Draining and bleeding PAS...
Discussion
I've just received my new PAS hoses from John Zubak.
Firstly, is this a difficult job and what is the best way to go about it? Also, once the new hoses are on, how do go about topping up and bleeding the PAS system?
Any pics you have of doing this would be great... a picture speaks a thousand words as they say!!!
Firstly, is this a difficult job and what is the best way to go about it? Also, once the new hoses are on, how do go about topping up and bleeding the PAS system?
Any pics you have of doing this would be great... a picture speaks a thousand words as they say!!!
I was wondering how you drain the PAS fluid as well, without covering everything in PAS fluid!
Once you have the new fluid in you bleed the system by turning the steering from left to right a few times, steering should get lighter. Once done check fluid and top up if required.
Also how long should PAS fluid be kept in the system before replacing? I have no idea how old mine is, it's not Cherry Red anymore, a bit Brown.
Once you have the new fluid in you bleed the system by turning the steering from left to right a few times, steering should get lighter. Once done check fluid and top up if required.
Also how long should PAS fluid be kept in the system before replacing? I have no idea how old mine is, it's not Cherry Red anymore, a bit Brown.
The easiest way is to disconnect the return pipe from the rack first and drain off into a big receptacle over a plastic sheet, followed by the high pressure pipe (the banjo connection). There's no clean way to do it...
I'd fill it, bleed it then drain off and repeat till your fluid comes out clean. It's the detritus in the oil that causes premature rack failure.
I've also fitted a Magnefine filter in the return pipe on mine.
I'd fill it, bleed it then drain off and repeat till your fluid comes out clean. It's the detritus in the oil that causes premature rack failure.
I've also fitted a Magnefine filter in the return pipe on mine.
Hi Chris
I did this last year with my Griff. I drained the reservoir by loosening the jubilee clip holding it to the plenum and tipped it into a milk carton with the top cut off. That was about all I could do to minimise spillage. When I removed the connection on the rack I tried to hold it over a container but inevitably there was some spillage, when the engine isn't running there's no pressure in the system so it doesn't spray everywhere.
Removing the pipes was straightforward except for the high pressure union on the power steering pump which was really tight and access very hard. I had to remove it from the car and put it in a vice to undo. Even then it was a struggle, I had to soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and cut off the metal pipe to get it undone.
I have the ACT manifolds and sports cats on my car and I had to remove one of the cats to get to the connections on the steering rack itself, I'd imagine with a standard cat you'd still need to get that out of the way as well.
Get yourself new banjo washers and bolt from a local hydraulics supplier for the high pressure connection at the rack. I took my old ones along with the banjo bolt and they matched them for me. Fit the high pressure connection on the rack before the return pipe. The new return pipe was a bit thicker than the old one and as ir was quite close to the cats I wrapped it in some heat-shield I had.
I refilled with new hydraulic fluid, bled it and then tipped out the contents of the reservoir and refilled. I did this a couple of times to clear any crap out of the system.
A few pictures, some more on my flicker account http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaycock/sets/7215762...
_MG_9439 by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
Steering rack pipes by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
IMG_5027 by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
Steering rack pipes by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
I did this last year with my Griff. I drained the reservoir by loosening the jubilee clip holding it to the plenum and tipped it into a milk carton with the top cut off. That was about all I could do to minimise spillage. When I removed the connection on the rack I tried to hold it over a container but inevitably there was some spillage, when the engine isn't running there's no pressure in the system so it doesn't spray everywhere.
Removing the pipes was straightforward except for the high pressure union on the power steering pump which was really tight and access very hard. I had to remove it from the car and put it in a vice to undo. Even then it was a struggle, I had to soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and cut off the metal pipe to get it undone.
I have the ACT manifolds and sports cats on my car and I had to remove one of the cats to get to the connections on the steering rack itself, I'd imagine with a standard cat you'd still need to get that out of the way as well.
Get yourself new banjo washers and bolt from a local hydraulics supplier for the high pressure connection at the rack. I took my old ones along with the banjo bolt and they matched them for me. Fit the high pressure connection on the rack before the return pipe. The new return pipe was a bit thicker than the old one and as ir was quite close to the cats I wrapped it in some heat-shield I had.
I refilled with new hydraulic fluid, bled it and then tipped out the contents of the reservoir and refilled. I did this a couple of times to clear any crap out of the system.
A few pictures, some more on my flicker account http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaycock/sets/7215762...
_MG_9439 by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
Steering rack pipes by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
IMG_5027 by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
Steering rack pipes by Colin RedGriff, on Flickr
BliarOut said:
The easiest way is to disconnect the return pipe from the rack first and drain off into a big receptacle over a plastic sheet, followed by the high pressure pipe (the banjo connection). There's no clean way to do it...
I'd fill it, bleed it then drain off and repeat till your fluid comes out clean. It's the detritus in the oil that causes premature rack failure.
I've also fitted a Magnefine filter in the return pipe on mine.
Thanks for that!I'd fill it, bleed it then drain off and repeat till your fluid comes out clean. It's the detritus in the oil that causes premature rack failure.
