Reversing - CO sensor? & Diff ? & Gearbox ? (steering too)
Discussion
I had a blast today, top off; with my daughter in the passenger seat; about 60 mins of just getting to know the new car. Wonderful. Really good fun - handles super, like each peg is planted. Breathtaking at times.
However.. some questions...If I may so soon start my insane queries!? Advice and comments on the follwing are really appreciated!
Firstly, there is a whine; sounds like a subtle, yet firm metalic whine from center rear quarter; diff or some transmission I do not know. Might even be a normal sound amplified by a cavernous boot.
Secondly, second gear is a b
h; not as bad as other cars I have driven, but certainly harder to get in and out of compared to the other gears - 3rd (surprisingly) is super smooth compared to others; which makes me think of linkage rather than gearage, if that makes sense.
Thirdly, After a faultless blast and some stops too, to test starting, we returned home and whilst reversing up the drive the car stopped dead. No whimper, no cough - no judder, it just stopped. My immediate thought was I was using too low a rev in reverse and had stalled (but... I would have thought to stall an engine of this size would exhibit an enormous THUMP! - or does it have a clever clutch?) anyway, after stopping it would not restart, ignition had all lights on and starter motor would not flinch. Like an emobiliser. I called and texted the old owner to check (like a sad lost ex girlfriend, sorry mate) that I hadn't missed something stupid. Anyway, I went inside prepared some juice for little one and went over the road to ask for a push up the remainder of my drive and low and behold the old dear fired into life like nothing was ever wrong.
I suspect a CO sensor may have triggered with my tepid (only second time ever reversing her) but a CO sensor on a T plate?
I am gonna get new Gear oil and Diff oil - was going to do engine too - but after thinking dipstick was showing zero... it just turned out to be bloody clean (call me cynical but is this good or bad!? I am used to black oil full of filings!)
Thanks for you help chaps and chapess
Zach
Also steering... Assisted - I recall PAS in my youth driving Renault 5 GTt and rover/MG maestro 2.0t - assists in parking but not a lot else. - just didn't feel linear to me; no wobble or loss of composure, just not like a modern fly by wire that you get used too...
However.. some questions...If I may so soon start my insane queries!? Advice and comments on the follwing are really appreciated!
Firstly, there is a whine; sounds like a subtle, yet firm metalic whine from center rear quarter; diff or some transmission I do not know. Might even be a normal sound amplified by a cavernous boot.
Secondly, second gear is a b
h; not as bad as other cars I have driven, but certainly harder to get in and out of compared to the other gears - 3rd (surprisingly) is super smooth compared to others; which makes me think of linkage rather than gearage, if that makes sense.Thirdly, After a faultless blast and some stops too, to test starting, we returned home and whilst reversing up the drive the car stopped dead. No whimper, no cough - no judder, it just stopped. My immediate thought was I was using too low a rev in reverse and had stalled (but... I would have thought to stall an engine of this size would exhibit an enormous THUMP! - or does it have a clever clutch?) anyway, after stopping it would not restart, ignition had all lights on and starter motor would not flinch. Like an emobiliser. I called and texted the old owner to check (like a sad lost ex girlfriend, sorry mate) that I hadn't missed something stupid. Anyway, I went inside prepared some juice for little one and went over the road to ask for a push up the remainder of my drive and low and behold the old dear fired into life like nothing was ever wrong.
I suspect a CO sensor may have triggered with my tepid (only second time ever reversing her) but a CO sensor on a T plate?
I am gonna get new Gear oil and Diff oil - was going to do engine too - but after thinking dipstick was showing zero... it just turned out to be bloody clean (call me cynical but is this good or bad!? I am used to black oil full of filings!)
Thanks for you help chaps and chapess
Zach
Also steering... Assisted - I recall PAS in my youth driving Renault 5 GTt and rover/MG maestro 2.0t - assists in parking but not a lot else. - just didn't feel linear to me; no wobble or loss of composure, just not like a modern fly by wire that you get used too...
Edited by zacherynuk on Saturday 9th March 20:52
Whine could be normal as some diffs do emit a noise some don't, just had mine replaced as it had a noise which was hard to pinpoint, not a bearing but deff a noise, my new one is silent in comparison, try changing the oil or even checking the level first.
Gear change should be smooth on all, possibly a linkage issue as they can wear I believe.
Not starting after use, possible the famous hot start problem whereby poor thin cable suffers from voltage drop when hot.
Yes they can cut out without much drama, certainly no clunk or thud when they decide to do so.
Tvr pas is not like mainstream makers you might be used to .... gentle assist is all.
Gear change should be smooth on all, possibly a linkage issue as they can wear I believe.
Not starting after use, possible the famous hot start problem whereby poor thin cable suffers from voltage drop when hot.
Yes they can cut out without much drama, certainly no clunk or thud when they decide to do so.
Tvr pas is not like mainstream makers you might be used to .... gentle assist is all.
The whine - just could be that you are not used to hearing the fuel pump, which is behind you and to your left. As soon as you make a local TVR owning friend they will be able to help you diagnose it. You sure you didn't shut the wife in the boot? It is big enough, and that will create a persistent whine from the back corner.
No Idea why it stalled, but it can just stop like you experienced. Not re-starting when warm is classic. What you need to do depends partly on what has been done before. TVR removed the Range Rover starter relay, relying on one in the immobilser instead, but then they wired the immobiliser backwards, which means that the relay in there is ineffective. Add to that a live lead to the starter that is under-spec and has got old, and a failing immobiliser, and you have a potential non-starter. There is a lot of heat under a Chimaera bonnet, and heat increases resistance in cables and so your starter doesn't get enough power to start.
One fix is wait 20 minutes. As you found, as soon as everything cools down, it fires up. Eventually the immobiliser will fail completely.
Another is to go get the alarm/immobiliser changed. The new one will be correctly wired and so the missing relay will now be active. This is the permanent fix, but it costs. Carl Baker can do this for you if he hasn't left the country. Www.tvruk.tv will find him.
Changing the live feed to the starter may also help. Like jump leads, use a good quality cable to minimise the resistance and maximise the current to the starter when hot.
There is also a hot start mod. Google mod-wise. Costs £40, gives you the missing relay, but doesn't do the immobiliser any favours. Mine is going spare since I had the alarm/ immobiliser replaced last month, but I don't have the wiring instructions.
No Idea why it stalled, but it can just stop like you experienced. Not re-starting when warm is classic. What you need to do depends partly on what has been done before. TVR removed the Range Rover starter relay, relying on one in the immobilser instead, but then they wired the immobiliser backwards, which means that the relay in there is ineffective. Add to that a live lead to the starter that is under-spec and has got old, and a failing immobiliser, and you have a potential non-starter. There is a lot of heat under a Chimaera bonnet, and heat increases resistance in cables and so your starter doesn't get enough power to start.
One fix is wait 20 minutes. As you found, as soon as everything cools down, it fires up. Eventually the immobiliser will fail completely.
Another is to go get the alarm/immobiliser changed. The new one will be correctly wired and so the missing relay will now be active. This is the permanent fix, but it costs. Carl Baker can do this for you if he hasn't left the country. Www.tvruk.tv will find him.
Changing the live feed to the starter may also help. Like jump leads, use a good quality cable to minimise the resistance and maximise the current to the starter when hot.
There is also a hot start mod. Google mod-wise. Costs £40, gives you the missing relay, but doesn't do the immobiliser any favours. Mine is going spare since I had the alarm/ immobiliser replaced last month, but I don't have the wiring instructions.
Gearbox/diff
Change the oil for the best you can get
Just changed both in mine for millers oils
The gear box is like a new one as for diff I had no problems but am sure it's better for it
(Gear change was very Manley now it's like a modem box very smooth)
As for restart probably the immobiliser it's a learning curve you will fined all there little quicks as you go on
Good look Peter
Change the oil for the best you can get
Just changed both in mine for millers oils
The gear box is like a new one as for diff I had no problems but am sure it's better for it
(Gear change was very Manley now it's like a modem box very smooth)
As for restart probably the immobiliser it's a learning curve you will fined all there little quicks as you go on
Good look Peter
Stalling whilst the engine is idling can be down to a dirty stepper motor. When you clean it make sure you clean the seat in the housing too.
Poor gearchange could be down to incorrect gearbox oil. Should be ATF, some people have been known to use EP80/90, but the synchros were not designed for an oil this thick.
Poor gearchange could be down to incorrect gearbox oil. Should be ATF, some people have been known to use EP80/90, but the synchros were not designed for an oil this thick.
Thanks for all the replies;
Re the engine start, the car has had the hot start mod and I have tested and retested 'normal' stopping and starting (swings, petrol station etc) - I did retry straight away and thinking it could be the imboliser, I even locked and reopended the car, reapplied the fob and tried again... perhaps there is just a delay; the engine primed and all seemed ok, but nothing at all happened when starter should have engaged. Not too worried, I'll see how it pans out.
Reverse stalling / stepper motor - I was thinking the stepper motor could do with a clean as idling is lumpy and you can hear it slowly making the necessary worm adjustments; so I'll start with that!
I'll book it in to get diff and gear oil changed this week - looks too fiddly for me, seems a decent pit and a huge syringe is needed! Worth the 30-60 minutes labour probably, would you agree ?
The gears are all a bit stiff but second is the worst by a long shot (probably the most heavily used too hence my apprehension) I'll see if oil makes a good difference as has been suggested
Cheers! will update once done
Zach
Re the engine start, the car has had the hot start mod and I have tested and retested 'normal' stopping and starting (swings, petrol station etc) - I did retry straight away and thinking it could be the imboliser, I even locked and reopended the car, reapplied the fob and tried again... perhaps there is just a delay; the engine primed and all seemed ok, but nothing at all happened when starter should have engaged. Not too worried, I'll see how it pans out.
Reverse stalling / stepper motor - I was thinking the stepper motor could do with a clean as idling is lumpy and you can hear it slowly making the necessary worm adjustments; so I'll start with that!
I'll book it in to get diff and gear oil changed this week - looks too fiddly for me, seems a decent pit and a huge syringe is needed! Worth the 30-60 minutes labour probably, would you agree ?
The gears are all a bit stiff but second is the worst by a long shot (probably the most heavily used too hence my apprehension) I'll see if oil makes a good difference as has been suggested
Cheers! will update once done
Zach
The hot start mod is a good mod, but I have heard it said that it can shorten the life of an already weary immobiliser. A chat with Carl Baker might help - his number is on the website I gave you. Leave a message and he will get back to you - he doesn't take calls when he is working, or he would never get anything completed. Each complete immobiliser/alarm system is an 8-12 hour install job, so you see why.....
QBee said:
The hot start mod is a good mod, but I have heard it said that it can shorten the life of an already weary immobiliser. A chat with Carl Baker might help - his number is on the website I gave you. Leave a message and he will get back to you - he doesn't take calls when he is working, or he would never get anything completed. Each complete immobiliser/alarm system is an 8-12 hour install job, so you see why.....
Oh, the last owner had a new immobiliser fitted at same time as hot start mod - along with remote boot opener - hence my lack of real concern at the moment!zacherynuk said:
Thanks for all the replies;
Re the engine start, the car has had the hot start mod and I have tested and retested 'normal' stopping and starting (swings, petrol station etc) - I did retry straight away and thinking it could be the imboliser, I even locked and reopended the car, reapplied the fob and tried again... perhaps there is just a delay; the engine primed and all seemed ok, but nothing at all happened when starter should have engaged. Not too worried, I'll see how it pans out.
Reverse stalling / stepper motor - I was thinking the stepper motor could do with a clean as idling is lumpy and you can hear it slowly making the necessary worm adjustments; so I'll start with that!
I'll book it in to get diff and gear oil changed this week - looks too fiddly for me, seems a decent pit and a huge syringe is needed! Worth the 30-60 minutes labour probably, would you agree ?
The gears are all a bit stiff but second is the worst by a long shot (probably the most heavily used too hence my apprehension) I'll see if oil makes a good difference as has been suggested
Cheers! will update once done
Zach
Get the right oil some gearboxes use auto oilRe the engine start, the car has had the hot start mod and I have tested and retested 'normal' stopping and starting (swings, petrol station etc) - I did retry straight away and thinking it could be the imboliser, I even locked and reopended the car, reapplied the fob and tried again... perhaps there is just a delay; the engine primed and all seemed ok, but nothing at all happened when starter should have engaged. Not too worried, I'll see how it pans out.
Reverse stalling / stepper motor - I was thinking the stepper motor could do with a clean as idling is lumpy and you can hear it slowly making the necessary worm adjustments; so I'll start with that!
I'll book it in to get diff and gear oil changed this week - looks too fiddly for me, seems a decent pit and a huge syringe is needed! Worth the 30-60 minutes labour probably, would you agree ?
The gears are all a bit stiff but second is the worst by a long shot (probably the most heavily used too hence my apprehension) I'll see if oil makes a good difference as has been suggested
Cheers! will update once done
Zach
The Borg Warner T5 definitely uses ATF and was designed to use it.
Any Mercon 5 compatible ATF will be fine.
Might be worth draining a little fluid from the gearbox and checking the colour. If its red then it's right in a T5 box. Not sure about the older SD1 box.
Any Mercon 5 compatible ATF will be fine.
Might be worth draining a little fluid from the gearbox and checking the colour. If its red then it's right in a T5 box. Not sure about the older SD1 box.
Edited by debaron on Sunday 10th March 16:36
zacherynuk said:
QBee said:
The hot start mod is a good mod, but I have heard it said that it can shorten the life of an already weary immobiliser. A chat with Carl Baker might help - his number is on the website I gave you. Leave a message and he will get back to you - he doesn't take calls when he is working, or he would never get anything completed. Each complete immobiliser/alarm system is an 8-12 hour install job, so you see why.....
Oh, the last owner had a new immobiliser fitted at same time as hot start mod - along with remote boot opener - hence my lack of real concern at the moment!Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff