Looking to Purchase my first TVR
Discussion
Hey All
Looking to purchase my first TVR. I have settled upon a Chim, probably the 400. I have looked online at loads of different ones over the past few months and the below looks like it might be worth my while going to have a look in person.
Would you (the collective you) mind having a read over the advert and see if it looks like a good bet?
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/t...
Also does anyone offer an inspection service, as a first time TVR buyer I would feel better about purchasing one with the advice and help of someone more experienced then I. Happy to pay in Beer, Champagne or Money, whatever is the preferred choice!
Thanks
Anton
Looking to purchase my first TVR. I have settled upon a Chim, probably the 400. I have looked online at loads of different ones over the past few months and the below looks like it might be worth my while going to have a look in person.
Would you (the collective you) mind having a read over the advert and see if it looks like a good bet?
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/t...
Also does anyone offer an inspection service, as a first time TVR buyer I would feel better about purchasing one with the advice and help of someone more experienced then I. Happy to pay in Beer, Champagne or Money, whatever is the preferred choice!
Thanks
Anton
Bought my first tvr a year ago,Chimaera 450 with a few tweaks. Still grin everytime i look at it, drive it!
That looks a tidy example, bonus being HC so a bit quicker. The outrigger work ,I assume means replacement, if so saved u £1500 . The down sides he mentioned, re- roof prob cost £700 for new one.seats can be brought back to nearly new with furniture clinic products for £100.
mine had hot start issue, easily sorted , and sounds like the seller has done this already.
nice shiny Leven bits.
Viper blue lovely colour.
service history looks fairly comprehensive
got to be worth a punt at £7k. I ummed and arred for years before i bought mine,,, god i wish i had done it years ago... Good luck
ps
Happy to pay in Beer, Champagne or Money, whatever is the preferred choice!
always beer in the TVR section!
That looks a tidy example, bonus being HC so a bit quicker. The outrigger work ,I assume means replacement, if so saved u £1500 . The down sides he mentioned, re- roof prob cost £700 for new one.seats can be brought back to nearly new with furniture clinic products for £100.
mine had hot start issue, easily sorted , and sounds like the seller has done this already.
nice shiny Leven bits.
Viper blue lovely colour.
service history looks fairly comprehensive
got to be worth a punt at £7k. I ummed and arred for years before i bought mine,,, god i wish i had done it years ago... Good luck
ps
Happy to pay in Beer, Champagne or Money, whatever is the preferred choice!
always beer in the TVR section!
Any car that has done 50k upwards, I'd want the camshaft to be checked over.
I bought a car recently that was on 75k but was original camshaft, thought it was OK but it cost me a fair few quid fixing. Don't get me wrong, I love my car and it now has an engine with a new uprated camshaft, new piston rings, all new bearings throughout and re-worked head valves.
RV8's in TVR's have a history of soft camshafts so do go in with your eyes open, do your research but I'm sure you'll have fun.
Enjoy and welcome.
I bought a car recently that was on 75k but was original camshaft, thought it was OK but it cost me a fair few quid fixing. Don't get me wrong, I love my car and it now has an engine with a new uprated camshaft, new piston rings, all new bearings throughout and re-worked head valves.
RV8's in TVR's have a history of soft camshafts so do go in with your eyes open, do your research but I'm sure you'll have fun.
Enjoy and welcome.
That's probably a very nice car.
To check the chassis, just put it in for an MOT. Its due in a few weeks anyway. I would say that you shouldn't buy it without it having an MOT prior to purchase.
Mine was fine this time last year.....and failed its MOT on outriggers this year - £1500 to replace.
As for the engine, take as good an expert as you can find to go with you to inspect. Engine, gearbox, chassis, they are your key areas - the rest is in relative terms minor, and also spottable.
And see how it feels to drive.....a few hundred pounds of suspension works could be lurking, but should be shown up on the MOT.
To check the chassis, just put it in for an MOT. Its due in a few weeks anyway. I would say that you shouldn't buy it without it having an MOT prior to purchase.
Mine was fine this time last year.....and failed its MOT on outriggers this year - £1500 to replace.
As for the engine, take as good an expert as you can find to go with you to inspect. Engine, gearbox, chassis, they are your key areas - the rest is in relative terms minor, and also spottable.
And see how it feels to drive.....a few hundred pounds of suspension works could be lurking, but should be shown up on the MOT.
A900ss said:
Any car that has done 50k upwards, I'd want the camshaft to be checked over.
I bought a car recently that was on 75k but was original camshaft, thought it was OK but it cost me a fair few quid fixing. Don't get me wrong, I love my car and it now has an engine with a new uprated camshaft, new piston rings, all new bearings throughout and re-worked head valves.
