Fitting clear front indicators to a 98 Chimaera
Discussion
Well according to SHpub (Steve) in another thread, somebody was changing the lens caps in this one.
"They are bonded in with sealent. Same stuff used to bond windscreens. This has to be removed carefully without damaging the paintwork and the lens swapped over, and the units reseled back in place. There are piccies of the units in the bible."
End quote!
Hope this helps
"They are bonded in with sealent. Same stuff used to bond windscreens. This has to be removed carefully without damaging the paintwork and the lens swapped over, and the units reseled back in place. There are piccies of the units in the bible."
End quote!
Hope this helps
Corin,
This may be of help.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=120174&f=9&h=3
I used white silicon for obvious reasons but it is now starting to discolour so I'll do it again (at some point) in black.
I assume yours are the same type through the mesh grill so probably far easier to change than the ones on the Griff.
FFG
This may be of help.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=120174&f=9&h=3
I used white silicon for obvious reasons but it is now starting to discolour so I'll do it again (at some point) in black.
I assume yours are the same type through the mesh grill so probably far easier to change than the ones on the Griff.
FFG
Hi Corin,
I have just finished fitting the clear front and side repeater lenses on my Chimaera.
Heres how I did mine:
1. Reach behind the indicator assembly via the front intakes and remove as much of the silicone sealant from the back of the lens as you can. This sealant is the main thing that holds the indicators in place but they are also tacked in with super glue. It may be easier if you unscrew and the bulb holder for better access.
2 Give the lens a firm push from the front of the car. In my case one of the lens came out easily but the other was bonded in a bit better! I used the wooden handle of a hammer and tapped it until it broke free.
3 Position the new clear lense in place and tack into position with superglue. Most people use silicone to fully secure the lense from behind but I used 4 blobs of araldite putty (halfords). This is strong, far cleaner to work with and much easier to apply to the rear of the housing. Also, it should still be fairly easy to remove if you ever need to...... I think.. (really is strong stuff)
4 I used a tiny amount of black sealant on the front of the indicator lense but you may not have to. If the lense is a good fit in the body you may not have any gap showing at the front so you might be happy with it as is.
I ordered mine from this place www.marcusglenn.com
Delivery next day, total cost £30 including P&P and VAT
>> Edited by matt101 on Tuesday 24th August 14:24
I have just finished fitting the clear front and side repeater lenses on my Chimaera.
Heres how I did mine:
1. Reach behind the indicator assembly via the front intakes and remove as much of the silicone sealant from the back of the lens as you can. This sealant is the main thing that holds the indicators in place but they are also tacked in with super glue. It may be easier if you unscrew and the bulb holder for better access.
2 Give the lens a firm push from the front of the car. In my case one of the lens came out easily but the other was bonded in a bit better! I used the wooden handle of a hammer and tapped it until it broke free.
3 Position the new clear lense in place and tack into position with superglue. Most people use silicone to fully secure the lense from behind but I used 4 blobs of araldite putty (halfords). This is strong, far cleaner to work with and much easier to apply to the rear of the housing. Also, it should still be fairly easy to remove if you ever need to...... I think.. (really is strong stuff)
4 I used a tiny amount of black sealant on the front of the indicator lense but you may not have to. If the lense is a good fit in the body you may not have any gap showing at the front so you might be happy with it as is.
I ordered mine from this place www.marcusglenn.com
Delivery next day, total cost £30 including P&P and VAT
>> Edited by matt101 on Tuesday 24th August 14:24
I did virtually the same as matt101 only I had to get a small stanley knife behind the lens via the front grill and cut away some of the seleant as there was so much of it.
Other than that it was easy apart from the fact of trying to aquire orange bulbs. Be carefull because the bayonet fitting on the ones Halfwits supply is slightly different than the clear ones that come out. The bayonet bobbles are 180 degree opposed on the clears but Halfwits orange ones are about 150 degree opposed and will not fit. I had to get them from a local motor parts shop.
Puffsorted
Other than that it was easy apart from the fact of trying to aquire orange bulbs. Be carefull because the bayonet fitting on the ones Halfwits supply is slightly different than the clear ones that come out. The bayonet bobbles are 180 degree opposed on the clears but Halfwits orange ones are about 150 degree opposed and will not fit. I had to get them from a local motor parts shop.
Puffsorted
I got the Philips Silvervision bulbs from powerbulbs as they are mirror reflective and only glow orange when on. This eliminates the fried egg effect.
www.powerbulbs.co.uk/?sfgdata=4
You may need to file on of the nobbles down a tad to get it to fit. I had to do this and it does work.
FFG
www.powerbulbs.co.uk/?sfgdata=4
You may need to file on of the nobbles down a tad to get it to fit. I had to do this and it does work.
FFG
Corin have a look on www.tvrcc-surrey.co.uk I remember that David did an article on this for his Griff....
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