srevice items and the need for a contortionist!
Discussion
I am in the process of servicing the chimaera and was struggling with the following - any suggestions?
1. fuel filter - tucked up in the chassis above the rear diff. Is there an easy way of removing this, at one point last night I thought I was going to have to drop the exhaust and diff just to get at the filter! Much skint knuckles and swearing eventually enabled me to remove it, but there must be an easier way? (as a aside the one I took off had a 1998 date written on in pen - so much for the stamped TVR service history that came with the car!)
2. Gearbox Oil - any top tips on how to fill the box (borgwarner variety) as I don't see how I can sgueeze the bottle above the gearbox and empty it's contents into it via the upper hole ion the space available.
3. BTR rear diff - where do you drain oil from and put oil into this diff - I cannot see any obvious studs/plugs that would be used for this purpose. Also any tips on where to track down this unusual mobil oil with the strange rating.
All advice gratefully received.
Colin
1. fuel filter - tucked up in the chassis above the rear diff. Is there an easy way of removing this, at one point last night I thought I was going to have to drop the exhaust and diff just to get at the filter! Much skint knuckles and swearing eventually enabled me to remove it, but there must be an easier way? (as a aside the one I took off had a 1998 date written on in pen - so much for the stamped TVR service history that came with the car!)
2. Gearbox Oil - any top tips on how to fill the box (borgwarner variety) as I don't see how I can sgueeze the bottle above the gearbox and empty it's contents into it via the upper hole ion the space available.
3. BTR rear diff - where do you drain oil from and put oil into this diff - I cannot see any obvious studs/plugs that would be used for this purpose. Also any tips on where to track down this unusual mobil oil with the strange rating.
All advice gratefully received.
Colin
Hi Colin,
The best way to fill the g/box and diff is to get a used i ltr oil container or similar,cut the top off attach a long length of clear tubing,as wide as possible to the nozzle.Place one end into the filler plug whilst someone fills up the container.we have gkn diff ,sorry can't help with plug locations.
We are going to do the fuel filter when we overhaul our diff next month.Can you let us have the part no for the filter.good luck
The best way to fill the g/box and diff is to get a used i ltr oil container or similar,cut the top off attach a long length of clear tubing,as wide as possible to the nozzle.Place one end into the filler plug whilst someone fills up the container.we have gkn diff ,sorry can't help with plug locations.
We are going to do the fuel filter when we overhaul our diff next month.Can you let us have the part no for the filter.good luck
Fuel filter is done on the 12k service, the exhaust has to come off anyway to lube the propshaft UJs so not normally a problem (you were going to lubricate the prop weren't you???).
Diff drain is the bottom bolt at the base of the casing/backplate. Get oil from your local dealer, I use a Millers eqivalent.
Gearbox is a pain without a pump dispenser and right-angle nozzle.
Diff drain is the bottom bolt at the base of the casing/backplate. Get oil from your local dealer, I use a Millers eqivalent.
Gearbox is a pain without a pump dispenser and right-angle nozzle.
joospeed said:
Fuel filter is done on the 12k service, the exhaust has to come off anyway to lube the propshaft UJs so not normally a problem (you were going to lubricate the prop weren't you???).
Diff drain is the bottom bolt at the base of the casing/backplate. Get oil from your local dealer, I use a Millers eqivalent.
Gearbox is a pain without a pump dispenser and right-angle nozzle.
Also, Joolz has seven elbows and should have been a vet
rude girl said:
Fuel filter is done on the 12k service, the exhaust has to come off anyway to lube the propshaft UJs so not normally a problem (you were going to lubricate the prop weren't you???).
Diff drain is the bottom bolt at the base of the casing/backplate. Get oil from your local dealer, I use a Millers eqivalent.
Gearbox is a pain without a pump dispenser and right-angle nozzle.
Also, Joolz has seven elbows and should have been a vet
wanna see my kittens Rude Girl?
Use an independent - it works out more cost effective in the end
Jod
Thanks for the advice - I rigged up some flexible tubing, old carton etc and managed to fill the gearbox single handidly (although I noticed that it appears to take around 2.5l of oil as opposed to the 2.5pints that the bible suggests)
Fuel Filters - Initially I was provided with a Fram filter G3727, but this was not the correct one. The one fitted previously was a G3829 so that is what I replaced it with, cost about £9.50.
Joolz - I am afaid after looking at the exhaust and seeing it had a sleeved joint as opposed to a flange and then reading the bible and the comment 'the exhasut system joints are likely to be corroded, which makes removing the exhaust a major operation, even needing oxyacetylene tools'! put me off. I had a look at the visible part of the UJ and it looked clean and in good condition so decided to leave the rest alone - also my car has a relatively low mileage so considered wear in this area a little unlikely - probably incorrect assumption on my part!
You said that I drain the oil from the diff by removing the bottom bolt, which bolt should I use to refill it? You also say you use a Millers equivalent but is it the required 80W - 140ID rating??
Thanks for the advice - I rigged up some flexible tubing, old carton etc and managed to fill the gearbox single handidly (although I noticed that it appears to take around 2.5l of oil as opposed to the 2.5pints that the bible suggests)
Fuel Filters - Initially I was provided with a Fram filter G3727, but this was not the correct one. The one fitted previously was a G3829 so that is what I replaced it with, cost about £9.50.
Joolz - I am afaid after looking at the exhaust and seeing it had a sleeved joint as opposed to a flange and then reading the bible and the comment 'the exhasut system joints are likely to be corroded, which makes removing the exhaust a major operation, even needing oxyacetylene tools'! put me off. I had a look at the visible part of the UJ and it looked clean and in good condition so decided to leave the rest alone - also my car has a relatively low mileage so considered wear in this area a little unlikely - probably incorrect assumption on my part!
You said that I drain the oil from the diff by removing the bottom bolt, which bolt should I use to refill it? You also say you use a Millers equivalent but is it the required 80W - 140ID rating??
Just been through all this. Did the gearbox with a large funnel with a long flexi-tube attached from under the bonnet via the gap betwwen inner wing (drivers side) and bell housing (ie just in front of bulkhead). Easy peasy.
Same funnel and tube did the diff but this time I threaded the tube over the top of the chassis/suspension gubbins and out via the drivers side rear wheel arch.
The drain is the very bottom bolt (the head has a larger flange on mine...oo'er
) and the filler is half way up the side on the driver's side. Again not difficult if a little tight for spanner room.
Used Mobil VS500 for the diff which is a fully synthetic LSD oil originally blended for BMW applications but which is very close in formulation to the recommended stuff that was unobtainable. Try Teeside Autotech who will decant from bulk stock.
Same funnel and tube did the diff but this time I threaded the tube over the top of the chassis/suspension gubbins and out via the drivers side rear wheel arch.
The drain is the very bottom bolt (the head has a larger flange on mine...oo'er
) and the filler is half way up the side on the driver's side. Again not difficult if a little tight for spanner room. Used Mobil VS500 for the diff which is a fully synthetic LSD oil originally blended for BMW applications but which is very close in formulation to the recommended stuff that was unobtainable. Try Teeside Autotech who will decant from bulk stock.
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