Discussion
Similar problem myself, thoroughly the clean face of the speedo sensor and the dog tooth wheel, and then reset the gap. This can be a bit of trial and error.
There is no defined measure[i cant find one in the s/heath bible] but too big a gap and your speedo will not work, or work intermittently.
Make sure the sensor face and dog tooth wheel are not touching as this can damage the sensor.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
All the above is in reference to the sensor being mounted on the diff.
Some of the earlier cars have a different set up.
There is no defined measure[i cant find one in the s/heath bible] but too big a gap and your speedo will not work, or work intermittently.
Make sure the sensor face and dog tooth wheel are not touching as this can damage the sensor.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
All the above is in reference to the sensor being mounted on the diff.
Some of the earlier cars have a different set up.
TJC46 said:
Similar problem myself, thoroughly the clean face of the speedo sensor and the dog tooth wheel, and then reset the gap. This can be a bit of trial and error.
There is no defined measure[i cant find one in the s/heath bible] but too big a gap and your speedo will not work, or work intermittently.
Make sure the sensor face and dog tooth wheel are not touching as this can damage the sensor.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
All the above is in reference to the sensor being mounted on the diff.
Some of the earlier cars have a different set up.
Mine is mounted on drivers side drive shaft the gap is ment to be as close as you can get it but not touching about 2 thow of an inch and check that there's no movement on the toothed wheel have to get muilti meter out and check the voltage when the drive wheals ar turningThere is no defined measure[i cant find one in the s/heath bible] but too big a gap and your speedo will not work, or work intermittently.
Make sure the sensor face and dog tooth wheel are not touching as this can damage the sensor.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
All the above is in reference to the sensor being mounted on the diff.
Some of the earlier cars have a different set up.
jojackson4 said:
..the gap is ment to be as close as you can get it but not touching about 2 thow of an inch
Thats 0.05 mm! I never understand this ~ do you expect the wheels to be absolutely perfect? The smaller the gap the greater the multiplication of any differences in the tolerances of separate teeth on the wheel ~ whether diameter or width? If you move away a little you minimize those differences and get a smoother signal, as well as diminish the risk of mechanical contact. maybe also a interesting read when you have jumping dials or other faulty measurements?
came across this interesting read that could make sense in some cases...
http://classicstabilizers.webs.com/information.htm
came across this interesting read that could make sense in some cases...
http://classicstabilizers.webs.com/information.htm
website said:
A vehicles supply voltage varies considerably depending the state of charge of the battery, the engine speed and the loads, such as any lamps and motors, that are operating.
The Fuel, Temperature and Oil gauges all work by measuring a voltage put out by a sender that responds to fuel level, water temperature or oil pressure respectively. Hence, any variation in the supply voltage will cause changes in the readings of the gauges.
In order to overcome this problem, an attempt was made to stabilize the voltage supplied to the gauges using a rather crude method that was necessary before the availability of robust semiconductor devices.
A standard voltage stabilizer used in many classic vehicles is intended to regulate the voltage to the gauges at about 10 Volts. It does this by monitoring the input voltage and should it find it to be higher than 10 Volts, as it normally would be, then it temporarily removes the supply to the gauges.
The gauges are so highly damped, that is slow in responding, that the voltage supply can be interrupted for a few seconds without noticeable effect.
If the voltage stabilizer were accurate, which it is not, then it would ideally maintain an average voltage of about 10 Volts although in reality the gauges actually receive full voltage for some of the time and none for the balance.
For example, if the car is running with a good battery at reasonable speed, a voltage of 13.0 Volts might well be seen at the regulator. The regulator should therefore switch off for a few seconds and then switch on again so that the on to off ratio is about 77%:23% and the average voltage the gauges see is 77% of 13.0 Volts = 10 Volts.
Similarly, the stabilizer should respond to a 11.5 Volt input, say when the vehicle is stationary with the ignition on, by being on for about 87% of the time and off for the remainder. In reality, the regulator is both not very accurate, and results in the gauges cycling up and down as it switches on and off. This is particularly noticeable when the fuel gauge is reading toward empty.
The Fuel, Temperature and Oil gauges all work by measuring a voltage put out by a sender that responds to fuel level, water temperature or oil pressure respectively. Hence, any variation in the supply voltage will cause changes in the readings of the gauges.
In order to overcome this problem, an attempt was made to stabilize the voltage supplied to the gauges using a rather crude method that was necessary before the availability of robust semiconductor devices.
A standard voltage stabilizer used in many classic vehicles is intended to regulate the voltage to the gauges at about 10 Volts. It does this by monitoring the input voltage and should it find it to be higher than 10 Volts, as it normally would be, then it temporarily removes the supply to the gauges.
The gauges are so highly damped, that is slow in responding, that the voltage supply can be interrupted for a few seconds without noticeable effect.
If the voltage stabilizer were accurate, which it is not, then it would ideally maintain an average voltage of about 10 Volts although in reality the gauges actually receive full voltage for some of the time and none for the balance.
For example, if the car is running with a good battery at reasonable speed, a voltage of 13.0 Volts might well be seen at the regulator. The regulator should therefore switch off for a few seconds and then switch on again so that the on to off ratio is about 77%:23% and the average voltage the gauges see is 77% of 13.0 Volts = 10 Volts.
Similarly, the stabilizer should respond to a 11.5 Volt input, say when the vehicle is stationary with the ignition on, by being on for about 87% of the time and off for the remainder. In reality, the regulator is both not very accurate, and results in the gauges cycling up and down as it switches on and off. This is particularly noticeable when the fuel gauge is reading toward empty.
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