I've also fitted a Magnefine filter in the return pipe on mine.
Colin RedGriff said:
Hi Chris
I did this last year with my Griff. I drained the reservoir by loosening the jubilee clip holding it to the plenum and tipped it into a milk carton with the top cut off. That was about all I could do to minimise spillage. When I removed the connection on the rack I tried to hold it over a container but inevitably there was some spillage, when the engine isn't running there's no pressure in the system so it doesn't spray everywhere.
Removing the pipes was straightforward except for the high pressure union on the power steering pump which was really tight and access very hard. I had to remove it from the car and put it in a vice to undo. Even then it was a struggle, I had to soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and cut off the metal pipe to get it undone.
I have the ACT manifolds and sports cats on my car and I had to remove one of the cats to get to the connections on the steering rack itself, I'd imagine with a standard cat you'd still need to get that out of the way as well.
Get yourself new banjo washers and bolt from a local hydraulics supplier for the high pressure connection at the rack. I took my old ones along with the banjo bolt and they matched them for me. Fit the high pressure connection on the rack before the return pipe. The new return pipe was a bit thicker than the old one and as ir was quite close to the cats I wrapped it in some heat-shield I had.
I refilled with new hydraulic fluid, bled it and then tipped out the contents of the reservoir and refilled. I did this a couple of times to clear any crap out of the system.
A few pictures, some more on my flicker account http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaycock/sets/7215762...
Thanks Colin, really useful!!!I did this last year with my Griff. I drained the reservoir by loosening the jubilee clip holding it to the plenum and tipped it into a milk carton with the top cut off. That was about all I could do to minimise spillage. When I removed the connection on the rack I tried to hold it over a container but inevitably there was some spillage, when the engine isn't running there's no pressure in the system so it doesn't spray everywhere.
Removing the pipes was straightforward except for the high pressure union on the power steering pump which was really tight and access very hard. I had to remove it from the car and put it in a vice to undo. Even then it was a struggle, I had to soak it in penetrating fluid overnight and cut off the metal pipe to get it undone.
I have the ACT manifolds and sports cats on my car and I had to remove one of the cats to get to the connections on the steering rack itself, I'd imagine with a standard cat you'd still need to get that out of the way as well.
Get yourself new banjo washers and bolt from a local hydraulics supplier for the high pressure connection at the rack. I took my old ones along with the banjo bolt and they matched them for me. Fit the high pressure connection on the rack before the return pipe. The new return pipe was a bit thicker than the old one and as ir was quite close to the cats I wrapped it in some heat-shield I had.
I refilled with new hydraulic fluid, bled it and then tipped out the contents of the reservoir and refilled. I did this a couple of times to clear any crap out of the system.
A few pictures, some more on my flicker account http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaycock/sets/7215762...
Replaced my PAS hoses with the John Zubak version, what a sod of a job that was, took me 4 hours!
The high pressure hose at the bottom of the pump just would not budge and in the end I also had to resort to taking the pump off to remove it.
Once fitted there are no leaks, the bleed didn't take too long, hopefully that will never need my attention again.
Not sure about the rack though, it works fine with no leaks but there was some silver crud at the bottom of the reservoir, the car has only done 31k so hopefully a bit more life in it yet!
A pic of the U bend and braided high pressure hose from under the pump
The high pressure hose at the bottom of the pump just would not budge and in the end I also had to resort to taking the pump off to remove it.
Once fitted there are no leaks, the bleed didn't take too long, hopefully that will never need my attention again.
Not sure about the rack though, it works fine with no leaks but there was some silver crud at the bottom of the reservoir, the car has only done 31k so hopefully a bit more life in it yet!
A pic of the U bend and braided high pressure hose from under the pump
Edited by Andav469 on Saturday 30th March 20:19
Thanks!
I was going to attempt this today, but am considering doing my valley gasket, so may try and do it all at the same time as I've heard that I'll need to remove the PAS bottle to remove the rocker covers and plenum/ intake, so there's no sense in doing it twice!
I may have to start a separate thread for the the valley gasket!
I was going to attempt this today, but am considering doing my valley gasket, so may try and do it all at the same time as I've heard that I'll need to remove the PAS bottle to remove the rocker covers and plenum/ intake, so there's no sense in doing it twice!
I may have to start a separate thread for the the valley gasket!
chris1972 said:
Thanks!
I was going to attempt this today, but am considering doing my valley gasket, so may try and do it all at the same time as I've heard that I'll need to remove the PAS bottle to remove the rocker covers and plenum/ intake, so there's no sense in doing it twice!
I may have to start a separate thread for the the valley gasket!
Chris, the PAS fluid reservoir is only held in place with a jubilee clamp and can be removed without draining, I took my rocker covers off for powder coating without the need to drain the PAS system.I was going to attempt this today, but am considering doing my valley gasket, so may try and do it all at the same time as I've heard that I'll need to remove the PAS bottle to remove the rocker covers and plenum/ intake, so there's no sense in doing it twice!
I may have to start a separate thread for the the valley gasket!
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