Urgent roadside help please!!
Discussion
Ok so I've just stopped my car for 5 minutes to take a phone call. When I went to start it its acting as if the battery is flat. The fuel pump is struggling to work and it keeps setting the alarm off.
I've checked the big fuse and that's fine. It's got a hot start kit fitted but I don't think that's the issue anyway.
Has this happened to anyone on here and can u point me in the right direction if possible as I'm stranded in the middle of nowhere!!
I've checked the big fuse and that's fine. It's got a hot start kit fitted but I don't think that's the issue anyway.
Has this happened to anyone on here and can u point me in the right direction if possible as I'm stranded in the middle of nowhere!!
If the 100 amp fuse lets go you should get a permanent ignition warning light with the engine running. Some times you can miss it if it does not catch your eye.
Charge the battery up and start it if you can. If you get an ignition warning light then go to the aggro of getting a long way underneath to check the fuse. If you do not get the permanent light then the problem may be elsewhere.
Charge the battery up and start it if you can. If you get an ignition warning light then go to the aggro of getting a long way underneath to check the fuse. If you do not get the permanent light then the problem may be elsewhere.
scruggs said:
If the 100 amp fuse lets go you should get a permanent ignition warning light with the engine running. Some times you can miss it if it does not catch your eye.
Charge the battery up and start it if you can. If you get an ignition warning light then go to the aggro of getting a long way underneath to check the fuse. If you do not get the permanent light then the problem may be elsewhere.
Didn't get that the twice I lost mine. You have been running on battery for about 40 miles.Charge the battery up and start it if you can. If you get an ignition warning light then go to the aggro of getting a long way underneath to check the fuse. If you do not get the permanent light then the problem may be elsewhere.
Fuse is under the car, driver's side, strapped to the chassis underside in a fuse holder. you can follow the cable down from the alternator. Fuse is logically placed if you were a TVR builder and the car is up on a hoist. To you and me it's just plain stupid.
Jack up the car as if to remove driver's side front wheel, insert axle stand, get under and find the fuse. Open the holder and inspect fuse. Test with multimeter. If you get a reading from the front end, the fuse is ok.
If you dont have a spare fuse, just undo both nuts (8mm I think) and connect the terminals together on one thread and try ignition. Car may start. Go for midi fuses off Fleabay.
Ps the fuse is about level with the back of the driver's side front wheel, so taking the wheel off gives you more access. The fuse holder is black, about two inches by one inch, will be strapped to the main driver's side lower chassis member that goes front to back. It might be wrapped in tape. You can easily get to it if you slide under on you back from the front of the car, without taking the wheel off - I did on my last track day.
Inside the fuse holder is a metal blade fuse, about one inch long, held in place by a nut at each end.
The fuse protects the charging circuit from overloads.
I would replace it with a midi fuse off EBay.
If you have a multimeter you can check it without all this faff. Multimeters are £20 from Halfrauds, or you can get the same one for £8 from Maplins. Use the volts 0-20 setting. Find the cable at the back of the alternator that heads down to side of the engine, find an earth (engine block) for the other terminal, then stick your live probe onto the terminal at the bak of the alternator, or ram it into the lead itself. If your fuse is ok, you will be able to see 12 volts coming from the battery with the ignition off.
By the way, if you can get the car started, you will get a reading of about 14.2 volts in exactly the same place if your alternator is healthy. Good double test!
Inside the fuse holder is a metal blade fuse, about one inch long, held in place by a nut at each end.
The fuse protects the charging circuit from overloads.
I would replace it with a midi fuse off EBay.
If you have a multimeter you can check it without all this faff. Multimeters are £20 from Halfrauds, or you can get the same one for £8 from Maplins. Use the volts 0-20 setting. Find the cable at the back of the alternator that heads down to side of the engine, find an earth (engine block) for the other terminal, then stick your live probe onto the terminal at the bak of the alternator, or ram it into the lead itself. If your fuse is ok, you will be able to see 12 volts coming from the battery with the ignition off.
By the way, if you can get the car started, you will get a reading of about 14.2 volts in exactly the same place if your alternator is healthy. Good double test!
Ok so it's not any of the fuses. Thanks for the alternator fuse info; I didn't t know it was there.
A friend has suggested battery failure as well. I have never heard of this being intermittent but that's not to say it can't be of course. I was aering towards the alarm because it doesn't seem able to make up its mind what to do but I don't know if its the cause or effect.
A friend has suggested battery failure as well. I have never heard of this being intermittent but that's not to say it can't be of course. I was aering towards the alarm because it doesn't seem able to make up its mind what to do but I don't know if its the cause or effect.
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