Electric Window Sticking Closed
Discussion
Hi All,
Finally got round to attempting to fix my drivers side electric window which had been stuck shut for a while. Operating the switch produced a faint sound from the motor but no movement of the window.
Checked voltage at motor - 12.5V.
Removed motor from regulator, spins quickly in both directions when switch operated.
With motor still removed, manually moved window up and down, seems to move smoothly enough.
Refit motor, operate switch, window moves up and down.
Success, or so I thought, because after a couple of up/down cycles the window sticks again right at the top and refuses to budge even while pushing down on it with the swith pressed.
So, remove motor again, manually move window, refit motor, works again til you hit the very top.
Repeat the line above til bored!
Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? New motor? New regulator mechanism? Take the regulator out and grease it up (did this a while ago when I replaced the window rubbers, although it wasn't sticking then just a bit slow)?
Cheers,
Rob.
Finally got round to attempting to fix my drivers side electric window which had been stuck shut for a while. Operating the switch produced a faint sound from the motor but no movement of the window.
Checked voltage at motor - 12.5V.
Removed motor from regulator, spins quickly in both directions when switch operated.
With motor still removed, manually moved window up and down, seems to move smoothly enough.
Refit motor, operate switch, window moves up and down.
Success, or so I thought, because after a couple of up/down cycles the window sticks again right at the top and refuses to budge even while pushing down on it with the swith pressed.
So, remove motor again, manually move window, refit motor, works again til you hit the very top.
Repeat the line above til bored!
Does anyone have any suggestions on what to try next? New motor? New regulator mechanism? Take the regulator out and grease it up (did this a while ago when I replaced the window rubbers, although it wasn't sticking then just a bit slow)?
Cheers,
Rob.
As electric windows are relatively simple the issue is either electical in nature (insufficient vpower being supplied to the motor or a defective motor) or mechanical (linkage or "sliders").
It's safe to say that both are "marginal" on the Chim, on a good day there is sufficient current available to the moror for it to move the window up and down evn a "worn" runner. On a bad day either the wear is such that the motor needs to pull more current than the stock wiring can provide or the motor itself is marginal and needs more current anyway.
The rubber runners do wear out (mainly as the window travel is not completely "straight" and the runners are). Sometimes lubricating the rubber with a silicone can help - but don't use an oil based lubricant (so NO WD40 for example) as this will impregnate the rubber and cause it to expand making things worse over a very short period of time.
If the wear has gone beyond that then you're better off replacing the rubber in the runners as new rubber has a felt liner that creates less friction and gives the motor an easier time.
You could also add 2 relays per side to the existing wiring to provide more power to the motor, it's often the quickest/simlpest method used.
You (obviously) need to provide a new 12V feed to each relay and just use the 2 smaller diameter "switch" wires to trigger the relay (one for up, one for down) that provides a direct 12v connection to the motor allowing it to draw more current and overcome the issues of worn/badly aligned runners.
One thing i don't know for sure and it would be worth knowing in advance is whether there is a limiter built into the motor assembly - does anyone know? If there is then it could just be that your limiter needs adjusting although TBH it should only cut power off to one side of the motor when it hits a limit (i.e. you should not be able to force the motor BEYOND the limiter) so in theory that ought not be the case with your problem...
It's safe to say that both are "marginal" on the Chim, on a good day there is sufficient current available to the moror for it to move the window up and down evn a "worn" runner. On a bad day either the wear is such that the motor needs to pull more current than the stock wiring can provide or the motor itself is marginal and needs more current anyway.
The rubber runners do wear out (mainly as the window travel is not completely "straight" and the runners are). Sometimes lubricating the rubber with a silicone can help - but don't use an oil based lubricant (so NO WD40 for example) as this will impregnate the rubber and cause it to expand making things worse over a very short period of time.
If the wear has gone beyond that then you're better off replacing the rubber in the runners as new rubber has a felt liner that creates less friction and gives the motor an easier time.
You could also add 2 relays per side to the existing wiring to provide more power to the motor, it's often the quickest/simlpest method used.
You (obviously) need to provide a new 12V feed to each relay and just use the 2 smaller diameter "switch" wires to trigger the relay (one for up, one for down) that provides a direct 12v connection to the motor allowing it to draw more current and overcome the issues of worn/badly aligned runners.
One thing i don't know for sure and it would be worth knowing in advance is whether there is a limiter built into the motor assembly - does anyone know? If there is then it could just be that your limiter needs adjusting although TBH it should only cut power off to one side of the motor when it hits a limit (i.e. you should not be able to force the motor BEYOND the limiter) so in theory that ought not be the case with your problem...
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