Discussion
As Peter says you are obviously still using the old loom with your ms install. I have just made a new loom for my Emerald and every last bit of that wiring mess has gone. I now just have a couple of relays nicely tucked away out of sight.
Best thing is Daz is make a new loom or buy one already made. They are pretty straight forward really. I think Phil from extraefi does them for about £280 according to his sight. All that mess is associated with the 14cux and you dont need it.
I tried to move my fuse box whilst i was at it to behind the passenger seat but unfortunately the loom was short by about 12 inches. Decided to leave it for now as i didnt want to joint every wire to extend it. Mine is a Griff though, i think most moving the fuse box on Chims have been ok for loom length.
Best thing is Daz is make a new loom or buy one already made. They are pretty straight forward really. I think Phil from extraefi does them for about £280 according to his sight. All that mess is associated with the 14cux and you dont need it.
I tried to move my fuse box whilst i was at it to behind the passenger seat but unfortunately the loom was short by about 12 inches. Decided to leave it for now as i didnt want to joint every wire to extend it. Mine is a Griff though, i think most moving the fuse box on Chims have been ok for loom length.
Edited by carsy on Sunday 7th April 08:06
phazed said:
Daz, you still have the old loom not a replacement.
A lot of it can go but you need to know what you're doing!
+1 - every last bit of that pile of soapy-old-donkeyspunk Range Rover engine harness was taken out of mine when I had the ECU changed (mainly because it was a break in the harness that was causing all my issues) ... I went to a few places to see about getting the ECU swapped out and any of them that didn't understand why I wanted to get rid of the old harness (or simply didn't want to get rid of the old harness and instead wanted to patch into it) we're binned.A lot of it can go but you need to know what you're doing!
So glad it's all gone - my passenger footwell no longer looks like an extras' stomach from the start of "Saving Private Ryan"...
Do I need a kill switch when the battery is in the boot for insurance reasons ..could anyone recommend a decent kill switch ? cheers
I have a live feed to the starter motor also a live to the ECU and a live for the second cigar lighter which doubles up for the TomTom and Accumate charger !
Will all these need killing ?
I have a live feed to the starter motor also a live to the ECU and a live for the second cigar lighter which doubles up for the TomTom and Accumate charger !
Will all these need killing ?
Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Monday 8th April 19:42
SILICONEKID350HP said:
Why would you not want to kill the alternator.. what about killing the ECU to stop battery discharge..
Correct me if I am showing a lack of knowledge (as usual), but doesn't all this battery isolation play hell with the fuelling until the ECU gets its knickers untwisted?Bad wording by me.
The FIA switch like this
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
Prevents damage to the alternator and stops engine run on by isolating the ignition
The FIA switch like this
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
Prevents damage to the alternator and stops engine run on by isolating the ignition
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