Recommendation for a radiator
Discussion
Well my new Chim is in today for a 12,000 mile service and a check over.
It wasn't ready this evening (hope that doesn't mean expensive) but after speaking with the garage I know up to now it has had two new fuel lines fitted and a replacement drive belt fitted as the old one was slipping.
The garage have also advised that although its not leaking, the radiator is on its last legs. If that's all that's wrong with the car, I'm delighted but who knows what else will be found when it is time to pay the bill.
So, any recommendations for a replacement. I'm not looking to do track days so don't really want an uprated rad, jut a regular replacement.
Aaron radiators seem to be competitive on the Internet but I've never heard of them.
Car is a 97 450 if it makes any difference. I assume all Chims would have same rad though.
It wasn't ready this evening (hope that doesn't mean expensive) but after speaking with the garage I know up to now it has had two new fuel lines fitted and a replacement drive belt fitted as the old one was slipping.
The garage have also advised that although its not leaking, the radiator is on its last legs. If that's all that's wrong with the car, I'm delighted but who knows what else will be found when it is time to pay the bill.
So, any recommendations for a replacement. I'm not looking to do track days so don't really want an uprated rad, jut a regular replacement.
Aaron radiators seem to be competitive on the Internet but I've never heard of them.
Car is a 97 450 if it makes any difference. I assume all Chims would have same rad though.
Edited by A900ss on Wednesday 13th March 18:40
Edited by A900ss on Wednesday 13th March 18:41
For info on Aaron radiators here's another thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
You can also get your rxisting one re-cored/reconditioned, just find a local radiator reconditioner
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
You can also get your rxisting one re-cored/reconditioned, just find a local radiator reconditioner
Found the source of my water leak, the radiator was leaking. I am just replacing the water hoses with Silicon, changed the swan neck pipe for stainless steel and replacing the radiator.
I have ordered the alloy radiator from Aaron radiators, should be arriving tomorrow so can report on quality and fit tomorrow. A few guys on here have fitted Aaron radiators.
According to the Aaron website they have been going for 50 years so can't be all bad.
I have ordered the alloy radiator from Aaron radiators, should be arriving tomorrow so can report on quality and fit tomorrow. A few guys on here have fitted Aaron radiators.
According to the Aaron website they have been going for 50 years so can't be all bad.
caduceus said:
Feltham rads, and kepmston rads do great re-core jobs. Have used both and can recommend both.
What's the turnaround time for a re-core?Not sure about any real cost saving when you have 2 delivery charges but prepared to check.
Thanks.
Edited by A900ss on Wednesday 13th March 19:53
Mr Supercharged said:
The recore should cost you about £180, I've had mine done twice now in 10 years, once when I bought it and again quite recently. Once complete they paint it so it looks as good as new and is a lot cheaper than the alternatives and if the rest of the car is ok will work just fine.
This is what I've gone for at £180. I've decided to get it all done whilst the thermostat and Camshaft is being done to save a bit of labour and anti-freeze costs. Thanks for your help.
Colin RedGriff said:
For info on Aaron radiators here's another thread
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
You can also get your rxisting one re-cored/reconditioned, just find a local radiator reconditioner
As above.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
You can also get your rxisting one re-cored/reconditioned, just find a local radiator reconditioner
New cores are readily available Landy parts. My 2 pieces of advice if you go down this route would be to:-
1. Replace your otter switch (screwed in to the rad) and controls the fans. They cost around £20 and once they start to fail they dont control the fans properly, and can cause overheating.
2. Mark on a piece of string the exact distance between the 2 locating holes in the body that the rad sits in and emphasise this distance to the fabricator. If the new rad is welded back together even 5mm wider than the original it wont sit back in to the mounting holes and the swear words will fly!
My recore cost around £170 including otter switch and coolant.
quattrophenia said:
As above.
New cores are readily available Landy parts. My 2 pieces of advice if you go down this route would be to:-
1. Replace your otter switch (screwed in to the rad) and controls the fans. They cost around £20 and once they start to fail they dont control the fans properly, and can cause overheating.
2. Mark on a piece of string the exact distance between the 2 locating holes in the body that the rad sits in and emphasise this distance to the fabricator. If the new rad is welded back together even 5mm wider than the original it wont sit back in to the mounting holes and the swear words will fly!
My recore cost around £170 including otter switch and coolant.
Point 2 is very important. When I bought mine it had recently had a new rad fitted. Within a couple of months it was leaking and I ended up changing for an alloy one, but with a loose fit on locating holes! New cores are readily available Landy parts. My 2 pieces of advice if you go down this route would be to:-
1. Replace your otter switch (screwed in to the rad) and controls the fans. They cost around £20 and once they start to fail they dont control the fans properly, and can cause overheating.
2. Mark on a piece of string the exact distance between the 2 locating holes in the body that the rad sits in and emphasise this distance to the fabricator. If the new rad is welded back together even 5mm wider than the original it wont sit back in to the mounting holes and the swear words will fly!
My recore cost around £170 including otter switch and coolant.
I had my Taimar rad recored two years ago, cost around £180 ish.
Ok this isn't a chim but basis is there.
Was recommended against alloy as they can't be re-worked like normal copper ones can be.
Possibly true, possibly waffle to get me to spend on a recore with them.
My new one also went from a 2 core to 5. (the company do asda for RT racing and I have the same spec apparently)
Anyway, hope you get sorted.
Ok this isn't a chim but basis is there.
Was recommended against alloy as they can't be re-worked like normal copper ones can be.
Possibly true, possibly waffle to get me to spend on a recore with them.
My new one also went from a 2 core to 5. (the company do asda for RT racing and I have the same spec apparently)
Anyway, hope you get sorted.
had mine re-cored at Harts radiatotors limited in Hertford....... recognized rad straight away without me telling him...... supply the local TVR specialists as well
turned around ready for collection next day (less then 24hrs)......
Mine needed to be recored as the fixing points for the fan is different to most chim/griffs because it is a very early one
turned around ready for collection next day (less then 24hrs)......
Mine needed to be recored as the fixing points for the fan is different to most chim/griffs because it is a very early one
Edited by Hoover. on Wednesday 20th March 20:35
I got my Griff one recored @ Arrow radiator in Melksham good job £175 plus vat looked like new when finished.
Refitted with ACT silicone and stainless hoses a first class job for a good few years at least.
I have heard that the alloy rads do run a bit cooler but do not forget that the ECU will run rich untill it reaches IIRC around 70 degrees and this will take alot longer with extra cooling plus it may even struggle to reach this on cooler days.
Unless you intend to do some track days or run in hotter climates the standard set up will work just fine.
Refitted with ACT silicone and stainless hoses a first class job for a good few years at least.
I have heard that the alloy rads do run a bit cooler but do not forget that the ECU will run rich untill it reaches IIRC around 70 degrees and this will take alot longer with extra cooling plus it may even struggle to reach this on cooler days.
Unless you intend to do some track days or run in hotter climates the standard set up will work just fine.
Had my 93 Chim one recored at my local commercial rad place in Luton for £120 a few years back. No trouble since and survived several runs to Le Mans where the corroded fan connectors usually decide to play up in the heat and traffic around Rouens! Also used Northampton rads. Any good rad place should work and they usually know / recommend any good upgrades when you show 'em your old one! They also pressure test them when done. Money well spent knowing you have a solid and unblocked rad to keep the engine cool (but not the car/driver )
Since posting this my rad has been recorded but it is just a drop in the ocean now but thanks for your input anyway
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
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