ECU temp sensor
Discussion
Just thought i would change the ECU temp sensor ,do i need some type of paste ? the reason i decided to change it is because even on a cold day its showing alot warmer than it actualy is showing on the megasquirt .. Its showing 17 degrees C but it`s alot colder .Wasted my money, the new one shows the same ..
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Just thought i would change the ECU temp sensor ,do i need some type of paste ? the reason i decided to change it is because even on a cold day its showing alot warmer than it actualy is showing on the megasquirt .. Its showing 17 degrees C but it`s alot colder .Wasted my money, the new one shows the same ..
It probably needs calibrating in the software Daz 
the RV8 one is not MS default GM type 
Sardonicus said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Just thought i would change the ECU temp sensor ,do i need some type of paste ? the reason i decided to change it is because even on a cold day its showing alot warmer than it actualy is showing on the megasquirt .. Its showing 17 degrees C but it`s alot colder .Wasted my money, the new one shows the same ..
It probably needs calibrating in the software Daz the RV8 one is not MS default GM type Paid two so called specialists to sort all this out ..! who can you trust ?
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Saturday 1st December 11:24
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Sardonicus said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Just thought i would change the ECU temp sensor ,do i need some type of paste ? the reason i decided to change it is because even on a cold day its showing alot warmer than it actualy is showing on the megasquirt .. Its showing 17 degrees C but it`s alot colder .Wasted my money, the new one shows the same ..
It probably needs calibrating in the software Daz the RV8 one is not MS default GM type Paid two so called specialists to sort all this out ..! who can you trust ?
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Saturday 1st December 11:24
Discopotatoes said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Sardonicus said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Just thought i would change the ECU temp sensor ,do i need some type of paste ? the reason i decided to change it is because even on a cold day its showing alot warmer than it actualy is showing on the megasquirt .. Its showing 17 degrees C but it`s alot colder .Wasted my money, the new one shows the same ..
It probably needs calibrating in the software Daz the RV8 one is not MS default GM type Paid two so called specialists to sort all this out ..! who can you trust ?
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Saturday 1st December 11:24
Its not an insulator paste Daz, you can use a sealer if you like, this one does not need to ground to the intake to function, I used nothing on mine with no weeps/leaks so its up to you, when i am on my PC i will link you to the Hotwire temp sensor scaling range for MS/Tunerstudio.
Edited by Sardonicus on Saturday 1st December 16:46
Got it working followed the intructions but not sure if i have put the right settings in "create a new project"
I put the correct lambda in but don`t know which settings should be deactivated ..
This shows "create a new project" but because the Lambda options have droped down i don`t know what to deactivate.
Followed these instructions .
http://www.extraefi.co.uk/TunerStudio_Setup.html some of the settings are hidden because it shows the lambda choice drop down.
I put the correct lambda in but don`t know which settings should be deactivated ..
This shows "create a new project" but because the Lambda options have droped down i don`t know what to deactivate.
Followed these instructions .
http://www.extraefi.co.uk/TunerStudio_Setup.html some of the settings are hidden because it shows the lambda choice drop down.
Sardonicus said:
Pupp said:
Who's going to tell him that changing the sensor curve will alter the corrections applied to the maps...? 
Good point Pupp as in I don't want Daz upsetting anything 
Daz stop where you are at if your not confident going any further 
as I would hate trying to help you a bit only for you to destroy your current tune as it is i.e working 
to try and guide you/help you typing text as huge potential for f
k up so I am stopping right here 
I have no idea what voltages you have coming out of your Techedge (it may not be the default) they may have been customized as this is possible with the Innovate WB's etc and I know you run closed loop so tread carefully 
This is what the Hotwire temp chart looks like just for your curiosity, as you can see it gives 3 points in the range for reference MS works out the bits between the figures..Computed Steinhart-Hart coefficients: A=0.00127947 B=0.000259373 C=3.56954e-07
; 2 Celcius = 4000 ohm
; 74 Celcius = 362 ohm
; 94 Celcius = 212 ohm
; For use with 2490 ohm bias resistor installed at R7.
Edited by Sardonicus on Saturday 1st December 20:44
What i did with my old laptop is save my current Tune then send it to my email , I then picked the tune up off my email on the new laptop .
Just opening the tune did not work so loaded the drivers etc(useing a disc) then followed the instructions to get a port .. The only thing which confused me is those settings .
It did not communicate so in the end downloaded
TunerStudio MS version 2.0.6 (Approximately 6.2MB)
MegaLogViewer MS Version 3.1.1 (1.6 Mb)
CD for MS2-Extra Release V3.2.1
Im surprised its so complicated just to get it connected when i already have the whole tune saved by emailing it to my self ,all the settings are in this tune (communications "settings" would not highlight for me to choose a com )
Should the Tuner Studio come on to the screen automaticly one connected to the ECU and ignition is switched on with the current tune ?
This is doing my head in .. thinking of sticking a Carb on ..
