Regular garage vs specialist for RV8

[chris1972]

I'm posting a lot here at the moment!

I have heard various opinions about this. I intended to take my 500 to a TVR specialist before the onset of summer and when funds allow, but I've spoken to a couple of TVR owners that have said the RV8 can be serviced at pretty much any decent garage without paying 'TVR tax'.

I really want a good engine service doing. My local indie (whom I have used for many years) would obviously be cheaper than a specialist. What would a specialist do that is different? I appreciate that it would be down to knowledge of the vehicle, but are the Chims and Griffs that specialised?

Cheers
Chris

[jamienshelly]

Hi Chris. If you trust your indie and if you explain what you want doing, as a 6000 mile service is very comprehensive if you look at a schedule, you should be ok, but when you look at labour rates and knowledge i think the specialists win hands down as an indie will have to work out how to check certain things and wont be as quick ( air filter for example). specialist labour rates are not that high when you look at what you get, (sussex tvr rate is £67.50 inc).
So for time and peace of mind the specialist wins, if you only want the oil and filter changing then indie would do ( unless they forget to prime the oil pump and run the engine with no oil pressure).
Others may agree or dissagree but that is what the forums about
Hope this helps.
Jamie

[Bassfiend]

A specialist is great and I do agree with you however there are a couple of caveats ... some of the "specialists" I've used seem to still be of the mindset that TVR owners are bottomless pits as far as cash is concerned and also believe that "it'll be ready by" dates are of as much relevance as saying "How are you?" as a greeting.

I've had work done by Neil Garners and they were very good but a bit too far away for me to use regularly and I currently use Lloyds Specialist Developments in Warminster - they're not a TVR specialist as such but their work seems so far to be top notch and both the lads that run the company run TVRs (or TVR engined vehicles) themselves.

On the other hand in the past I've used another specialist who has left me without a clue as to what a bill would end up being when some additional work was needed, who ended up taking almost four weeks for some work that should have taken a week (but I'd allocated two just to be safe as I knew that he was a bit lax on scheduling) and finally did some suspension / steering work for me without correctly resetting the geometry afterwards (or telling me that it needed doing) which resulted in my completely killing a set of front tyres (to the point that they were through to the steel belts) in a couple of months.

So I'd say getting a workshop that you trust with your life (as well as with your pride and joy) is more important than simply using a "specialist" ...

[jamienshelly]

I agree with you Phil, and i think the keywords are "Trust with your life and pride and joy" and reputation goes a long way too. I am sure there are enough people on here that can advise and recommend good indies as well as fair specialists in any part of the country.

Jamie

[2 sMoKiN bArReLs]

Specialist or no. It all depends on the relationship you can build with the garage. There's good & bad in both types.

[Alun Ivor]

Totally agree with that last comment, something's are best left to specialist as they have the nack, our cars with there old engines, loads of good mechanics know them well, it's all the Tvr traits I wonder about, depends on the job, mostly our cars have simple components put together difficultly? Mainly get someone you can trust!

[Dodsy]

I always use a TVR specialist for servicing as it includes a comprehensive inspection of the whole car that really does need to be done by someone who knows these cars.

Odds and sods my local mechanic does. Things like changing the starter motor (for example) can be done by any garage , it is after all an engine thats used in many other vehicles.

[Meths]

I use a TVR specialist. They tend to be cheaper because they can get the job done in half the time of my local garages.

On the other side, my local indie has completely stripped a steering rack, replaced a washer and put it back together again for 1/4 of the price of a new rack. He's a proper old school mechanic. Everywhere else wanted to replace it. It's all about who you know.

Edited by Meths on Sunday 6th January 16:58

[Oldred_V8S]

Chris

I see you are in Kent. If you are able to get to the Maidstone area, you could do a lot worse than use Dan Taylor at Aylesford.

