get at and where is the 4th bolt are there any screws anywhere as mentioned in the carpeted bit??
Also is it easy to raise window height?

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Thursday 13th September 2012
quotequote all
This link might help has pictures of the screws and bolts.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Gary11

4,162 posts

230 months

Thursday 13th September 2012
quotequote all
Thanks,I have done it!!! 4th bolt was nearer the 3rd than I imagined,all ok bit bloody and scarred but will live,not as bad as I thought no dramas,rubber was laying in bottom of door so removed rear channnel (3 bolts) cleaned up the runner sikkaflexed it back in brushed some grease into the rubber after,let the window run up and down with runner bolts finger tight it aligns its self a bit check all functions before tightening up refitting it all.Oh and adjusted the window height to...phew been putting that off for weeks, all is well in the world!

nb One good tip would be to gaffer tape all sharp edges before starting will save lots of pain and profanity (as he tries to remove skewer of fibeglass buried deeply in forearm).

Edited by Gary11 on Thursday 13th September 13:40

PRTVR

Original Poster:

8,197 posts

250 months

Thursday 13th September 2012
quotequote all
Gary11 said:
Thanks,I have done it!!! 4th bolt was nearer the 3rd than I imagined,all ok bit bloody and scarred but will live,not as bad as I thought no dramas,rubber was laying in bottom of door so removed rear channnel (3 bolts) cleaned up the runner sikkaflexed it back in brushed some grease into the rubber after,let the window run up and down with runner bolts finger tight it aligns its self a bit check all functions before tightening up refitting it all.Oh and adjusted the window height to...phew been putting that off for weeks, all is well in the world!

nb One good tip would be to gaffer tape all sharp edges before starting will save lots of pain and profanity (as he tries to remove skewer of fibeglass buried deeply in forearm).

Edited by Gary11 on Thursday 13th September 13:40
bounce That's great I think I have to go back in to mine, it still is not going fully down, but I might just do what you did , with the finger tight bolts and running the window up and down to align it.

rickprice

498 posts

267 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
quotequote all
PRTVR said:
This from clever Trevor
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/U03...
Its priced per metre ,1 metre will cover the back rail, the postage is a bit steep, so I ordered a few thing extra, 100 amp fuses and some rubber for the window, the one that deflects the water off the window when it runs down.
(Having said that they were delivered in 24 hours so not bad really)
Have you tried to replace the door-to-window rubber yet? I think mine needs doing.

Rich