Oil query, what to use?
Oil query, what to use?
Author
Discussion

ybt1982

Original Poster:

2,639 posts

230 months

Monday 11th March 2013
quotequote all
Thanks to SILICONEKID350HP, I have found out that my recently purchsed 5w-40 may be a bit thin for the old girl.

I can't seem to find consistent information on what oil to use, 10w-50, 10w-60, 15w-60 all seem to come up in searches. Car is a 1998 450 and is largely standard but upcoming cam change along with a few other light mods.

Don't mind spending the cash to get it right, Millers, Mobil 1, Fuchs etc. all seem to be coming in at £50ish for 5 litres. Am I correct in thinking I will need around 7 litres?

Nick

SILICONEKID350HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Monday 11th March 2013
quotequote all
If you want fully synthetic just go to Halfords and pick up some Mobil 10w60

http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/carengineoil...

I use valvoline 20w50 VR1 ,i`m tryiing Morris 15w50 classic motorsport oil .. Both mineral.

It`s up to you but don`t go any lighter than 10



Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Monday 11th March 22:22

jojackson4

3,049 posts

167 months

Monday 11th March 2013
quotequote all
Ring millers
Got all my oil from them
Engine / diff/gearbox all for £95
Mine took 5 1/2 L
There tech gents will tell you what you knead

Dr Mike Oxgreen

4,466 posts

195 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
My car is serviced by a very highly respected TVR specialist in south Oxfordshire, and they use a 5W-40 semi synth. It's safe to say they know their TVRs, and I don't lose sleep over the oil they've used.

Provided you're using a good quality oil, and it has high levels of zinc (ZDDP), then frankly it doesn't matter whether it's semi or full synthetic, and the precise weight doesn't matter that much either.

That said, personally I think 15W-60 or 20W-60 sounds a bit too heavy for our climate. Remember: it's not unheard of for our cars to be started up when it's -5C or even down to -10C, and those heavier oils will not be flowing so well in the first few minutes in those conditions.

My choice of top-up oil, FWIW, is a 10W-50 full synthetic (Fuchs). I think that's a good compromise between cold winter starting and hot summer running (if you go where it doesn't piss with rain constantly).

Mine gets a service with the 5W-40 in the winter, and then the top-ups gradually thicken the oil through the summer. I've never seen tickover pressure below 30psi (now that I've replaced the oil sender with one that actually works), even stuck in a jam in 40C heat.

Seriously, 5W-40 is fine. 10W-50 is fine. Even the 15W-60 and 20W-60 are probably fine too if you're totally disciplined about limiting the revs until the oil's warmed up (which you should do anyway).

pk500

1,975 posts

242 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
I got 5w-50 fully synthetic in mine !

ybt1982

Original Poster:

2,639 posts

230 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
Top post Dr Oxgreen thumbup

I've got a habit of getting over excited and buying the first thing that I come across smile I really should research more first, especially with such a wealth of knowledge on these forums smile

chris1972

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
There are loads of opinions about this. I was advised by Fernies to use 10-15w. They use 10w60 fully synthetic. Halfords had an offer on Mobil recently, so I purchased 5 litres of Mobil for about £36.

K4TRV

1,819 posts

282 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
These guys will help you and supply not only engine oil, but filter/wipers/cleaners/polish etc

Monthly Sale items and/or free postage, gives very good value and fast postage.

Opie

HTHs

Trev

ybt1982

Original Poster:

2,639 posts

230 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
K4TRV said:
These guys will help you and supply not only engine oil, but filter/wipers/cleaners/polish etc

Monthly Sale items and/or free postage, gives very good value and fast postage.

Opie

HTHs

Trev
Great site yes

Just bought 10 Litres of Millers 10w-50 thumbup

macdeb

8,759 posts

285 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
Can't myself see the benefit of a water- like synthetic oil. I do actually know an engineer that worked on the development of the 4.6 serp'. He swears by Valvoline VR1.

wuckfitracing

991 posts

173 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
10-40 Semi syn. Raced on it for years and never blew an engine. Regular changes always a plus

pac1uk

272 posts

221 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
My Chim was serviced before I got it and its got Castrol 10w-40 semi-synthetic.

My view on engine oil was that now the engine has got a good few thousand miles on it and its not a modern engine. Then using Mobil 1 fully synthetic is just too light (and watery!).

I thought light fully synthetic is more suited to modern engines with tighter tolerances, Turbo engines which need an oil which can cope with higher temperatures and not break down.

I am not a professional so this could be total garbage.

Eurocarparts.com re doing 25% of service parts inc. Oil.


Sardonicus

19,457 posts

251 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
macdeb said:
Can't myself see the benefit of a water- like synthetic oil. I do actually know an engineer that worked on the development of the 4.6 serp'. He swears by Valvoline VR1.
So do I wink not bothered about this cold flow stuff has mines a summer toy only wink

blitzracing

6,422 posts

250 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
The VR1 is a high zinc mineral oil, the zinc acts as a backup when the oil film has sheared and the zinc prevents metal to metal contact in high load areas under harsh conditions (its sold as a racing oil). You could ask the question why would zinc be needed on a modern sythetic oil with much better shear strength in the first place? Oil shear is bad, zinc is just a work around.... The other down side of zinc is it can contaminate the catalysts if the engine burns oil, and its been removed from modern oils as an enviromental thing. Im not saying dont use it, just consider the reasons and engine use.

SILICONEKID350HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Tuesday 12th March 2013
quotequote all
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
My car is serviced by a very highly respected TVR specialist in south Oxfordshire, and they use a 5W-40 semi synth. It's safe to say they know their TVRs, and I don't lose sleep over the oil they've used.

Provided you're using a good quality oil, and it has high levels of zinc (ZDDP), then frankly it doesn't matter whether it's semi or full synthetic, and the precise weight doesn't matter that much either.

That said, personally I think 15W-60 or 20W-60 sounds a bit too heavy for our climate. Remember: it's not unheard of for our cars to be started up when it's -5C or even down to -10C, and those heavier oils will not be flowing so well in the first few minutes in those conditions.

My choice of top-up oil, FWIW, is a 10W-50 full synthetic (Fuchs). I think that's a good compromise between cold winter starting and hot summer running (if you go where it doesn't piss with rain constantly).

Mine gets a service with the 5W-40 in the winter, and then the top-ups gradually thicken the oil through the summer. I've never seen tickover pressure below 30psi (now that I've replaced the oil sender with one that actually works), even stuck in a jam in 40C heat.

Seriously, 5W-40 is fine. 10W-50 is fine. Even the 15W-60 and 20W-60 are probably fine too if you're totally disciplined about limiting the revs until the oil's warmed up (which you should do anyway).
Seen a few posts where a TVR specialist used the 0/40 oil and has a result it`s caused the engine to make a tapping noise .!

Its a 50 year old design engine ,the tolernces are the same now so why would you put a 0 or 5 oil in an old engine .

Just purchased 10L of Morris classic motorsport 15w50 ,its in direct competition to Valvoline 20w50vr1 ,still got plenty of zinc in it .. Paid £42 for 10 litres .

http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/pr...

Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Tuesday 12th March 20:19