Looks like its my alternator...
Looks like its my alternator...
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chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Friday 25th January 2013
quotequote all
... and battery. Had a chap from a major breakdown recovery service come out today to get my wife's car started (loose 'clip-on' battery terminal... French car!).

Anyway, he was a big fan of the TVR and kindly tested my battery and alternator for me. The current battery is completely U/S. tested at 6v, won't hold a charge and swollen, sulphur on terminal which would suggest overcharging and perhaps leaking of gas. He connected a new battery and the car started as per normal, but the battery warning light remained on. Tested the alternator and couldn't get a reading from it. Tested the terminals at the battery and anderson connector in the engine bay which read 12.x and all seemed fine, so it appears that the alternator may have given up the ghost.

Before I replace both the battery and the alternator, can I just double check that the 100amp fuse has nothing to do with this? Also, will any Landrover V8 Alternator do (without TVR tax)?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-T...

I was considering one of the AGM batteries as the fibreglass battery box in my car isn't secured and the mounting holes blocked up. I was thinking that the AGM battery would hold up to vibration and movement more. I know people have used and recommended them, but is this with a standard alternator or will I need something with a higher output?

Thanks

phazed

22,509 posts

234 months

Friday 25th January 2013
quotequote all
If there is npower from the rear of the alternator then it's Kaput.

If there was power there but no increase at the battery when the engine is running then your fuse is down.

As to altenator, a L/R 4.0 or 4.6 is fine but ideally try and find an OE one.

phazed

22,509 posts

234 months

Friday 25th January 2013
quotequote all
My choice, but sometimes more is less!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-0-4-6-...

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Friday 25th January 2013
quotequote all
Thanks again Peter!

It looks as if the bolts in the floor pan have been sheered off in the past and only about 10mm of the stubs remain, possibly due to a previous leaky battery. There's a bit of discolouration of the carpet which may suggest this. It is quite tight in there. Do you think that it is essential that these bolts are 'in' if the box area is well padded out and secure?

Would post a picture, but Thumbsnap is down again...


Andav469

966 posts

167 months

Friday 25th January 2013
quotequote all
Why not look for a local specialist that will recondition your current unit, this approach will save you money and ensure you have a correct Alternator

TV8

3,545 posts

205 months

Friday 25th January 2013
quotequote all
Try a local autofactors for the alternator. Take the part number with you though. They first used the registration number for mine and it was 3 times the price of the answer that came up for the part number!

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Friday 25th January 2013
quotequote all
Thanks, have been under the bonnet and got the part number, but will check out both options. The recovery chap said exactly the same thing... go by part number! Seems to be A127iM 100A, but have only come across lower Amp equivalents at the moment. Do you know if these need a Lucas specific connector?



This is the issue with the battery box



Underneath
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Floor bolts