Discussion
I'm just starting a rolling program of replacing items on my car. The car is coming on honeymoon for a european tour in Aug and I want to start eliminating areas of the car that are still original and potentially 18 years old that could fail. The radiator is having a re-core, valley gasket is being replaced, water pump is being replaced and I also want to replace the fuel pump. I'm fine working on the car as long as I understand and research how, why etc before I begin.
Does anyone have any tips, tricks, do's, dont's that I should follow. I've read the bible and I have to be honest when it says that you need to place an absorbant cloth beneath the warm up regulator feed pipe at the fuel distributor, then undo the union and tighten the union up again to release the pressure. I know what this means and why I need to follow it unless I want to be sprayed with fuel, however I'm not sure where this is achieved. Any help or suggestions for this or anything else you think I could address would be well received.
Please remember we all have to start somewhere and not all of us can be automotive gods.
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone have any tips, tricks, do's, dont's that I should follow. I've read the bible and I have to be honest when it says that you need to place an absorbant cloth beneath the warm up regulator feed pipe at the fuel distributor, then undo the union and tighten the union up again to release the pressure. I know what this means and why I need to follow it unless I want to be sprayed with fuel, however I'm not sure where this is achieved. Any help or suggestions for this or anything else you think I could address would be well received.
Please remember we all have to start somewhere and not all of us can be automotive gods.
Thanks in advance.
If the car has not run for some time there may well be no pressure remaining in the system.
If you assume there is, then you need to either release the fuel union at the offside rear of the inlet plenum or remove the jubilee clip on the supply hose at that location. Either way the object is to release the fuel pressure (38psi) in a controlled fashion.
Having done this you can remove the fuel pump but don't be fooled into thinking you are not still going to get soaked in petrol.
Steve
If you assume there is, then you need to either release the fuel union at the offside rear of the inlet plenum or remove the jubilee clip on the supply hose at that location. Either way the object is to release the fuel pressure (38psi) in a controlled fashion.
Having done this you can remove the fuel pump but don't be fooled into thinking you are not still going to get soaked in petrol.
Steve
I did my fuel pump recently with the help of a 4 post ramp and it was still a pretty unpleasant job. Protect your arms against the fuel, if it's above your head protect your eyes and beware that the top stud that holds the bracket to the chassis rail can snap off due to corrosion. And try not to do it with a full tank of fuel, as soon as you pull off the inlet pipe to the pump it will flow out through gravity unless you clamp the pipe. And speaking of the pipe, if everything is original consider replacing the short pieces of flexible hose either side of the pump. Other pepes on here may have had an easy time with that job but I didn't, and there were two of us doing it!
KateV8 said:
I did my fuel pump recently with the help of a 4 post ramp and it was still a pretty unpleasant job. Protect your arms against the fuel, if it's above your head protect your eyes and beware that the top stud that holds the bracket to the chassis rail can snap off due to corrosion. And try not to do it with a full tank of fuel, as soon as you pull off the inlet pipe to the pump it will flow out through gravity unless you clamp the pipe. And speaking of the pipe, if everything is original consider replacing the short pieces of flexible hose either side of the pump. Other pepes on here may have had an easy time with that job but I didn't, and there were two of us doing it!
Wise words Mark, nice car by the way I've commented on it on the chimaera facebook group. I'd love to put sp12's on but I need to do other jobs first, damn it. Thanks for the reply.Steve_D said:
If the car has not run for some time there may well be no pressure remaining in the system.
If you assume there is, then you need to either release the fuel union at the offside rear of the inlet plenum or remove the jubilee clip on the supply hose at that location. Either way the object is to release the fuel pressure (38psi) in a controlled fashion.
Having done this you can remove the fuel pump but don't be fooled into thinking you are not still going to get soaked in petrol.
Steve
Thanks Steve, the car has run brilliantly for the past 5 years and is used regularly including winter. By the sounds of it I'm pretty much quaranteed a shower, better get some plastic overalls.If you assume there is, then you need to either release the fuel union at the offside rear of the inlet plenum or remove the jubilee clip on the supply hose at that location. Either way the object is to release the fuel pressure (38psi) in a controlled fashion.
Having done this you can remove the fuel pump but don't be fooled into thinking you are not still going to get soaked in petrol.
Steve
Cheers
More important than replacing the pump itself, is to upgrade the woefully inadequate wiring that feeds it.
Replace the thin gauge stuff used by TVR with beefier 30amp 44/0.30mm 3mm² twin core thin wall.
Running twin core allows you to connect the earth wire directly to the battery.
For the first time your fuel pump will receive the volts and amps it needs to operate as designed.
The results can be a smoother less ragged hot idle, improved hot starts & a few more horse power at wide open throttle too.
Not to mention a cooler running so longer lived fuel pump.
The pump itself is good quality & very reliable, the wiring supplying it on the other hand is not.
Replace the thin gauge stuff used by TVR with beefier 30amp 44/0.30mm 3mm² twin core thin wall.
Running twin core allows you to connect the earth wire directly to the battery.
For the first time your fuel pump will receive the volts and amps it needs to operate as designed.
The results can be a smoother less ragged hot idle, improved hot starts & a few more horse power at wide open throttle too.
Not to mention a cooler running so longer lived fuel pump.
The pump itself is good quality & very reliable, the wiring supplying it on the other hand is not.
ChimpOnGas said:
More important than replacing the pump itself, is to upgrade the woefully inadequate wiring that feeds it.
Replace the thin gauge stuff used by TVR with beefier 30amp 44/0.30mm 3mm² twin core thin wall.
Running twin core allows you to connect the earth wire directly to the battery.
For the first time your fuel pump will receive the volts and amps it needs to operate as designed.
The results can be a smoother less ragged hot idle, improved hot starts & a few more horse power at wide open throttle too.
Not to mention a cooler running so longer lived fuel pump.
The pump itself is good quality & very reliable, the wiring supplying it on the other hand is not.
I will definitely look at this, do you know where the wiring runs to currently? As part of this project I'm having the battery moved to the boot to allow for extra legroom so this may be a good time to pickup earth from there.Replace the thin gauge stuff used by TVR with beefier 30amp 44/0.30mm 3mm² twin core thin wall.
Running twin core allows you to connect the earth wire directly to the battery.
For the first time your fuel pump will receive the volts and amps it needs to operate as designed.
The results can be a smoother less ragged hot idle, improved hot starts & a few more horse power at wide open throttle too.
Not to mention a cooler running so longer lived fuel pump.
The pump itself is good quality & very reliable, the wiring supplying it on the other hand is not.
Cheers
It says that you need to place an absorbent cloth beneath the warm up regulator feed pipe at the fuel distributor, then undo the union and tighten the union up again to release the pressure.
Thanks in advance.
[/quote] That bit of information is covering the K/KE Jetronic Bosch system not fitted to these cars
just leave the car standing for a period or discharge the rail pressure from the Schrader valve on the rigid steel pipe while covering the valve with a rag/cloth 
ChimpOnGas said:
More important than replacing the pump itself, is to upgrade the woefully inadequate wiring that feeds it.
Replace the thin gauge stuff used by TVR with beefier 30amp 44/0.30mm 3mm² twin core thin wall.
Running twin core allows you to connect the earth wire directly to the battery.
For the first time your fuel pump will receive the volts and amps it needs to operate as designed.
The results can be a smoother less ragged hot idle, improved hot starts & a few more horse power at wide open throttle too.
Not to mention a cooler running so longer lived fuel pump.
The pump itself is good quality & very reliable, the wiring supplying it on the other hand is not.
Totally agree with with that ,I extended the existing supply to the boot and fitted a relay . I now get 13volts to the pump. The relay just tucks in close to the speaker hidden away ,I also beefed up a new ground to the chassis from the relay.Replace the thin gauge stuff used by TVR with beefier 30amp 44/0.30mm 3mm² twin core thin wall.
Running twin core allows you to connect the earth wire directly to the battery.
For the first time your fuel pump will receive the volts and amps it needs to operate as designed.
The results can be a smoother less ragged hot idle, improved hot starts & a few more horse power at wide open throttle too.
Not to mention a cooler running so longer lived fuel pump.
The pump itself is good quality & very reliable, the wiring supplying it on the other hand is not.
At the same time you might as well change the fuel pipes from the tank to the pump and then from the pump to the filter and the last bit to the copper line.
Very satisfying job.
Just a note of caution fog66. I recently tried to change the fuel hose from the pump to the metal hairpin type pipe. With the slightest of movement the hose attached to the tank came off in my hand. Luckily I had run the fuel down and released the pressure, but had to remove the tank to fit a new hose, which had been botched before. There is also a question of the size of the hose...10mm is mention in rv8r but it Is more like 8mm.
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