Discussion
if you don't mind a bit of assembly work then you can save a significant sum buying the bits. Use dave mac for cv joints, come complete with boots, cans, grease, clips & bolts (though be careful here as bolts supplied to me were too short and those from another 'clever' supplier were the wrong thread). I used uprated shafts as I wanted peace of mind with the increased torques mine produces, but search around.
LWT.
LWT.
I imagine the Ford origins are likely as the joint is Granada compatible (amongst others)
Dave Mac sourced joints £49 each plus the dreaded only this week - current batch are a lightened version with radial slots milled around the circumference of the plate. Apparently specced for a one-off but the supplier liked and made a shed load.
Anyone know if the shafts will come off without disturbing the uprights (can get the car well in the air if I leave the wheels on)?
Dave Mac sourced joints £49 each plus the dreaded only this week - current batch are a lightened version with radial slots milled around the circumference of the plate. Apparently specced for a one-off but the supplier liked and made a shed load.
Anyone know if the shafts will come off without disturbing the uprights (can get the car well in the air if I leave the wheels on)?
Pupp said:
Don't know if the OEM ones are off a donor car but raceproved and Dave Mac Propshafts both offer uprated alternatives... Might need a sit down for the quote though
I've seen the price! main reason for asking if they are from a production car.lwt said:
if you don't mind a bit of assembly work then you can save a significant sum buying the bits. Use dave mac for cv joints, come complete with boots, cans, grease, clips & bolts (though be careful here as bolts supplied to me were too short and those from another 'clever' supplier were the wrong thread). I used uprated shafts as I wanted peace of mind with the increased torques mine produces, but search around.
Can you remember how snugly the shafts fitted the CV joints?I have already changed all CV joints and had the diff reconditioned. As i thought the clunk that i get when changing gear quickly was a result of this. The above work has made it better, as well as bleeding the clutch (Slave cylinder was wrong way round resulting int trapped air). But i still get a noise at the rear. When checking it again i found play between the shafts and the inner part of the CV joint. When i changed the CV joint i thought they went on a bit too easily. So i'm hoping warn shaft splines are the reason...
I'll look into the seirra parts idea.
Thanks for the info.
Pupp said:
I imagine the Ford origins are likely as the joint is Granada compatible (amongst others)
Dave Mac sourced joints £49 each plus the dreaded only this week - current batch are a lightened version with radial slots milled around the circumference of the plate. Apparently specced for a one-off but the supplier liked and made a shed load.
Anyone know if the shafts will come off without disturbing the uprights (can get the car well in the air if I leave the wheels on)?
Cheers guy's.. thats interesting will have a look Dave Mac sourced joints £49 each plus the dreaded only this week - current batch are a lightened version with radial slots milled around the circumference of the plate. Apparently specced for a one-off but the supplier liked and made a shed load.
Anyone know if the shafts will come off without disturbing the uprights (can get the car well in the air if I leave the wheels on)?
yes.. you can get them out by removing both Cv's and pushing them in.. the full assy will then come away
Edited by TVR Beaver on Wednesday 10th April 21:36
did mine up about 2 years ago.. but they have got a bit of play now... might be worth trying differant grease may be... if you do take them in bits, make sure you keep the balls with the right assy as they are sized
Edited by TVR Beaver on Wednesday 10th April 21:41
Pupp said:
Anyone know if the shafts will come off without disturbing the uprights (can get the car well in the air if I leave the wheels on)?
You should be able to remove the driveshafts without disturbing anything else on the assembly.The driveshafts are held on by cap screws (which are different for stub axle and diff ends) and with a good tool you can access through the rear of the upright.
Undo from the diff and you should be able to manoeuvre it out with minimal hassle.
lwt said:
The new CVs were a very snug fit onto the new driveshafts, no play whatsoever. Another cause of a clonk can be the top diff bush?
Thanks for the confirmation of the the fit, I thought that was how it was meant to be. When I had the diff out I had a good look at the bushes and did not detect any play. Might be worth changing the upper one just in case. Thanks for the tip.Hmmmm.... maybe my car has especially deep recesses on the uprights, or maybe you guys have different lower wishbones, but no way will mine come out unless the uprights are disturbed. Nothing like enough clearance even fully plunged. And for anyone else doing this job, essential kit includes a good long pry bar - the outer joint grips the hub flange like a flange-gripping b
d!
d! Pupp said:
Hmmmm.... maybe my car has especially deep recesses on the uprights, or maybe you guys have different lower wishbones, but no way will mine come out unless the uprights are disturbed. Nothing like enough clearance even fully plunged. And for anyone else doing this job, essential kit includes a good long pry bar - the outer joint grips the hub flange like a flange-gripping bd!
Mine wouldn't come out without unbolting the upright to hinge it out of the way either...d! Phil
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