...and T5 boxes.
Discussion
Will *ANY* T5 gearbox fit a Chim with a T5 box or were there variations? What about gear ratios?
Mine has always baulked at any kind of hurried 2nd to 3rd gear change and I'm lining up what jobs I need to do this year.
The most pressing jobs have been done last year (ECU and outriggers) and we're looking at headlights and gearbox as being the current "top of the list" jobs to get in progress next ... so the choice is get someone to rebuild my existing box or buy a second hand box off - say - one of the TVR breakers. One breaker has four T5 boxes on there at the moment but three are from a Tuscan and one is from a Cerbie!
Any suggestions welcome as the thought of trying to strip down and rebuild a gearbox myself scares the pants off me!
Mine has always baulked at any kind of hurried 2nd to 3rd gear change and I'm lining up what jobs I need to do this year.
The most pressing jobs have been done last year (ECU and outriggers) and we're looking at headlights and gearbox as being the current "top of the list" jobs to get in progress next ... so the choice is get someone to rebuild my existing box or buy a second hand box off - say - one of the TVR breakers. One breaker has four T5 boxes on there at the moment but three are from a Tuscan and one is from a Cerbie!
Any suggestions welcome as the thought of trying to strip down and rebuild a gearbox myself scares the pants off me!
What causes the tightness mines very much the same! Had a quote of £750 to re build gearbox, is it just a trait or something broken? New oil makes it a little better. What's the root cause I'm backward with gearboxes! Oh had prop shaft UJ's greased, transmission feels much better since.
Ive just replaced my LT77 with a T5 from a TVR Tomara. The differences I have found between the TVR T5s are that there are (I think) 3 positions of the gear lever.
The T5 used on the Chimera and Griffith has a shifter fitted right at the end of the outlet shaft. To get around this TVR used an adaptor to move it closer to the bellhousing (roughly half way up the outlet assembly.)
The later TVR (Tomara, etc) has a gear lever right at the start of the outlet nose. This wont fit the Chimera as far as I can make out. I think this was used on all the later TVRs (T350, etc)
I think there is also a gearbox with the lever in the correct place (middle of the nose) but I havent seen one for sale, so I could be wrong. I would guess this would fit the Chimera.
If I had a T5 that wasnt right I would look into getting it fixed, as buying a second hand one is a bit of a risk.
Phil
The T5 used on the Chimera and Griffith has a shifter fitted right at the end of the outlet shaft. To get around this TVR used an adaptor to move it closer to the bellhousing (roughly half way up the outlet assembly.)
The later TVR (Tomara, etc) has a gear lever right at the start of the outlet nose. This wont fit the Chimera as far as I can make out. I think this was used on all the later TVRs (T350, etc)
I think there is also a gearbox with the lever in the correct place (middle of the nose) but I havent seen one for sale, so I could be wrong. I would guess this would fit the Chimera.
If I had a T5 that wasnt right I would look into getting it fixed, as buying a second hand one is a bit of a risk.
Phil
Happy New Year.
There may be slight varitions in the ratios as the top speed is higher, but this is probably governed by the diff/ final drive ratio. you will probably be able to swap the remote linkage for your original if it is different, as i doubt they made changes to the casting of the case just to move the remote
I'm pobably wrong but it makes sense to me.
There may be slight varitions in the ratios as the top speed is higher, but this is probably governed by the diff/ final drive ratio. you will probably be able to swap the remote linkage for your original if it is different, as i doubt they made changes to the casting of the case just to move the remote
I'm pobably wrong but it makes sense to me.
jamienshelly said:
Also i think it may be a common(ish) fault as mine does it too, but the finger nail marks that get left in the back of my hand or in the upholstery stop me doing it to often, lol
I just find that it spoils my perceived 'driving God' status when a quick 2nd to 3rd gear change is accompanied by a hefty1 'crunch'... 
fire drowns out the box and people think that you are the
himself. 
Its a common fault with T5 boxes, though generally the synchro between 3rd and 4th that goes. As they are getting rare now and a good eplacement box will be £400+ I wuld look at getting yours fixed. I use Bernie CTS gearboxes for mine in theracer and many also use John Reid of Grantura engineering.
ctsdave said:
Its a common fault with T5 boxes, though generally the synchro between 3rd and 4th that goes. As they are getting rare now and a good eplacement box will be £400+ I wuld look at getting yours fixed. I use Bernie CTS gearboxes for mine in theracer and many also use John Reid of Grantura engineering.
Any idea what I'd be looking at paying for a rebuild with new guts?Had a verbal quote of £ 750 for complete overhaul. Not sure if that's a good price but if you have a better box and it lasts awhile, a very good thing, had mates back when these were new and they weren't nice to the gearboxes, I think they are more precise than fast anyway, but alot are probably tired.
Fixing a broken reverse linkage on mine cost nearly £500, including taking the box out and putting it back again. So I guess £750 for a full refurb sounds reasonable to me.
My gear change is a lot smoother after fixing reverse, as Mat Smith did a proper job and greased and checked everything when he had the box out, instead of just fixing reverse.
My gear change is a lot smoother after fixing reverse, as Mat Smith did a proper job and greased and checked everything when he had the box out, instead of just fixing reverse.
Does anyone know if you can get different gear ratios fitted into the t5?
I have the longer 3.25 (?) final drive and like the length of gears 1, 2 & 5, but would like to shorten 3 & 4 to give a more close-ratio effect. I figure that the simplest way to do this is to change the ratios within the gearbox, if it's possible to get hold of the appropriate ratio...?
Thanks
Dom
I have the longer 3.25 (?) final drive and like the length of gears 1, 2 & 5, but would like to shorten 3 & 4 to give a more close-ratio effect. I figure that the simplest way to do this is to change the ratios within the gearbox, if it's possible to get hold of the appropriate ratio...?
Thanks
Dom
Iirc Quaife do a close ratio, infact I think they will throw together whatever you ask for.
http://www.burtonpower.com/5-speed-kit-borg-warner...
http://www.burtonpower.com/5-speed-kit-borg-warner...
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