The original plan was to pick the tune up from my email,load the drivers from the disc and thats it ! everything is setup in that tune so there should be no reason to download any of the above ..
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Sunday 2nd December 00:07
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Sunday 2nd December 09:24
Daz, I would get some professional help before you go any further mate.
As the others have said, recalibrating your ECU temp sensor is just going to throw your whole map out.
If the map was created on a temp sensor reading of 17c when the true coolant temp is 8c, then calibrating the sensor to read the correct 8c at 8c is going to mean the map reference point for the injector duration ect will be very different from what your MS installer intended (read wrong).
I would get someone with MS mapping experience to calibrate all the sensors, then load a safe base map & spend time building a decent bespoke map for your car from there.
Tweaking the ECU temp calibration (even if you are just making it correct) is only going to end up throwing everything out.
Stop...Think...Start again.
Or better still, Stop....Think....Pay someone else to start again
As the others have said, recalibrating your ECU temp sensor is just going to throw your whole map out.
If the map was created on a temp sensor reading of 17c when the true coolant temp is 8c, then calibrating the sensor to read the correct 8c at 8c is going to mean the map reference point for the injector duration ect will be very different from what your MS installer intended (read wrong).
I would get someone with MS mapping experience to calibrate all the sensors, then load a safe base map & spend time building a decent bespoke map for your car from there.
Tweaking the ECU temp calibration (even if you are just making it correct) is only going to end up throwing everything out.
Stop...Think...Start again.
Or better still, Stop....Think....Pay someone else to start again
ChimpofDarkness said:
Daz, I would get some professional help before you go any further mate.
As the others have said, recalibrating your ECU temp sensor is just going to throw your whole map out.
If the map was created on a temp sensor reading of 17c when the true coolant temp is 8c, then calibrating the sensor to read the correct 8c at 8c is going to mean the map reference point for the injector duration ect will be very different from what your MS installer intended (read wrong).
I would get someone with MS mapping experience to calibrate all the sensors, then load a safe base map & spend time building a decent bespoke map for your car from there.
Tweaking the ECU temp calibration (even if you are just making it correct) is only going to end up throwing everything out.
Stop...Think...Start again.
Or better still, Stop....Think....Pay someone else to start again
Thanks for your advice As the others have said, recalibrating your ECU temp sensor is just going to throw your whole map out.
If the map was created on a temp sensor reading of 17c when the true coolant temp is 8c, then calibrating the sensor to read the correct 8c at 8c is going to mean the map reference point for the injector duration ect will be very different from what your MS installer intended (read wrong).
I would get someone with MS mapping experience to calibrate all the sensors, then load a safe base map & spend time building a decent bespoke map for your car from there.
Tweaking the ECU temp calibration (even if you are just making it correct) is only going to end up throwing everything out.
Stop...Think...Start again.
Or better still, Stop....Think....Pay someone else to start again
I paid one mapper £300 and the other was part of the install , So thats twice i have paid ...How much do i need to spend ?
Who can i trust ?
Just been down the garage at 9.42am the readings are air temp -2 coolent temp +10 ,surely these are calibrated before any mapping !
Replaced the sensor but still the same ..The cold start is terrible .The grounds are wrong causing a difference n the AFR tables and lambda guage but thats the installers fault ..
Might just get rid it !
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Sunday 2nd December 10:15
Daz don't change anything. It doesn't matter one jot that the ecu sees 17C when it's actually 1 or 2C as long as the corrections that are applied at ecu=17C are correct for air temp=2C. As long as the same sensors keep getting replaced like for like in the future then all your warm up tables / cold start tables will be fine. If they're working now they'll work in the future.
Is there a specific fault you're trying to cure? or do you just want the numbers on the screen to match the ambient air temps? I doubt you'll find a temp sensor that is absolutely linear in its output anyway so there will always be an element of drift of readings throughout the temp range, though only a few degC in reality. IE if you set sensor readings at 0C and 100C in the ecu and interpolate between them for the rest of the readings you might find that at 50C the ecu reads 53C or something similar.
It would be nice to have it right though as it could prove useful in diagnostics in the future, but as long as the warm up table is for the sensor that's in there and it's got sensible numbers in for how it's set up in your ecu then no probems at this stage.
Bottom line is : does the car drive ok as it is? If so, leave it alone
If not then address the specific fault not something that looks wrong but in reality is having no effect on ecu performance.
Is there a specific fault you're trying to cure? or do you just want the numbers on the screen to match the ambient air temps? I doubt you'll find a temp sensor that is absolutely linear in its output anyway so there will always be an element of drift of readings throughout the temp range, though only a few degC in reality. IE if you set sensor readings at 0C and 100C in the ecu and interpolate between them for the rest of the readings you might find that at 50C the ecu reads 53C or something similar.
It would be nice to have it right though as it could prove useful in diagnostics in the future, but as long as the warm up table is for the sensor that's in there and it's got sensible numbers in for how it's set up in your ecu then no probems at this stage.
