Brake Fluid Leak In Foot Well
Discussion
Pretty sure I have a brake fluid leak into the driver's foot well.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=LY3ep6DPP5o
Could somebody watch the above video and verify this and point out where it's likely to be coming from.
It's an early 93' Chim.
Cheers,
Alex
www.youtube.com/watch?v=LY3ep6DPP5o
Could somebody watch the above video and verify this and point out where it's likely to be coming from.
It's an early 93' Chim.
Cheers,
Alex
On a Chim you don't remove anything from the footwell only the clevis pin ataching the shaft to the pedal.
All the work is done through the top of the wing. Drain the cylinder, disconnect the pipes, remove the two nuts holding the cylinder in place, remove cylinder.
Makes it sound easy.
Steve
All the work is done through the top of the wing. Drain the cylinder, disconnect the pipes, remove the two nuts holding the cylinder in place, remove cylinder.
Makes it sound easy.
Steve
If the Chim is the same as my '92 Griff with the same access from above it's a proper pig of a job.
I did need to unbolt the pedal box to gain space in the wing void to jiggle the master cylinder out and in and to get it into a place where I could get spanneer access.
Give yourself a whole weekend if you do it yourself.
I did need to unbolt the pedal box to gain space in the wing void to jiggle the master cylinder out and in and to get it into a place where I could get spanneer access.
Give yourself a whole weekend if you do it yourself.
I did the job a couple of weeks ago. Actually did it twice. Once to replace the failed cylinder and again to replace the new cylinder which was defective.
You will need a 3/8" drive socket and sufficient extensions to be just longer than the master cylinder. You can then feed this down past the front end of the master and around underneath to get on the lower nut.
To put the nut back on stick it into the socket using bluetac.
Steve
You will need a 3/8" drive socket and sufficient extensions to be just longer than the master cylinder. You can then feed this down past the front end of the master and around underneath to get on the lower nut.
To put the nut back on stick it into the socket using bluetac.
Steve
Yeah that was the first thing to come off. Then all the bolts for the pedal box- wouldn't budge and the steering column is welded in the way so couldn't be arsed with that, put all the bolts back.
The access hatch has to be the most sh*tty engineering solution TVR ever devised.
Can't get anything in there!
Do I have to remove the clutch master cylinder? Cause it's right in the bloody way
I wish there was a step by step picture guide
The access hatch has to be the most sh*tty engineering solution TVR ever devised.
Can't get anything in there!
Do I have to remove the clutch master cylinder? Cause it's right in the bloody way
I wish there was a step by step picture guide

You could try to use a seal kit instead, it sometimes works. This allows you to replace the rubber washer thingy on the piston its self. All done with only disconnecting the link to the pedal and withdrawing the piston from the cylinder (drain fluid first). Part no. SP2102 from speedy spares and others.
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