Coolant circulation... opnions
Coolant circulation... opnions
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Discussion

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
Okay, more on the Chim today. A different coolant was added earlier in the year and turned the nice blue coolant into a green/ brown mush. However, I disconnected the lower coolant pipes from the block and the coolant is still coming out clean and blue? Brown mush swirl pot and rad side/ blue block side. The car is cooling, but cannot understand why this coolant appears not to have circulated. It this a water pump issue or something to do with the thermostat? I'm literally going to test the stat in a couple of minutes in a cup of boiling water (have a replacement anyway).

Any ideas? confusedears

Edited by chris1972 on Monday 29th April 18:42

TV8

3,542 posts

205 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
I would flush it all out properly if it was my car and put some fresh in it.

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
TV8 said:
I would flush it all out properly if it was my car and put some fresh in it.
I will be doing that, however, I would like know if there's a potential problem. I'm in the process of replacing the valley gasket, but as I'm stripping the top part I am replacing various parts as I go. What I don't want to do is put it all back together, put fresh coolant in it and then have to take a load of stuff off again to sort something out I could have done previously, plus lose a load of coolant! If you catch my drift.

paul2000

743 posts

250 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
HI not all antifre mix i read somewhere that there are green/red/pink /blue 2 off them do not mix well i am sorry but not sure which do and which dont, the one,s that don,t it could be the 2 type of coolent you have added that don,t mix sorry i can,t be more helpful

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
You're quite right, you shouldn't mix them. It was done by the previous owner which is why I'm cleaning out and flushing.

I just need to get some insight as to whether it is just a usual thing, dodgy thermostat or knackered water pump.

K4TRV

1,819 posts

282 months

Monday 29th April 2013
quotequote all
chris1972 said:
You're quite right, you shouldn't mix them. It was done by the previous owner which is why I'm cleaning out and flushing.

I just need to get some insight as to whether it is just a usual thing, dodgy thermostat or knackered water pump.
Usual thing..................went red/pink and no sludge after 12-months.

HTHs ?

Trev

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
quotequote all
I've been running the coolant for the past couple of months since my local garage foolishly added the different coolant.

The coolant in the swirl pot/ expansion tank and radiator is now brown/ yellow.

The coolant that came from the engine block when I removed the lower hose from the block was still a clean blue.

This suggests that no coolant from the rad/ swirl pot has made it into the block? I don't seem to have any cooling issues and when connected to Rovergauge the fans kick in and the engine cools.

I can't figure out what is going on here. Is it a blockage, dodgy stat or knackered water pump? If the coolant was all the same colour throughout I wouldn't be too concerned.

ChimpOnGas

9,637 posts

209 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
quotequote all
Chris, if you're worried just remove the thermostat & thoroughly flush the block with a hose until running clean.

Separately & thoroughly flush the radiator with the hose too until also running clean.

Fill with a mix of 50% distilled water and 50% decent fresh green/blue antifreeze (dont mix with red/pink).

Or just buy something like Comma "Super Coldmaster Coolant" which is pre-blended from Super Coldmaster Antifreeze & Coolant Concentrate (so guaranteed no hard tap water in it).

Either way you want a 50/50 mix.

For the cost of it I would suggest it makes sense to replace the thermostat for a new 83 degree German "Whaler" brand one.

The most important bit then is to bleed it properly, jack the front of the car to get it as high as possible and jam a funnel in the swirl pot to create a burping header of coolant.

Don't forget to put the heater control to hot while bleeding.

Raising the front of the car really helps force the coolant around the heater matrix where pockets of air often get trapped in our cars.

Once it's all bled with a decent new thermostat fitted and one type of new 50/50 mix coolant, you'll not have any more worries.

It's a simple job for a Saturday morning, and will give you complete peace of mind your cooling system is fully serviced & in tip-top condition.

Well worth the effort.

Tinker15

175 posts

312 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
quotequote all
chris1972 said:
I've been running the coolant for the past couple of months since my local garage foolishly added the different coolant.

The coolant in the swirl pot/ expansion tank and radiator is now brown/ yellow.

The coolant that came from the engine block when I removed the lower hose from the block was still a clean blue.

This suggests that no coolant from the rad/ swirl pot has made it into the block? I don't seem to have any cooling issues and when connected to Rovergauge the fans kick in and the engine cools.

I can't figure out what is going on here. Is it a blockage, dodgy stat or knackered water pump? If the coolant was all the same colour throughout I wouldn't be too concerned.
03:26 in the morning and worried about the colour of your water. yikes I sometimes do that but only after too many pints of the local brew! biggrin

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
quotequote all
Yep, been travelling back. Got in, sat down, had a cuppa and logged on. wobble

chris1972

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

167 months

Tuesday 30th April 2013
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
Chris, if you're worried just remove the thermostat & thoroughly flush the block with a hose until running clean.

Separately & thoroughly flush the radiator with the hose too until also running clean.

Fill with a mix of 50% distilled water and 50% decent fresh green/blue antifreeze (dont mix with red/pink).

Or just buy something like Comma "Super Coldmaster Coolant" which is pre-blended from Super Coldmaster Antifreeze & Coolant Concentrate (so guaranteed no hard tap water in it).

Either way you want a 50/50 mix.

For the cost of it I would suggest it makes sense to replace the thermostat for a new 83 degree German "Whaler" brand one.

The most important bit then is to bleed it properly, jack the front of the car to get it as high as possible and jam a funnel in the swirl pot to create a burping header of coolant.

Don't forget to put the heater control to hot while bleeding.

Raising the front of the car really helps force the coolant around the heater matrix where pockets of air often get trapped in our cars.

Once it's all bled with a decent new thermostat fitted and one type of new 50/50 mix coolant, you'll not have any more worries.

It's a simple job for a Saturday morning, and will give you complete peace of mind your cooling system is fully serviced & in tip-top condition.

Well worth the effort.
Cheers for that. Thermostat out and housing back on. I have engine flush too, so will flush with a hose first and then do the hot flush when I get it all back together. Everything is taking longer than expected! I also have one of the large bore thermostats from Clever Trevor, plus a brand new genuine Landrover stat as spare (normal bore).

Every time I start a job, I either have to remove or move several things to get to what I want or have to replace something else on the way.

Why did TVR make the heating pipes in the PAX footwell like that? Surely it would have been much easier to route a hose straight under the dash and out through the side of the bulkhead. I had hoped to have those heating pipes in place and tick-off another job, but have just had to order another set of 90 degree elbows to replace the ones I had to prise off to get the footwell heating rail out. banghead


Edited by chris1972 on Tuesday 30th April 21:25