What's the likely reason for....
Discussion
The black smoke I'm seeing in my rear view mirror when I engage the warp drive? Quietlybonkers commented on it earlier in the year when he was following me over to Gasmunkeys gaff 
Paid a quick visit to the charity race day at Snetts yesterday lunchtime and as I left the sliproad rejoining the A11 I gave the old girl a bootfull and was horrified to see just how much smoke I seemed to be making... So, most likely suspects, rings or valve guides ? Would overfuelling produce a similar effect? Running forged pistons and 10.5:1 CR... I'll obviously discuss it with the experts and get it looked at but thought I'd pop it on here too 
Slightly concerned but not panicking yet,
Chilli
Paid a quick visit to the charity race day at Snetts yesterday lunchtime and as I left the sliproad rejoining the A11 I gave the old girl a bootfull and was horrified to see just how much smoke I seemed to be making... So, most likely suspects, rings or valve guides ? Would overfuelling produce a similar effect? Running forged pistons and 10.5:1 CR... I'll obviously discuss it with the experts and get it looked at but thought I'd pop it on here too Slightly concerned but not panicking yet,
Chilli
Thanks for the replies guys...
Ian, good to meet you too!
Nick, I've got MS2. Maybe time to get the map looked at? Oddly, Gasmunkey was telling me on Saturday that I needed a remap as I've got some nasty low rev shunting (which I put down to having a slightly lairy cam) and an awful lot of unburnt fuel when she's cold and warming up... the smell of petrol from the tailpipes is sometimes rather alarming
Cheers,
Chilli
Ian, good to meet you too!
Nick, I've got MS2. Maybe time to get the map looked at? Oddly, Gasmunkey was telling me on Saturday that I needed a remap as I've got some nasty low rev shunting (which I put down to having a slightly lairy cam) and an awful lot of unburnt fuel when she's cold and warming up... the smell of petrol from the tailpipes is sometimes rather alarming
Cheers,
Chilli
Also remember if your running rich low down the RPM range then when you boot it you will get an exhaust & silencers contents of soot out the back thus throwing you off the scent although that would have to include a lot of low speed driving 
what I am trying to say is that because it does it when you clogg it this may not necessarily mean it's rich at the top end 
get a wideband on it or get it checked.
although that would have to include a lot of low speed driving what I am trying to say is that because it does it when you clogg it this may not necessarily mean it's rich at the top end get a wideband on it or get it checked. Chilliman said:
Thanks for the replies guys...
Ian, good to meet you too!
Nick, I've got MS2. Maybe time to get the map looked at? Oddly, Gasmunkey was telling me on Saturday that I needed a remap as I've got some nasty low rev shunting (which I put down to having a slightly lairy cam) and an awful lot of unburnt fuel when she's cold and warming up... the smell of petrol from the tailpipes is sometimes rather alarming
Cheers,
Chilli
Yeah this sounds about right for a new map on an aftermarket ECU. I had to send mine back several times and tweek it myself until I was happy with it. The problem is that mappers rush the car through, spend the afternoon sorting the power curve but hardly touch everything else. You need to tell them exactly what you want changed (revs, gear and amount of throttle), so they can go through it. It sounds to me like your transient fuel map is out (this adds a load of fuel as you floor the pedal to help pickup). Other common errors are cold start (mappers often rely on an overly rich map to get an easy idle, you can tell by the black marks it will leave under your exhaust pipes after a few minutes), low speed shunting (easy to tweek but best done on the road), and light throttle cruising - especially on downhill inclines at motorway speed (very hard to replicate on the dyno).Ian, good to meet you too!
Nick, I've got MS2. Maybe time to get the map looked at? Oddly, Gasmunkey was telling me on Saturday that I needed a remap as I've got some nasty low rev shunting (which I put down to having a slightly lairy cam) and an awful lot of unburnt fuel when she's cold and warming up... the smell of petrol from the tailpipes is sometimes rather alarming
Cheers,
Chilli
These are all easily solved if you corner the mapper and ask them to tidy up the map and properly populate all available compensation tables. It does take time though which is why they avoid it in the first place. Most should sort it for free though if you aren't satisfied with their first attempt. Don't let them do it in a day either; cold start takes several cold mornings to perfect as you only get one shot per hour on a cold morning as it needs to be dead cold, and the other bits will likely need a proper on-road mapping with a mechanic driving and the mapper in the passenger seat.
A badly mapped ECU can make a great car feel terrible so make sure this is done as thoroughly as possible.
450Nick said:
Chilliman said:
Thanks for the replies guys...
Ian, good to meet you too!
Nick, I've got MS2. Maybe time to get the map looked at? Oddly, Gasmunkey was telling me on Saturday that I needed a remap as I've got some nasty low rev shunting (which I put down to having a slightly lairy cam) and an awful lot of unburnt fuel when she's cold and warming up... the smell of petrol from the tailpipes is sometimes rather alarming
Cheers,
Chilli
Yeah this sounds about right for a new map on an aftermarket ECU. I had to send mine back several times and tweek it myself until I was happy with it. The problem is that mappers rush the car through, spend the afternoon sorting the power curve but hardly touch everything else. You need to tell them exactly what you want changed (revs, gear and amount of throttle), so they can go through it. It sounds to me like your transient fuel map is out (this adds a load of fuel as you floor the pedal to help pickup). Other common errors are cold start (mappers often rely on an overly rich map to get an easy idle, you can tell by the black marks it will leave under your exhaust pipes after a few minutes), low speed shunting (easy to tweek but best done on the road), and light throttle cruising - especially on downhill inclines at motorway speed (very hard to replicate on the dyno).Ian, good to meet you too!