Bottom line is : does the car drive ok as it is? If so, leave it alone
If not then address the specific fault not something that looks wrong but in reality is having no effect on ecu performance.Edited by spitfire4v8 on Sunday 2nd December 09:54
spitfire4v8 said:
Daz don't change anything. It doesn't matter one jot that the ecu sees 17C when it's actually 1 or 2C as long as the corrections that are applied at ecu=17C are correct for air temp=2C. As long as the same sensors keep getting replaced like for like in the future then all your warm up tables / cold start tables will be fine. If they're working now they'll work in the future.
Is there a specific fault you're trying to cure? or do you just want the numbers on the screen to match the ambient air temps? I doubt you'll find a temp sensor that is absolutely linear in its output anyway so there will always be an element of drift of readings throughout the temp range, though only a few degC in reality. IE if you set sensor readings at 0C and 100C in the ecu and interpolate between them for the rest of the readings you might find that at 50C the ecu reads 53C or something similar.
It would be nice to have it right though as it could prove useful in diagnostics in the future, but as long as the warm up table is for the sensor that's in there and it's got sensible numbers in for how it's set up in your ecu then no probems at this stage.
Bottom line is : does the car drive ok as it is? If so, leave it alone If not then address the specific fault not something that looks wrong but in reality is having no effect on ecu performance.
Thanks Is there a specific fault you're trying to cure? or do you just want the numbers on the screen to match the ambient air temps? I doubt you'll find a temp sensor that is absolutely linear in its output anyway so there will always be an element of drift of readings throughout the temp range, though only a few degC in reality. IE if you set sensor readings at 0C and 100C in the ecu and interpolate between them for the rest of the readings you might find that at 50C the ecu reads 53C or something similar.
It would be nice to have it right though as it could prove useful in diagnostics in the future, but as long as the warm up table is for the sensor that's in there and it's got sensible numbers in for how it's set up in your ecu then no probems at this stage.
Bottom line is : does the car drive ok as it is? If so, leave it alone
If not then address the specific fault not something that looks wrong but in reality is having no effect on ecu performance.Edited by spitfire4v8 on Sunday 2nd December 09:54
Yes the car is doing 10mpg ,noticed a few things ... the digital lambda display guage shows a lot richer afr than what the ECU thinks it`s running at ,it takes three attempts to get it to start and when its running the AFR`s go up and down quickly from 14 to 19afr .It then eventually settles to idle
I have only observed and would not dare to make any changes .
Just sick of paying money out !
blitzracing said:
All from the mouth of a man who says advises ditching the trusty old 14CUX set up ASAP......
B.T.W Daz- it was working- now its not- whats been changed? Its very easy to introduce more faults as you go to trace another.
For a technical man like you an after market ECU would be a doddle and you would enjoy it !B.T.W Daz- it was working- now its not- whats been changed? Its very easy to introduce more faults as you go to trace another.
Edited by blitzracing on Sunday 2nd December 10:21
What i know about ECU`s mapping etc i can write in on a asprin with a phewmatic drill.
You have being trying to crack the codes for years ,I don`t know why you bother !
My problem is im relying on other people which costs
spend said:
Whats's Joo ever done to you to deserve that?
Sorting Cold starts out for £300..... Could take 1 hours work every day of 2 years to ensure every base covered ~ still could lead to toy / pram episodes... No thank you
The original cold start done by the installer reved at 1600 rpm for one minute then down to 1200 rpm for 1 minute then stepped down.Sorting Cold starts out for £300..... Could take 1 hours work every day of 2 years to ensure every base covered ~ still could lead to toy / pram episodes... No thank you
All together it took 5 minutes to get to idle ,think it used about half a gallon of petrol ..
running 12afr to 14afr over that time period .
What is the perfect target afr and time to get it to idle .?
Im not looking for perfection ,something better than what im getting ..
Quicker the better ,long as it idles and does not cut out . How does the 14cux cold start compare ?
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Sunday 2nd December 22:15
SILICONEKID340HP said:
How does the 14cux cold start compare ?
It works fine thanks, it has always started first time in any weather, idles ok and I have never had any problems with it (so far) in over 10 years of driving mine. I know plenty of other owners who would say exactly the same.Ok, it will never start from cold and idle like a Lexus, but who cares, if you cannot deal with that for a mile or so you need to learn how to drive, not another ECU.
It seems to me that a lot of reliability issues people have with their TVRs are as a direct result of the owners "improving" them
Ribol said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
How does the 14cux cold start compare ?
It works fine thanks, it has always started first time in any weather, idles ok and I have never had any problems with it (so far) in over 10 years of driving mine. I know plenty of other owners who would say exactly the same.Ok, it will never start from cold and idle like a Lexus, but who cares, if you cannot deal with that for a mile or so you need to learn how to drive, not another ECU.
It seems to me that a lot of reliability issues people have with their TVRs are as a direct result of the owners "improving" them
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