Broken drive shaft club - another member
Broken drive shaft club - another member
Author
Discussion

Pupp

Original Poster:

12,974 posts

302 months

Thursday 27th June 2013
quotequote all
Remember some discussion, but cannot now turn up, as to whether the shafts on our cars were from some other donor... anyone know definitively?

Not stripped out yet but looks like typical shear failure through the inner circlip land on the outer joint area.

So, alternatives from Raceproved, Dave Mac, any others...?

Can anything be done to toughen up the standard ones (tuftriding or nitriding etc)?

db484bhpv8

8,676 posts

250 months

Thursday 27th June 2013
quotequote all
Cryogenics could be an option.
I know a guy runs a high powered MGB drag car on slicks that is getting close to 9's. He had the standard MG halfshafts treated and they still hold.

I wouldnt recommend the racefailed's as both me and Brummmie have snapped them.
Dave Mac makes shafts that will not break and are guarenteed.

neal1980

2,584 posts

269 months

Thursday 27th June 2013
quotequote all
Or get some berrisford unbreakable ones made up for about 150each +VAT for the same items without the TVR sudden price hike. PM me if you want details...

Neal

Pupp

Original Poster:

12,974 posts

302 months

Friday 28th June 2013
quotequote all
Thanks Neal - have sorted a stock one to get me going again but will likely pursue your option longer term as I suspect this won't be the last smile

Pupp

Original Poster:

12,974 posts

302 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
Right, turns out the shaft hadn't sheared at all, but the inner joint had spat its balls out- this was a new joint only a few weeks ago so I pit it down to an assembly glitch, like maybe I'd allowed it to over articulate when installing.

But... I'm typing this whilst waiting for the AA as the bigger has just done it again, same side same joint. I rebuilt the joint, repacked, New boot... Faulty joint or something else amiss? Grrr!

phazed

22,508 posts

234 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
Hmm, I bought genuine CV joints, can't remember from who but they've been in about 5 years now and had a fair amount of abuse.

You may have had a dodgy pair?

fatboychim

979 posts

281 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
This guy supplies genuine GKN Lobro joints

http://www.prolinx.biz/Driveshaft_prices.htm

Got mine from him a few weeks ago. A bit dearer than shaftec etc. but hopefully a quality item.

Edited for auto correct fail

Edited by fatboychim on Sunday 30th June 18:56

phazed

22,508 posts

234 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
fatboychim said:
This guy supplies genuine GKN Lobro joints

http://www.prolinx.biz/Driveshaft_prices.htm

Got mine from him a few weeks ago. A bit dearer than shaftec etc. but hopefully a quality item.

Edited for auto correct fail

Edited by fatboychim on Sunday 30th June 18:56
Ah ha, these are the ones that I bought!

carsy

3,019 posts

195 months

Sunday 30th June 2013
quotequote all
And me.

Else

795 posts

268 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
Snapping a driveshaft is always in the back of my mind. What happens when it goes, does the shaft flail around damaging the surrounding wishbones/chassis or stay put?

db484bhpv8

8,676 posts

250 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
Else said:
Snapping a driveshaft is always in the back of my mind. What happens when it goes, does the shaft flail around damaging the surrounding wishbones/chassis or stay put?
Mine went on launch at the dragstrip. A nice thud then the engine revs free.
The shaft does flail about but as i was travelling slowly to stop the damage was just to paint on the wishbones.

Pupp

Original Poster:

12,974 posts

302 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
Okay, this is all very perplexing... have just spoken to the guys at Dav Mac who supplied the joint - was hoping (frankly) to be told I had assembled the joint wrongly (it's possible to get the inner/outer races 'out of phase'), but seems I had it correct. The joints are supposed to self-centre under load and it seems the only scope for ejecting balls in the absence of breakage is if the joint over extends or plunges, which it should not be able to do in-situ. I was asked whether the shaft was too short (the length is oem), so I'm now wondering whether something has let go on the diff mounting such that the diff has pulled over. Suspect I would have noticed this 'though... frown

ETA obviously, will also check that nothing amiss on the suspension but, again, would expect that to be pretty obvious.

pbaker43

268 posts

198 months

Monday 1st July 2013
quotequote all
I have used prolinx for CV’s in off road racing and they never failed unless I decided to launch the thing and hit the ground with the right foot way down, even then the shaft or diff would explode first… Seems you have a doggy one, bin it and contact prolinx I used them when I repleced my CV’s on the TVR, the CV comes with the little pack of grease, service and help was excellent.

Pupp

Original Poster:

12,974 posts

302 months

Tuesday 2nd July 2013
quotequote all
Not had chance for further investigation yet but the more I think about this, the more I'm expecting to find some problem with driveline geometry when I do dive in... anyone able to describe where the diff hangers typically fail and whether failure is usually obvious on inspection given the obscured location?

Pupp

Original Poster:

12,974 posts

302 months

Thursday 4th July 2013
quotequote all
Anyone got a driveshaft off a BTR car they can measure the overall length of please, and the distance between the two butting faces for the joint inners? Guess who seems to have different length shafts either side of the car rolleyes