Nick, I've got MS2. Maybe time to get the map looked at? Oddly, Gasmunkey was telling me on Saturday that I needed a remap as I've got some nasty low rev shunting (which I put down to having a slightly lairy cam) and an awful lot of unburnt fuel when she's cold and warming up... the smell of petrol from the tailpipes is sometimes rather alarming
Cheers,
Chilli
These are all easily solved if you corner the mapper and ask them to tidy up the map and properly populate all available compensation tables. It does take time though which is why they avoid it in the first place. Most should sort it for free though if you aren't satisfied with their first attempt. Don't let them do it in a day either; cold start takes several cold mornings to perfect as you only get one shot per hour on a cold morning as it needs to be dead cold, and the other bits will likely need a proper on-road mapping with a mechanic driving and the mapper in the passenger seat.
A badly mapped ECU can make a great car feel terrible so make sure this is done as thoroughly as possible.
With out this it`s like flogging a dead horse. Im want to take mine to a rollong road to see if my lambda sensors matches the one on the rolling road .Ive heard they can be calibrated to match the rolling road lambda .
Does the lambda turn off to closed at a certain rpm . If the lambdas can not read fast enough how do they tune the engine in the first place .
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Monday 19th November 14:55
SILICONEKID340HP said:
The question i have always asked my self is when a car has been maped on the road ,how do you know if the Lambda sensor is correctly calibrated !
With out this it`s like flogging a dead horse. Im want to take mine to a rollong road to see if my lambda sensors matches the one on the rolling road .Ive heard they can be calibrated to match the rolling road lambda .
Does the lambda turn off to closed at a certain rpm . If the lambdas can not read fast enough how do they tune the engine in the first place .
Depends what Lambda you have, most modern ones will self calibrate so there is no calibration to be done - certainly with my dynojet one you just plug it in and that's it. Generally you choose when it is in open, closed or adaptive mode. I used to have it adaptive on idle and motorway cruise, but the car always felt smoother without it interfering, so now I run the car open loop all of the time, and just monitor the AFR gauge and make sure it doesn't show anything silly. Done 10's of thousands of miles since fitting it and the blower though with no issues so I've no worries about not running with one..!With out this it`s like flogging a dead horse. Im want to take mine to a rollong road to see if my lambda sensors matches the one on the rolling road .Ive heard they can be calibrated to match the rolling road lambda .
Does the lambda turn off to closed at a certain rpm . If the lambdas can not read fast enough how do they tune the engine in the first place .
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Monday 19th November 14:55
Edited by 450Nick on Monday 19th November 15:41
450Nick said:
Yeah this sounds about right for a new map on an aftermarket ECU. I had to send mine back several times and tweek it myself until I was happy with it. The problem is that mappers rush the car through, spend the afternoon sorting the power curve but hardly touch everything else. You need to tell them exactly what you want changed (revs, gear and amount of throttle), so they can go through it. It sounds to me like your transient fuel map is out (this adds a load of fuel as you floor the pedal to help pickup). Other common errors are cold start (mappers often rely on an overly rich map to get an easy idle, you can tell by the black marks it will leave under your exhaust pipes after a few minutes), low speed shunting (easy to tweek but best done on the road), and light throttle cruising - especially on downhill inclines at motorway speed (very hard to replicate on the dyno).
These are all easily solved if you corner the mapper and ask them to tidy up the map and properly populate all available compensation tables. It does take time though which is why they avoid it in the first place. Most should sort it for free though if you aren't satisfied with their first attempt. Don't let them do it in a day either; cold start takes several cold mornings to perfect as you only get one shot per hour on a cold morning as it needs to be dead cold, and the other bits will likely need a proper on-road mapping with a mechanic driving and the mapper in the passenger seat.
A badly mapped ECU can make a great car feel terrible so make sure this is done as thoroughly as possible.
Nick, cheers for that, all makes perfect sense These are all easily solved if you corner the mapper and ask them to tidy up the map and properly populate all available compensation tables. It does take time though which is why they avoid it in the first place. Most should sort it for free though if you aren't satisfied with their first attempt. Don't let them do it in a day either; cold start takes several cold mornings to perfect as you only get one shot per hour on a cold morning as it needs to be dead cold, and the other bits will likely need a proper on-road mapping with a mechanic driving and the mapper in the passenger seat.
A badly mapped ECU can make a great car feel terrible so make sure this is done as thoroughly as possible.
And I've already ruined one pair of shoes putting the roof in the boot whilst the car was warming up Oddly, I've just taken her out and given her a few bootfuls in different gears/from different revs to try and identify the smoke colour... and it didn't do it
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