still not fixed. urgent help needed please
Discussion
Urgent help required. Afters the tvr broke down by losing all power then engine died, i thought id fixed it with help from you guys on here but its still broke. So I played around with the relays, swapped both of them for new ones now it appears the problem isnt fixed actually, it will start and run for about a minute then die, I have tried various different relay combinations still the same happens. It sounds fine when running and reving but then the revs drop and it cuts out. It seems like it cuts the fuel... Please any ideas.......
Please note that all these problems started last week once I swapped the battery. Is it possible I trapped a wire and its causing this? Maybe I knocked a certain connection which could cause this? Maybe a blown fuse, although I would have thought it wouldn't start at all if this was the case but correct me please if im wrong?
Please note that all these problems started last week once I swapped the battery. Is it possible I trapped a wire and its causing this? Maybe I knocked a certain connection which could cause this? Maybe a blown fuse, although I would have thought it wouldn't start at all if this was the case but correct me please if im wrong?
Just some general thoughts.
If the car starts, runs then dies, if you just leave it with the ign on (perhaps CAREFULLY bleeding some fuel off from the fuel rail) does the pump run to build pressure?
Are your fuel hoses ok
Fuel pump supply goes via the immobiliser and inertia switch - are these ok?
If the car starts, runs then dies, if you just leave it with the ign on (perhaps CAREFULLY bleeding some fuel off from the fuel rail) does the pump run to build pressure?
Are your fuel hoses ok
Fuel pump supply goes via the immobiliser and inertia switch - are these ok?
I havent tried driving the car, this is what its doing just idling on the drive way (or not as the case may be!)
Does the inherta switch allow the car to start tho and then cut off? Surely it cuts all supply to the pump? The immobiliser seems ok, once it cuts out I dont think it needs resetting straight away but possibly. I dont know how long after you turningn off ignition till the immobiliser turns back on. It. Could be immobiliser issues I suppose. Its almost like it starts with a choke and then turns the pump off once warm enough to run, thats just what it seems like, like a change over switch runs fine then switchs over and theres no pump supply.
Can you bypass thd immobiliser easily to test if it is immobiliser issues?
Does the inherta switch allow the car to start tho and then cut off? Surely it cuts all supply to the pump? The immobiliser seems ok, once it cuts out I dont think it needs resetting straight away but possibly. I dont know how long after you turningn off ignition till the immobiliser turns back on. It. Could be immobiliser issues I suppose. Its almost like it starts with a choke and then turns the pump off once warm enough to run, thats just what it seems like, like a change over switch runs fine then switchs over and theres no pump supply.
Can you bypass thd immobiliser easily to test if it is immobiliser issues?
Run it, when it dies put your hand on the ignition coil.
Is it hot to the touch?
If so replace the coil, it's failing.
If not check the fuel pump in the same way, is it over heating?
If not, put a bulb across the terminals, start the car, does the bulb go out when the car dies?
If so, investigate the loss of live feed to the pump, suspect the immobiliser.
Is it hot to the touch?
If so replace the coil, it's failing.
If not check the fuel pump in the same way, is it over heating?
If not, put a bulb across the terminals, start the car, does the bulb go out when the car dies?
If so, investigate the loss of live feed to the pump, suspect the immobiliser.
If the above doesn't help it may be worth seeing if someone nearby has an ecumate or roverguage.
It sounds like the ecu is not getting a signal to say the engine is running (which I think comes from the coil) so it doesn't start the fuel pump once the engine is running.
ecumate or roverguage will show you if the fuel pump isn't running up (or if there are other faults). It's possible that you've disturbed a connection for the ecu or something similar.
It sounds like the ecu is not getting a signal to say the engine is running (which I think comes from the coil) so it doesn't start the fuel pump once the engine is running.
ecumate or roverguage will show you if the fuel pump isn't running up (or if there are other faults). It's possible that you've disturbed a connection for the ecu or something similar.
Rovergauge software and cable is only £35
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...
Comes with idiot-proof instructions
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...
Comes with idiot-proof instructions
I have never used any sort of ecu diagnostic tool thingy so when you say idiot proof instructions just how idiot proof is it? my girlfriends dad is a AA man would he likely have this ecu tool or is it a bit more specialised than that?
I assume buying this will pretty much guarantee to find the problem? If so I will definitely buy it
I assume buying this will pretty much guarantee to find the problem? If so I will definitely buy it
rburnham11 said:
I have never used any sort of ecu diagnostic tool thingy so when you say idiot proof instructions just how idiot proof is it? my girlfriends dad is a AA man would he likely have this ecu tool or is it a bit more specialised than that?
I assume buying this will pretty much guarantee to find the problem? If so I will definitely buy it
idiot proof as regards setting it up. But it will only find the answer if it is the fault described in Colin's post. I have the kit, but haven't used it yet. I had a cold start problem, but now have a warm idle fault! I assume buying this will pretty much guarantee to find the problem? If so I will definitely buy it
Girlfriend's dad will have numerous bits in his van and can probably find the fault for you. Rovergauge is an ODB 1 cable and software. He might well have an ODB 1 tester.....it is the diagnostic standard before the present ODBC 2 that is what garages use to read fault codes.
Where in Essex are you?
I have never used any sort of ecu diagnostic tool thingy so when you say idiot proof instructions just how idiot proof is it? my girlfriends dad is a AA man would he likely have this ecu tool or is it a bit more specialised than that?
I assume buying this will pretty much guarantee to find the problem? If so I will definitely buy it
I assume buying this will pretty much guarantee to find the problem? If so I will definitely buy it
How about the petrol tank not venting properly so as the car is running a vacuum is building up in the tank and after the minute or so, the vacuum becomes too high for the pump to overcome ?
Immediately after the car dies, try opening the fuel cap and see if you get a rush of air going into the tank. If you do, next thing to try would be running it with the cap off or just balanced on the top and see if that stops the cut out - make sure nothing can fall into the tank whilst you're doing that and keep boot open to vent the fumes away and definitely no smoking !
Do any of the other electrics die at the same time ? E.g. try the headlamps after the engine dies.
If it were the immiboliser, I wouldn't think you'd be able to start the car up again straight away. Probably likewise for the coil if you did try to start up again immediately.
Immediately after the car dies, try opening the fuel cap and see if you get a rush of air going into the tank. If you do, next thing to try would be running it with the cap off or just balanced on the top and see if that stops the cut out - make sure nothing can fall into the tank whilst you're doing that and keep boot open to vent the fumes away and definitely no smoking !
Do any of the other electrics die at the same time ? E.g. try the headlamps after the engine dies.
If it were the immiboliser, I wouldn't think you'd be able to start the car up again straight away. Probably likewise for the coil if you did try to start up again immediately.
Drop me your email address and Ill send you the instructions for Rovergauge if you want something to read. As for the OBD socket- this is pretty much pre anything the generic commercial diagnostic readers will read- there is the Lucas Lazer, Lucas test book, RoverCom, Hawkey, ECUmate, and RoverGauge that will read it.
So I had a look earlier today. I unbolted the battery box (still connected) slid it forward, pulled the ecu and all its wiring forward. Then went to start it and it started and it continued to run too, so then I bolted the battery box back in leaving the ecu and wiring pulled forward and started it again and it was fine again and continued to run, so next I went to tuck the ecu away and then it died. I think it must be a loose connection or something on the ecu wirining loom. Tomorrow I plan to investigate further. Im going to try to upload a picture of the wiring just so if something looks out of place to a more familiar eye.
rburnham11 said:
So I had a look earlier today. I unbolted the battery box (still connected) slid it forward, pulled the ecu and all its wiring forward. Then went to start it and it started and it continued to run too, so then I bolted the battery box back in leaving the ecu and wiring pulled forward and started it again and it was fine again and continued to run, so next I went to tuck the ecu away and then it died. I think it must be a loose connection or something on the ecu wirining loom. Tomorrow I plan to investigate further. Im going to try to upload a picture of the wiring just so if something looks out of place to a more familiar eye.
Ok so it's not fixed yet rburnham11, but it sounds like you've found the area causing the fault.Faults it the loom are not that uncommon TBH, it's why I went for a new loom when I changed my engine management system.
It's not really a surprise when you think about it, the loom in our cars are now anything from 13 to 20 years old, and during that time they are subjected to a lot of heat, vibration and often moisture if the car has leaked.
Bassfiend229hp had a very similar problem to you, his Chim would just cut out randomly when driving, I believe just before his 14CUX system was removed he found fault & was able to replicate it by moving the ECU loom.
Good luck finding & replacing faulty wiring/connector & congratulations for finding the problem so quickly.
Others have spent months & a lot of money at TVR specialists getting to where you are now.
Update and good news. I found and fixed the problem. It was a black connector with black wires in and black wires out just jumpering across. When moved slightly it killed the fuel pump and car dies, as the wires just seemed to connect one wire through to the other I cut the connector off and put the wires into a electrical connectors then put links across the terminals again to match what was there orginally. Worked a treat and no more cutting out.
rburnham11 said:
Update and good news. I found and fixed the problem. It was a black connector with black wires in and black wires out just jumpering across. When moved slightly it killed the fuel pump and car dies, as the wires just seemed to connect one wire through to the other I cut the connector off and put the wires into a electrical connectors then put links across the terminals again to match what was there orginally. Worked a treat and no more cutting out.
Confucius say... "When working on TVR all black wires end at immobiliser"
Confucius also say... "TVR immobiliser (and it's associate wiring) is bag of poo poo"
Carl Baker says.... "For years I made a nice little business out of how TVR fitted their alarm systems"
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff