Is Lucas ETC6660 the correct stepper motor for 400?
Discussion
The mechanics are the same between the two types, but the connector locking tab is oriented 180' around between the different types so they are not plug compatable- literally, but as long as the connector is the same- it will work OK. Watch out for nasty cheap Chinese ones on ebay- Some have the wrong lenght shafts that wont work.
zed4 said:
Well I bought the Lucas ETC6660 stepper motor as my local place had it in stock.
Fitted, cleaned the chamber and the plenum, reset the ECU and run it up. It idles perfectly, drives really smoothly, but now it stalls when I dip the clutch when moving. Argh!!
The idle should be lifted if the cars still moving-you need to check the speedo reading when the car moves- on the TVR with the ford gbox, it goes from 0 to approx 36 mph (and no more)at 3mph due to the way the speedo calibration unit works. First thing to check anyway.Fitted, cleaned the chamber and the plenum, reset the ECU and run it up. It idles perfectly, drives really smoothly, but now it stalls when I dip the clutch when moving. Argh!!
blitzracing said:
zed4 said:
Well I bought the Lucas ETC6660 stepper motor as my local place had it in stock.
Fitted, cleaned the chamber and the plenum, reset the ECU and run it up. It idles perfectly, drives really smoothly, but now it stalls when I dip the clutch when moving. Argh!!
The idle should be lifted if the cars still moving-you need to check the speedo reading when the car moves- on the TVR with the ford gbox, it goes from 0 to approx 36 mph (and no more)at 3mph due to the way the speedo calibration unit works. First thing to check anyway.Fitted, cleaned the chamber and the plenum, reset the ECU and run it up. It idles perfectly, drives really smoothly, but now it stalls when I dip the clutch when moving. Argh!!
Edit: yep, just read this on your web page. I will check tomorrow.
One other thing, now the new stepper motor is fitted, when I start the car, the engine turns, fires, revs up, then drops right down and nearly stalls, before stabilising. It didn't do this with the old stepper motor.
Edited by zed4 on Friday 12th April 21:36
zed4 said:
blitzracing said:
zed4 said:
Well I bought the Lucas ETC6660 stepper motor as my local place had it in stock.
Fitted, cleaned the chamber and the plenum, reset the ECU and run it up. It idles perfectly, drives really smoothly, but now it stalls when I dip the clutch when moving. Argh!!
The idle should be lifted if the cars still moving-you need to check the speedo reading when the car moves- on the TVR with the ford gbox, it goes from 0 to approx 36 mph (and no more)at 3mph due to the way the speedo calibration unit works. First thing to check anyway.Fitted, cleaned the chamber and the plenum, reset the ECU and run it up. It idles perfectly, drives really smoothly, but now it stalls when I dip the clutch when moving. Argh!!
Edit: yep, just read this on your web page. I will check tomorrow.
One other thing, now the new stepper motor is fitted, when I start the car, the engine turns, fires, revs up, then drops right down and nearly stalls, before stabilising. It didn't do this with the old stepper motor.
Edited by zed4 on Friday 12th April 21:36
Would also be worth looking at the long term trim using RoverGauge. I has been said that if this is out you can adjust it using the mixture screw on the side of the AFM. Both banks will not be the same so adjust until they are both zero or one is plus and the other minus by the same amount.
Steve
Chimaeraman said:
I think you will find that the ETC6660 is after market and these can give problems. The Lucas part is 73312 - if you are still having problems I would bite the bullet and go for the real Lucas part.
It came in a Lucas box, I was told it was a Lucas part. It cost enough. ETC6660 is the Land Rover part number.
Edited by zed4 on Saturday 13th April 09:23
Recent messing around with my base idle versus stepper motor position gives me around 30-40 % stepper open at idle for a stable condition so see what RoverGuage is telling you.- Also make sure you dont now have an air leak around the new stepper where it screws in- a bit of PTF tape is a good idea- small air leaks play havoc with the idle control.
Ive not managed to replicate the findings about long term trim vs the setting on the side of the AFM- although it would seem odd that Lucas would specify a value for the AFM setting for the catalyst fuel map if the setting was ignored with Lambda feedback.....
Ive not managed to replicate the findings about long term trim vs the setting on the side of the AFM- although it would seem odd that Lucas would specify a value for the AFM setting for the catalyst fuel map if the setting was ignored with Lambda feedback.....
Edited by blitzracing on Saturday 13th April 10:18
Seems to be running perfectly, for now. I removed the new stepper motor (I think there was a leak) and resealed it. Reset the ecu and cycled the ignition, everything seemed to be working as it should. Took it for a test drive, speedo is working perfectly on Rovergauge and idle is all good. No stalling, no revs climbing. Stepper motor is around 30-40%
I hope it stays that way!
Thanks,
Dan
I hope it stays that way!
Thanks,
Dan
zed4 said:
Rovergauge seems to be stuck at 56mph strangely. Even after an ECU reset. It wasn't stuck at this yesterday though.
Also, if I clamp the idle control valve pipe I can set the idle to about 500-600rpm, but then if I check it again later, it's high again.
RoverGauge holds the last value it received from the ECU if you simply power off the ignition and the readings dont update any more- not that Id think you would switch the ignition off at 56mph! Also, if I clamp the idle control valve pipe I can set the idle to about 500-600rpm, but then if I check it again later, it's high again.
The speedo calibration unit has an inputs from the transducer in the diff- the idea is when the signal comes from the diff as the car starts to move, it switches on a circuit that produces the fixed speed you see when one of these diff inputs goes "high" ( 5 or 12 volts I think ). The problem is when the car is stationary, both inputs are near 0 volts- which is fine, as long as you dont have any poor joints or stray voltages- it takes only a small voltage on the "high" input to activate the speed signal. Its a very poor design, and simply needs a couple of resistors on the input to tie the signals to the correct levels to stop them floating up in the first place. If you idle plays up again and you get a speed reading when stationary, at least you know where to look. :-)
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