RV8's in TVR's have a history of soft camshafts so do go in with your eyes open, do your research but I'm sure you'll have fun.
Enjoy and welcome.
+1 on this. I had the same experience - did not break the bank to put right but best to budget for the work up front, rather than it take you by surprise. I bought a car recently that was on 75k but was original camshaft, thought it was OK but it cost me a fair few quid fixing. Don't get me wrong, I love my car and it now has an engine with a new uprated camshaft, new piston rings, all new bearings throughout and re-worked head valves.
RV8's in TVR's have a history of soft camshafts so do go in with your eyes open, do your research but I'm sure you'll have fun.
Enjoy and welcome.
Get along to one of your regional TVRCC meets - you should find everyone more than willing to show you their cars and provide some advice.
A900ss said:
Any car that has done 50k upwards, I'd want the camshaft to be checked over.
I bought a car recently that was on 75k but was original camshaft, thought it was OK but it cost me a fair few quid fixing. Don't get me wrong, I love my car and it now has an engine with a new uprated camshaft, new piston rings, all new bearings throughout and re-worked head valves.
RV8's in TVR's have a history of soft camshafts so do go in with your eyes open, do your research but I'm sure you'll have fun.
Enjoy and welcome.
I've got a 97 400 with 56k and currently got the heads, water pump, pulleys etc off. The cam lobs look ok with no pitting and the profiles look consistent with no obvious wear to the eye. As i've got alot of the engine stripped already, do you think its worth replacing the cam as it might not have much life left? If so, which cam do you recommend and what other ancilleries do I need to replace - bearings, pulley, chain etc? Thanks, MarkI bought a car recently that was on 75k but was original camshaft, thought it was OK but it cost me a fair few quid fixing. Don't get me wrong, I love my car and it now has an engine with a new uprated camshaft, new piston rings, all new bearings throughout and re-worked head valves.
RV8's in TVR's have a history of soft camshafts so do go in with your eyes open, do your research but I'm sure you'll have fun.
Enjoy and welcome.
Smudger33uk said:
I've got a 97 400 with 56k and currently got the heads, water pump, pulleys etc off. The cam lobs look ok with no pitting and the profiles look consistent with no obvious wear to the eye. As i've got alot of the engine stripped already, do you think its worth replacing the cam as it might not have much life left? If so, which cam do you recommend and what other ancilleries do I need to replace - bearings, pulley, chain etc? Thanks, Mark
What characteristics are you after? High performance on a race track? Fast road driving? Shopping car? General touring? Daily driver? Alters the choice of camI still say you should ask the vendor to MOT the car at an MOT station of your choice. Its only a few weeks short of its next MOT, and there could be a host of problems, including outriggers, that would cause it to fail an MOT. Easy check to do, costs £30-£53.
Then, if it passes with no advisories, get a local expert along to listen to the engine and inspect it. I would be about £3000 richer if i hadn't trusted the dealer from whom I purchased my car, and had done an inspection.
Then, if it passes with no advisories, get a local expert along to listen to the engine and inspect it. I would be about £3000 richer if i hadn't trusted the dealer from whom I purchased my car, and had done an inspection.
Unless you're planning on keeping it forever, must be <4 owners, <40k, nothing other than perfect history.
They are hard to sell on otherwise, the TVR dealers don't want them or if they do they offer eye wateringly low prices for them.
It is very easy to pay too much, and comes as a shock when you try to sell. Many of the cars I was looking at in Feb are still for sale because they are up for what the owner wants for them, rather than what reason (and market forces) dictate they are actually worth.
They are hard to sell on otherwise, the TVR dealers don't want them or if they do they offer eye wateringly low prices for them.
It is very easy to pay too much, and comes as a shock when you try to sell. Many of the cars I was looking at in Feb are still for sale because they are up for what the owner wants for them, rather than what reason (and market forces) dictate they are actually worth.
pb450 said:
Rob Ingleby for inspection. Worth every penny and the written report can be used as a bargaining tool for negotiations.
It's easy to write a report saying you've inspected an already good car and pass it off as inspected. Where an inspector earns their money is in warning you off the dogs and spotting the faults. Some inspectors are incapable of that! Remember theres no name and shame on these forums....Just going in with an open mind is probably best dude. If you expect German build quality you will be disappointed, if you know TVRs then you'll be able to tell if it's a good one.
For the 6 hour drive home from collecting mine the tension was high but the car didn't put a foot wrong all the way. Just get used to pressing the immobiliser disarm button several times before startup!
For the 6 hour drive home from collecting mine the tension was high but the car didn't put a foot wrong all the way. Just get used to pressing the immobiliser disarm button several times before startup!
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