Speeding the electric windows up...
Discussion
Any tips? The driver's side is slooooowwwww; whereas the pax side is good. I've had the speakers out, put some 3in1 in the little plastic cap, run some silicone spray down the guides inside the door, but the driver's side is still sloooooowwwww.
I've resorted to helping it up. I have heard that this could be a relay? Is there any way in checking this and if so, which relay?
I've resorted to helping it up. I have heard that this could be a relay? Is there any way in checking this and if so, which relay?
blueg33 said:
clean up all of the connections, check for breaks in the wires, particularly check the earth. In Ferrari 328's the trick is to increaser the gauge of the wires but that's a PITA
...or alternatively take a single heavy gauge feed into the door and then use relays to switch that feed using the existing wiring.Not easy in the doors but it's what I'm looking to do behind each headlight...
Phil
Bassfiend229hp said:
*chuckle* I tried to adjust the lift on mine last weekend and the passenger side adjuster is rusted solid! 
Phil, the master of self-deprecating double entendre.......and the only man in the west country with a rusted solid passenger adjuster that won't let him adjust the lift.....Bassfiend229hp said:
blueg33 said:
clean up all of the connections, check for breaks in the wires, particularly check the earth. In Ferrari 328's the trick is to increaser the gauge of the wires but that's a PITA
...or alternatively take a single heavy gauge feed into the door and then use relays to switch that feed using the existing wiring.Not easy in the doors but it's what I'm looking to do behind each headlight...
Phil
EGB said:
Bassfiend229hp said:
blueg33 said:
clean up all of the connections, check for breaks in the wires, particularly check the earth. In Ferrari 328's the trick is to increaser the gauge of the wires but that's a PITA
...or alternatively take a single heavy gauge feed into the door and then use relays to switch that feed using the existing wiring.Not easy in the doors but it's what I'm looking to do behind each headlight...
Phil
I've got to find somewhere to get the appropriate lengths of twelve gauge cable from (for the power feeds to the relays and the connections to the H4 blocks) but it's a really simple circuit to make up...
I was thinking of taking a nice heavy gauge feed from the back of the alternator down to something like one of these...
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/battery-c...
... down in the nosecone and then use that to provide a decent power feed to the radiator fans and the headlights.
I did find these ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290867721775?ssPageName=...
... which might be an easy way round it but that setup provides both lights fed from just one side - I was planning a bit of an overkill solution which would effectively have one of those at each side and remove the second "spur" across to the opposite side.
Cheers
Phil
jonbford said:
My drivers window was the same until I sprayed some wd40 down the red plastic cable guide tubing.
Now it works perfectly!
If you're going to do that then after a few weeks throw down some silicone grease or something like that as the WD40 is not a lubricant but it'll probably clean off the accumulated crud...Now it works perfectly!
blueg33 said:
clean up all of the connections, check for breaks in the wires, particularly check the earth. In Ferrari 328's the trick is to increaser the gauge of the wires but that's a PITA
If you re-wire with heavier gauge cable and relays that will make an incredible difference, see this thread, http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...I did it on my last Griff and they went up and down about twice as fast but there was a problem with that because the windows started ripping the rubber seal on the rear roof section. (Looking back I guess that was probably just a question of adjustment.)
I also rewired the headlights and got a substantial increase in brightness there and took that even further by replacing the original bulbs with Osram high output bulbs.
I believe the same applies to wiring for the fans and the fuel pump.
Basically on Griffs and Chim's they didn't use thick enough cabling in many areas.
A.
Edited by Argent on Thursday 25th April 10:22
Edited by Argent on Thursday 25th April 10:53
Argent said:
If you re-wire with heavier gauge cable and relays that will make an incredible difference, see this thread, http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I did it on my last Griff and they went up and down about twice as fast but there was a problem with that because the windows started ripping the rubber seal on the rear roof section. (Looking back I guess that was probably just a question of adjustment.)
I also rewired the headlights and got a substantial increase in brightness there and took that even further by replacing the original bulbs with Osram high output bulbs.
I believe the same applies to wiring for the fans and the fuel pump.
Basically on Griffs and Chim's they didn't use thick enough cabling in many areas.
A.
This is the definitive post on this subject from Argent I did it on my last Griff and they went up and down about twice as fast but there was a problem with that because the windows started ripping the rubber seal on the rear roof section. (Looking back I guess that was probably just a question of adjustment.)
I also rewired the headlights and got a substantial increase in brightness there and took that even further by replacing the original bulbs with Osram high output bulbs.
I believe the same applies to wiring for the fans and the fuel pump.
Basically on Griffs and Chim's they didn't use thick enough cabling in many areas.
A.
As he explains, the operation of so many different critical electrical components can be improved on these cars in the way described.
The only thing I'll add is you can help even further by improving the earth.
The most reliable & effective way to do that on our cars is go straight back the the negative terminal on the battery.
It's a real shame TVR didn't wire these cars better, short of making up & fitting a new loom we are left splicing in solutions to each issue.
Which while effective, is far from the ideal approach.
What it wants is a new loom with proper earth returns like you got on 1950's & 60's Mercedes Benz cars.
Mind you a 1958 190SL (Super Light), is far from Super Light
The loom alone weighs 30kg
Another tip is contained in this link: http://www.chimaerapages.com/resources_window.php
Although the inadequate wire thickness is mentioned, it doesn't state that it was replaced in this instance. Instead, the solution here was to remove the speaker and apply copper grease to the "open sided tube with a spring spiral inside which rotates when the motor is in operation." I have no idea what this is (pictures anyone?) but it seems to have doubled the window speed in this case.
In truth, the solution in all cases lies with applying the correct voltage with properly cleaned and adequately lubricated moving parts.
Although the inadequate wire thickness is mentioned, it doesn't state that it was replaced in this instance. Instead, the solution here was to remove the speaker and apply copper grease to the "open sided tube with a spring spiral inside which rotates when the motor is in operation." I have no idea what this is (pictures anyone?) but it seems to have doubled the window speed in this case.
In truth, the solution in all cases lies with applying the correct voltage with properly cleaned and adequately lubricated moving parts.
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