Later chim bottom rad hose routing...
Later chim bottom rad hose routing...
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Discussion

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Saturday 16th February 2013
quotequote all
Could someone with a later chim help me out with some photos?

If possible I need some pics of the routing for the bottom radiator hose - what route it takes from leaving the radiator (which I believe is on a straight exit rather than the "almost 90 degree bend" of the earlier cars), through the chassis and up to the engine including how the lower heater hose joins it...

Cheers

Phil

Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Saturday 16th February 2013
quotequote all
There is a 90 degree bend in the rad pipe and the hose that joins it also has a 90 degree bend. If I remember tomorrow I will take some pictures for you.

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Saturday 16th February 2013
quotequote all
Mr Supercharged said:
There is a 90 degree bend in the rad pipe and the hose that joins it also has a 90 degree bend. If I remember tomorrow I will take some pictures for you.
That'd be great if you could - mine is an earlier vehicle that has the rad hose come up in front of the chassis rails and over the top and - as I'm wanting to fit the later fan cowlings that my car doesn't have - that doesn't leave much room for the cowlings and the fans betore they encroach on the coolant hoses. Just want to see how the later cowlings, fans and hoses all fit in. biggrin

Cheers

Edited by Bassfiend229hp on Saturday 16th February 21:52

Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Images as requested....


Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all

Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all

Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Bassfiend229hp said:
Mr Supercharged said:
There is a 90 degree bend in the rad pipe and the hose that joins it also has a 90 degree bend. If I remember tomorrow I will take some pictures for you.
That'd be great if you could - mine is an earlier vehicle that has the rad hose come up in front of the chassis rails and over the top and - as I'm wanting to fit the later fan cowlings that my car doesn't have - that doesn't leave much room for the cowlings and the fans betore they encroach on the coolant hoses. Just want to see how the later cowlings, fans and hoses all fit in. biggrin

Cheers

Edited by Bassfiend229hp on Saturday 16th February 21:52
If that doesn't answer your question let me know and I will take more pictures. cheers...

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Mr Supercharged said:
Images as requested....

OK - so yours comes out of the rad exit hose and then does a *FLAT* right angle bend?

Mine comes out and a silicone bend turns immediately upwards to meet with a formed metal pipe that sits over the top chassis member and has a 90 degree bend in it that then heads downwards to meet with that silicone hose...

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Mr Supercharged said:
...and from there it then loops *UP* over the steering rack to come up between the between the two chassis crossmembers and sort of hooks over the second crossmember with the bottom heater hose joining the metal pipework between the botom and top chassis rails...

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Mr Supercharged said:
...and then finally meets up with the water pump bottom hose connector as normal?

Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
So are the pics ok? Or do you need more? yes it is a flat right angle bend, one in the rad pipe and one in the bottom hose.

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Mr Supercharged said:
So are the pics ok? Or do you need more? yes it is a flat right angle bend, one in the rad pipe and one in the bottom hose.
Absolutely fantastic fella! Thanks so very much... biggrin

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Right - so I reckon that, as the silicone hose kits are the same for the pre and post-97 varients you can simply swap the old preformed metal pipework for the new one with no hassle as below (the white squares are representing the two top chassis crosmember tubes)...




Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
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If you are going to order the second one from ACT see if you can get a discount and order 2, I'll have one! Did you see the rust on my old mild steel one! :-)

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Mr Supercharged said:
If you are going to order the second one from ACT see if you can get a discount and order 2, I'll have one! Did you see the rust on my old mild steel one! :-)
I did ... mine's an early style one which was *FAR* worse than that when I got the old girl. I rubbed it back and painted it with some blue enamel paint which hasn't lasted badly but is starting to show some brown blooming through the paint now...

OK - I'll mail Tim and see if he'll do anything on a pair. biggrin

(Of course, as he's showing -3 in stock then this might not be a goer... wink )

phazed

22,509 posts

234 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
Don't know what the answer is Phil but I got a new set of ACT hoses on the shelf that I am fitting this week.

It's not useful but Jim Beam said I had to post!

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Sunday 17th February 2013
quotequote all
I already have the ACT silicone hoses fitted. Be aware that the top thermostat housing to swirl pot hose *MAY* be the wrong one and there's two elbows that are almost identical except for one is a reducer elbow which needs to go on the bottom water pump inlet.

If you want the right reducing elbow on the thermostat housing to swirl pot then ACT'll charge you for the hose rather than swapping it for the correct one.

It's the later style metal hose that I need. biggrin

What I'm trying to do is get a bit more space to play with between the radiator and the front of the chassis so that I can get later style radiator cowlings to try to increase the efficiency of the radiator fans (and then maybe add in a couple of the hefty Tuscan radiator fans as well) - but with the rad hose routing up in front of the chassis rail there isn't enough room to do that. biggrin

Bassfiend229hp

Original Poster:

5,530 posts

280 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
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Just received my ACT later style bottom pipe ...

... however, just wondering whether it would be possible to simply rotate the right angle silicone hose that joins onto the water pump housing by 90 degrees, pass it *UNDER* the rearmost crossmember rather than over and then simply use a straight pipe to connect the two hoses? I'd need to patch in a "T" to join in the lower heater return pipe but that shouldn't be difficult ... Just need to find somewhere that sells the bits to build up your own coolant runs ...

Could be just the puppy! http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/38mm_Welded_Alu... - just need to check the diameters. biggrin

Edited by Bassfiend229hp on Thursday 21st February 22:58

KateV8

448 posts

182 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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As an aside but related to the topic, I changed my radiator yesterday and had to change the bottom hose too. This because the old rad, the type with plastic sides, had a bottom outlet pipe which came straight out with no bend whereas the new one (an ally from Radtech) had a 90 degree elbow. So my existing bottom hose wouldn't fit but fortunately I had access to a silicone one made for a Tamora which was perfect. Just a warning to anyone binning the plastic-sided rad, check you don't need a new hose to go with the replacement before you remove anything.

Mr Supercharged

499 posts

187 months

Friday 22nd February 2013
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I never knew that some of the rads were plastic........are you sure that was an original rad?