[Quietlybonkers]

Yes......I agree with a lot said on both sides of this, but I personally feel that TVR experience is crucial. Its a high performance track/race/road car.
A TVR specialist will know where to get parts, which manufacturer makes the parts that come from other motor manufacturers, how to spot chassis issues, how to set the car up, what issues to look for etc etc.
Even the garage I bought my Audi from told me to take it to an Audi specialist. I feel the same is appropriate for my TVR.
My expert charges £50 an hour for the use of his facilities, specialist tools and specialist knowledge. A bargain. People bring their cars 100 miles and more to be serviced by him. The last Sagaris he serviced before Christmas needed its suspension sorting. The owner posted on here when he got home - he could barely believe it was the same car, it was so improved..

[portzi]

Well Chris you have had loads of arguments , for and against specialist and indie, so its make your mind up time. I will not give you any advice as there is more than enough in these posts. When you have decided repost after your service and work complete, to tell us how they have done, whether good or bad, but DON'T name the company if its a poor job, as there is a very strict name and shame policy on here.

Good luck
Mark

[jamienshelly]

6000 mile service for TVR chimaera













TVR Chimaera Servicing 6000 Miles

Austec Racing currently offers the services below for TVR Cerbera's:



Carry out preliminary Test Drive


Check Seat Belts operation and mountings


Check operation of all electrical systems (including Alarm and Air Conditioning)

Remove all road wheels and apply anti-seize compound to hubs and wheel studs

Check Hand Brake operation and lever security; adjust and lubricate if necessary

Visually inspect brake Pads for wear, callipers for leaks and condition of Flexi-Hoses

Measure and record Brake Disc thickness


Offside Front (mm)


Nearside Front (mm)

Offside Rear (mm)

Nearside Rear (mm)

Carry out Brake Fluid Boiling Point test and record result

Check Brake Fluid Level

Visually check fuel, clutch, brake pipes and unions for chafing, corrosion and correct routing

Visually check all drive shafts

Visually check Diff mounting bolts

Change fuel filter

Change gearbox oil

Change engine oil and filter

Change Diff oil

Check / top up gearbox oil

Check / top up diff oil

Check Exhaust System Condition

Check condition of steering joints, rack gaiters, ball joints and wishbone bushes

Check for fluid leaks from hydraulic pipes and unions (Power Assisted Steering only)

Visually check tyres/ road wheels for damage; record tyre tread depth and refit to original position.

Visually inspect all suspension fixings for security

Visually check complete underside of vehicle for faults and abnormalities

Visually check security of manifold bolts

Check security of Rocker Covers

Change Spark Plugs

Check Distributor Cap, Ignition leads and low tension leads for deterioration

Check Crank sensors for debris

Check Engine Sensor Connections for Corrosion

Check Drive Belts condition; Adjust /Change if required

Check Air Cleaner element

Remove Air Filter, inspect, clean and apply protective oil

Check the condition of the engine and gearbox mounting rubbers

Check throttles and linkage operation and lubricate where possible

Check / adjust Throttle Stop

Check / top-up Power Assisted Steering Fluid (where applicable)

Check / top up Clutch Fluid

Change Clutch Fluid

Check / top up windscreen washers and check wiper blades for condition

Check Master Cylinder and under bonnet grommets are sealed; reseal if required

Check Engine breather/ hoses for security and condition

Check / adjust ignition timing and carbon emissions with engine operating at temperature

Check/ Adjust engine setting on Computer with engine at operating temperature

Pressure Check Cooling system, for leaks. Hoses for security

Check Cooling Fan operation

Check / adjust tyre pressure (including spare wheel)

Check headlight alignment and aux lights if fitted

Visually check front and rear tyres evidence of uneven tyre wear due to incorrect tracking or camber settings

Wash wheels, repaint brake callipers and discs where applicable

Check / lubricate all hinges, doors, boot and bonnet locks and catches

Road test vehicle

Visually check steering wheel is centralised

Carry out Service Valet

Stamp Service Book.












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Edited by jamienshelly on Sunday 6th January 23:14

[jamienshelly]

Sorry its not to clear my first full page cut and paste and its taken me half an hour to do