Crank Pully Wheel Removal
Discussion
Finally got round to upgrading my fuel only megasquirt system to wasted spark ignition.
Plan is to fit the trigger wheel first. However it looks as though once the centre bolt is undone, the removable chassis crossmember will obstruct the removal of the complete unit.
I thought it may be possible to remove the front pulley section by undoing the 6 13mm bolts, and then removing the balancing section, without having to remove the crossmember and Y piece.
Has anyone tried this or able to confirm if it is possible?
Plan is to fit the trigger wheel first. However it looks as though once the centre bolt is undone, the removable chassis crossmember will obstruct the removal of the complete unit.
I thought it may be possible to remove the front pulley section by undoing the 6 13mm bolts, and then removing the balancing section, without having to remove the crossmember and Y piece.
Has anyone tried this or able to confirm if it is possible?
I had to remove my water pump pulley as well, but that's probably because of the supercharger installation. Phazed is right, just take the cross member out and undo the centre bolt. I used the JE trigger wheel and had it balanced by JE, then put the whole thing back as a single assembly. IMO it was the best trigger wheel kit to fit
Managed to get the cross member out, put the car in 4th, chocked the wheels but can't shift the centre bolt, as the car is just moving backwards against the Chocks.
Will have another go tomorrow when the wife's about and get her to hold the brakes on. hopefully that will shift it. Otherwise might have to take it to a local garage.
Will have another go tomorrow when the wife's about and get her to hold the brakes on. hopefully that will shift it. Otherwise might have to take it to a local garage.
angus99 said:
Managed to get the cross member out, put the car in 4th, chocked the wheels but can't shift the centre bolt, as the car is just moving backwards against the Chocks.
Will have another go tomorrow when the wife's about and get her to hold the brakes on. hopefully that will shift it. Otherwise might have to take it to a local garage.
Couldnt get mine to undo doing this either. Tried to undo the crank pulley bolt with a socket on the end of a long breaker bar whilst my wife sat in the drivers seat with two feet on the brake pedal and I still managed to get the car to move across the garage floor in gear. It was quite alarming as the 4ft breaker bar I was using was also bending under the strain.Will have another go tomorrow when the wife's about and get her to hold the brakes on. hopefully that will shift it. Otherwise might have to take it to a local garage.
Got a cordless impact wrench and it did the job in seconds
Edited by Marty V8 on Sunday 20th January 21:53
Not much luck with the crank pulley, started to worry I would snap the breaker bar. or damage something.
Might have to try an impact wrench, although to get access I'll have to remove the Y piece and Exhaust first , which I was trying to avoid. Really need to get the trigger wheel fitted so that I can get the ECU sent over to Phil to ad the spark drivers.
On a positive note I did manage to fit the P38 coil packs behind the plenum, with a minor mod to the Bracket. so at least I now know this fits.
Trial fit
Plenum Temporarily replaced to judge clearance
Might have to try an impact wrench, although to get access I'll have to remove the Y piece and Exhaust first , which I was trying to avoid. Really need to get the trigger wheel fitted so that I can get the ECU sent over to Phil to ad the spark drivers.
On a positive note I did manage to fit the P38 coil packs behind the plenum, with a minor mod to the Bracket. so at least I now know this fits.
Trial fit
Plenum Temporarily replaced to judge clearance
Finally got the pulley off. Combination of an electric heat gun and breaker bar extension ( £3.85 steel table leg from B&Q) did the trick. Also had to remove the other pully above it to get it out.
Next hassle is dismantling the pulley assembly. My 13mm 1/2" drive socket won't fit, and I can't get enough leverage with the 1/4"drive sockets. Should be easy enough to sort out tomorrow though.
Next hassle is dismantling the pulley assembly. My 13mm 1/2" drive socket won't fit, and I can't get enough leverage with the 1/4"drive sockets. Should be easy enough to sort out tomorrow though.
angus99 said:
Finally got the pulley off. Combination of an electric heat gun and breaker bar extension ( £3.85 steel table leg from B&Q) did the trick. Also had to remove the other pully above it to get it out.
Next hassle is dismantling the pulley assembly. My 13mm 1/2" drive socket won't fit, and I can't get enough leverage with the 1/4"drive sockets. Should be easy enough to sort out tomorrow though.
Where is your trigger wheel sensor mounted ? Mine seems very close the the exhaust ! is that normal.Next hassle is dismantling the pulley assembly. My 13mm 1/2" drive socket won't fit, and I can't get enough leverage with the 1/4"drive sockets. Should be easy enough to sort out tomorrow though.
phazed said:
angus99 said:
Next hassle is dismantling the pulley assembly. My 13mm 1/2" drive socket won't fit, and I can't get enough leverage with the 1/4"drive sockets. Should be easy enough to sort out tomorrow though.
The engine bolts are AF so a 1/2" AF socket will fit better.
a 3/8 drive thin walled 1/2" socket 
if you don't have one then just grind the outer case of a standard one down (always handy for the tool kit) the bolts wont be megger tight anyway I would be inclined to renew that C/S bolt now especially yours being a 500 model 
just for insurance 
Edited by Sardonicus on Tuesday 22 January 10:55
Had a go at fitting the sensor and trigger wheel today, but had a couple of problems.
loosely fitted the trigger wheel, on the crank and then trial fitted the sensor so that I could mark the position relative to TDC.
Then repositioned the trigger wheel so that the missing tooth was located 50deg Ahead of the sensor. As shown below
White mark is TDC, brown mark is the position of the sensor with the engine at TDC, so missing tooth should be at fifty degrees?)
Thought this was correct, but now not so sure as the bolt holes don't match up. Additionally the location pin that goes though the assembly obstructs the trigger wheel from fitting flush to the
loosely fitted the trigger wheel, on the crank and then trial fitted the sensor so that I could mark the position relative to TDC.
Then repositioned the trigger wheel so that the missing tooth was located 50deg Ahead of the sensor. As shown below
White mark is TDC, brown mark is the position of the sensor with the engine at TDC, so missing tooth should be at fifty degrees?) Thought this was correct, but now not so sure as the bolt holes don't match up. Additionally the location pin that goes though the assembly obstructs the trigger wheel from fitting flush to the
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