Done my sump gasket... eventually!
Discussion
And looking at it not a moment too soon. The old gasket had completely deteriorated and a lot of it had fallen back into the sump and found its way into the base of the oil pickup pipe, which probably explains why my oil light began to take a couple seconds to go out. This was probably exacerbated by me tightening the sump up a couple of times recently to stem the leaking, so I'm grateful I've done very few miles since! To be fair, other than the bits of sump gasket, the oil was spotless and pretty clean.
Cleaned everything out, put the new Ebay fibre gasket on with a good smearing Hylomar on both sides and used new bolts with spring washers to put it back on. I thought this would be a real pain to do using axel stands, but the fibre gasket made it much less fiddly as it stayed nicely in place without the need for studs to help locate it. I just supported the sump using the trolley jack and then secured using a few screw bolts, before adding the spreader plate and the remaining bolts. Started up and the oil light extinguishes almost immediately.
On with a few more jobs now... looking forward to summer, but it seems a long way off. Snow at the end of March, whatever next!?
Before:
|http://thumbsnap.com/IJDz2Vzl[/url]
After:
[url]
Cleaned everything out, put the new Ebay fibre gasket on with a good smearing Hylomar on both sides and used new bolts with spring washers to put it back on. I thought this would be a real pain to do using axel stands, but the fibre gasket made it much less fiddly as it stayed nicely in place without the need for studs to help locate it. I just supported the sump using the trolley jack and then secured using a few screw bolts, before adding the spreader plate and the remaining bolts. Started up and the oil light extinguishes almost immediately.
On with a few more jobs now... looking forward to summer, but it seems a long way off. Snow at the end of March, whatever next!?
Before:
|http://thumbsnap.com/IJDz2Vzl[/url]After:
[url]
phazed said:
I developed a leak after last Saturdays TD.
Even though the gasket hadn't been on long it was a thin nasty one.
I may try a silicon seal without a gasket as recommended by Simon and some Rover places!
Nice clean job though!
Mine was a no gasket job and still leaked and was a complete acre to get off Even though the gasket hadn't been on long it was a thin nasty one.
I may try a silicon seal without a gasket as recommended by Simon and some Rover places!
Nice clean job though!
phazed said:
I developed a leak after last Saturdays TD.
Even though the gasket hadn't been on long it was a thin nasty one.
I may try a silicon seal without a gasket as recommended by Simon and some Rover places!
Nice clean job though!
Why not try Spends idea sounds good to me. As its foam it should squash into all the imperfections and self adhesive side on the sump helps with keeping it in placeEven though the gasket hadn't been on long it was a thin nasty one.
I may try a silicon seal without a gasket as recommended by Simon and some Rover places!
Nice clean job though!
phazed said:
I developed a leak after last Saturdays TD.
Even though the gasket hadn't been on long it was a thin nasty one.
I may try a silicon seal without a gasket as recommended by Simon and some Rover places!
Nice clean job though!
If you remove the sump on an original TVR Power engine build (done 2) you will realize that they know exactly how to use the sealer correctly nice uniform bead no break off's finding their way into the pick up etc, personally I like to use a gasket but providing you use grease/oil free surfaces and run a nice thin bead (no spreading) you will get exactly what your after.Even though the gasket hadn't been on long it was a thin nasty one.
I may try a silicon seal without a gasket as recommended by Simon and some Rover places!
Nice clean job though!
On comparison to the new bolts and springs washers, my existing one were were pretty flat (more washer and less spring). And for the sake of a few quid for a new set, it seemed the common sense thing to do. I notice a lot people seem to be using Loctite etc for the bolts, whereas the new washers should hopefully keep the in place and nicely torqued.
A suggestion only!
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-SH505051
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHF331
A suggestion only!
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-SH505051
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHF331
chris1972 said:
...I notice a lot people seem to be using Loctite etc for the bolts...
You may be getting confused there... Not all the bolt holes are blind, some (particularly on the cross bolted engines) can leak oil down the threads. In the case of those you may have misread where people use thread sealant or sealant/stud lock when replacing with studs.Split spring washers are used because the clamping torque is quite low on the sump so they need a bit of help to prevent loosening, but as usual TVR gorillas will be tempted to tighten them dead flat
spend said:
You may be getting confused there... Not all the bolt holes are blind, some (particularly on the cross bolted engines) can leak oil down the threads. In the case of those you may have misread where people use thread sealant or sealant/stud lock when replacing with studs.
Split spring washers are used because the clamping torque is quite low on the sump so they need a bit of help to prevent loosening, but as usual TVR gorillas will be tempted to tighten them dead flat
Got it!Split spring washers are used because the clamping torque is quite low on the sump so they need a bit of help to prevent loosening, but as usual TVR gorillas will be tempted to tighten them dead flat
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff