Got my chim today!!!
Discussion
s all day!chris1972 said:
So this isn't normal... 
I'll check the connection. It dips momentarily, but regains pressure on the run...
Got me worried now...
Dont worry too much, either faulty connection of sender, as long as the pressure does'nt drop to zero dont worry too much, but sounds like connection or sender. Enjoy the noise nothing better.I'll check the connection. It dips momentarily, but regains pressure on the run...
Got me worried now...
Mark
Had an oil change two days ago. Just checked the oil, clear and clean and right to the top mark of the dip stick (cold). No leaks or anything. Drives fine, sounds better.
Only seems to be when I really floor it, but quickly returns to normal afterwards. All sounds okay???
Fernies told me that it can show zero oil pressure at idle, but should be 30lbs when driving (which it is and slightly higher most of the time), so I'm wondering if it has one of those TVR 'quirks'...???
Is it possible if the sender unit is getting an increase in resistance and a drop in voltage, therefore the dial will give the wrong indication?
If it was the oil pump, then surely this would bottom out no matter what the rev range?
I've been driving it literally all day without issue. Half my friends and family want one now!!!
Only seems to be when I really floor it, but quickly returns to normal afterwards. All sounds okay???
Fernies told me that it can show zero oil pressure at idle, but should be 30lbs when driving (which it is and slightly higher most of the time), so I'm wondering if it has one of those TVR 'quirks'...???
Is it possible if the sender unit is getting an increase in resistance and a drop in voltage, therefore the dial will give the wrong indication?
If it was the oil pump, then surely this would bottom out no matter what the rev range?
I've been driving it literally all day without issue. Half my friends and family want one now!!!
Edited by chris1972 on Saturday 8th December 23:37
Bought mine from Fernies too. On the test drive, oil pressure was dropping below zero at times and when I pointed this out, Drew said they'd swap the sender during the MOT. I think they cleaned the sender contact instead and it did improve the readings somewhat. I later got it consistent by slightly squeezing the female connector and re-attatching, no probs since. Try this cheapest trick first.
fausTVR said:
Bought mine from Fernies too. On the test drive, oil pressure was dropping below zero at times and when I pointed this out, Drew said they'd swap the sender during the MOT. I think they cleaned the sender contact instead and it did improve the readings somewhat. I later got it consistent by slightly squeezing the female connector and re-attatching, no probs since. Try this cheapest trick first.
That sounds reassuring thanks... I'll give it a go. All I need is a nice dry day now!I fitted a cheap sender from EBay nearly two years ago & its been fantastically reliable.
Best of all, unlike the one TVR fitted, it actually gives you the true oil pressure.
The TVR one typically shows 30lbs of pressure at best, the Ebay one shows over 50lbs which I am reliably informed is far more like the true oil pressure of a serpentine Rover V8.
You can read all about it here.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Don't panic about your current fluctuating pressure it's almost certainly just a duff sender.
Get it sorted though, no point in having an oil pressure gauge you can't trust, much the same as having a temperature gauge that reads excessively low (like they all do).
You can fix the temp gauge reading by following the instructions here.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=118...
The oil & temp gauges are there as an early warning to help you save your engine from a catastrophic failure, before it happens!
Get them both sorted now while you can, or sure as eggs are eggs if they're not there when you need them you'll end up with a much bigger bill.
This exact scenario happened to a mate of mine just recently, if he'd had trustworthy oil an temp gauges at the time of impending doom he almost certainly could have saved his engine.
The Range Rover temp sender mod & the Ebay oil pressure sender will set you back about £20.00 all in.
IMHO having correctly functioning gauges & complete peace of mind is well worth the £20
Best of all, unlike the one TVR fitted, it actually gives you the true oil pressure.
The TVR one typically shows 30lbs of pressure at best, the Ebay one shows over 50lbs which I am reliably informed is far more like the true oil pressure of a serpentine Rover V8.
You can read all about it here.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Don't panic about your current fluctuating pressure it's almost certainly just a duff sender.
Get it sorted though, no point in having an oil pressure gauge you can't trust, much the same as having a temperature gauge that reads excessively low (like they all do).
You can fix the temp gauge reading by following the instructions here.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=118...
The oil & temp gauges are there as an early warning to help you save your engine from a catastrophic failure, before it happens!
Get them both sorted now while you can, or sure as eggs are eggs if they're not there when you need them you'll end up with a much bigger bill.
This exact scenario happened to a mate of mine just recently, if he'd had trustworthy oil an temp gauges at the time of impending doom he almost certainly could have saved his engine.
The Range Rover temp sender mod & the Ebay oil pressure sender will set you back about £20.00 all in.
IMHO having correctly functioning gauges & complete peace of mind is well worth the £20
Went for a drive this morning, partly because i wanted to know how the car cold started after changing the plugs, and partly because I love driving it.
The oil pressure per TVR stared off at 48psi, and was between 35 and 40 when the engine was hot. It did not flicker under hard acceleration.
Cold starting was a disappointment - with the hotter iridium plugs the car at first wouldn't idle at all, and then hunted between 200 and 700 rpm as the stepper motor tried to keep it going.
200 yards down the road and all was fine. How is yours at stone cold start up, COD? It looks like I just need to sit with my hoof on the loud pedal for about 30 seconds to a minute on cold start up. With the new iridium plugs driving is so much nicer, crisper acceleration, more responsive throttle pedal, smoother idling once warm.
The oil pressure per TVR stared off at 48psi, and was between 35 and 40 when the engine was hot. It did not flicker under hard acceleration.
Cold starting was a disappointment - with the hotter iridium plugs the car at first wouldn't idle at all, and then hunted between 200 and 700 rpm as the stepper motor tried to keep it going.
200 yards down the road and all was fine. How is yours at stone cold start up, COD? It looks like I just need to sit with my hoof on the loud pedal for about 30 seconds to a minute on cold start up. With the new iridium plugs driving is so much nicer, crisper acceleration, more responsive throttle pedal, smoother idling once warm.
Thanks for that. The car has hardly been used in the last few years, but had a top end rebuild from Austec in 2009 and has covered approx 6k miles since, very little really.
Would this do?
http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/par...
Or this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-Griff-Chimaera-Smith...
The fans did cut in yesterday a couple of times, but before 90 degrees (it also has an override switch). I had trouble getting the temp up that much as I was moving a lot and it was exceptionally cold. The odd occasion when the did kick in is when I had been stationary for five mins or so. It may be worth me checking the temp sender too though. Where's the best place to purchase these and which one do I want?
Also, as I'm very new to all this (not really tinkered with engines since my A-series and Pintos many years ago), where are these sender units located?
Would this do?
http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/par...
Or this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-Griff-Chimaera-Smith...
The fans did cut in yesterday a couple of times, but before 90 degrees (it also has an override switch). I had trouble getting the temp up that much as I was moving a lot and it was exceptionally cold. The odd occasion when the did kick in is when I had been stationary for five mins or so. It may be worth me checking the temp sender too though. Where's the best place to purchase these and which one do I want?
Also, as I'm very new to all this (not really tinkered with engines since my A-series and Pintos many years ago), where are these sender units located?
This is a fascinating thread, but going back to the beginning, shouldn't you be taking your new pride and joy back to Fernies and asking them to resolve the issue? They are a good dealer with a good reputation to maintain. They won't want you back in six weeks with a blown engine claim under warranty, and fiddling with things yourself in the mean time could give you a problem if you do have to claim.
I am in a similar situation right now with an Audi A8, two months into my three month warranty and needing £1500 of repairs under warranty. With my TVR, I lost reverse gear a week before the warranty expired, and the dealer paid the £500 repair bill as it was clear I was not to blame.
I am in a similar situation right now with an Audi A8, two months into my three month warranty and needing £1500 of repairs under warranty. With my TVR, I lost reverse gear a week before the warranty expired, and the dealer paid the £500 repair bill as it was clear I was not to blame.
Quietlybonkers said:
This is a fascinating thread, but going back to the beginning, shouldn't you be taking your new pride and joy back to Fernies and asking them to resolve the issue? They are a good dealer with a good reputation to maintain. They won't want you back in six weeks with a blown engine claim under warranty, and fiddling with things yourself in the mean time could give you a problem if you do have to claim.
I am in a similar situation right now with an Audi A8, two months into my three month warranty and needing £1500 of repairs under warranty. With my TVR, I lost reverse gear a week before the warranty expired, and the dealer paid the £500 repair bill as it was clear I was not to blame.
No warranty on the deal I got with them I'm afraid. Some may call me for this, but I got it at a private sale price. I'll give them a ring on Monday to ask their advice as they've been very helpful. Of course, had I paid their full asking price, then I would have got the complete package, but the car would have been substantially over my budget. When you have a budget, you have a budget. When I was looking, I ended up with two vehicles I liked both at a similar price. One was from Fernies and the other from a private sale.I am in a similar situation right now with an Audi A8, two months into my three month warranty and needing £1500 of repairs under warranty. With my TVR, I lost reverse gear a week before the warranty expired, and the dealer paid the £500 repair bill as it was clear I was not to blame.
However, the car drives perfectly if a little lumpy at low revs. The oil pressure is showing 30lbs and seems to stay around that area most of the time, but when I accelerate hard the needle shoots down before recovering. As I understand it, the oil pump is crank operated and a fairly beefy item, so I wouldn't have thought it would have been this? If I can locate the sender, then I'll give it a clean or replace and see if this sorts the issue out. I gather the sender measures the pressure and then works on current/ resistance?
Obviously, the more input and advice the better.
Edited by chris1972 on Sunday 9th December 12:40
I wouldn't worry about the lack of warranty. Like you say, when you are working to an budget you have to make some tough choices.
Even so the car needs to be fit for purpose under the sales of goods act and if the deal was done on the dealer premises you actually have a few more rights than a purely private sale.
Having said all that I wouldn't be overly concerned about the oil pressure readings you are seeing. I'd try cleaning and crimping the sender connection and failing that I'd replace the sender.
Wouldn't stop me driving it in the meantime LOL
Even so the car needs to be fit for purpose under the sales of goods act and if the deal was done on the dealer premises you actually have a few more rights than a purely private sale.
Having said all that I wouldn't be overly concerned about the oil pressure readings you are seeing. I'd try cleaning and crimping the sender connection and failing that I'd replace the sender.
Wouldn't stop me driving it in the meantime LOL
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