Broken drive shaft club - another member
Discussion
Remember some discussion, but cannot now turn up, as to whether the shafts on our cars were from some other donor... anyone know definitively?
Not stripped out yet but looks like typical shear failure through the inner circlip land on the outer joint area.
So, alternatives from Raceproved, Dave Mac, any others...?
Can anything be done to toughen up the standard ones (tuftriding or nitriding etc)?
Not stripped out yet but looks like typical shear failure through the inner circlip land on the outer joint area.
So, alternatives from Raceproved, Dave Mac, any others...?
Can anything be done to toughen up the standard ones (tuftriding or nitriding etc)?
Cryogenics could be an option.
I know a guy runs a high powered MGB drag car on slicks that is getting close to 9's. He had the standard MG halfshafts treated and they still hold.
I wouldnt recommend the racefailed's as both me and Brummmie have snapped them.
Dave Mac makes shafts that will not break and are guarenteed.
I know a guy runs a high powered MGB drag car on slicks that is getting close to 9's. He had the standard MG halfshafts treated and they still hold.
I wouldnt recommend the racefailed's as both me and Brummmie have snapped them.
Dave Mac makes shafts that will not break and are guarenteed.
Right, turns out the shaft hadn't sheared at all, but the inner joint had spat its balls out- this was a new joint only a few weeks ago so I pit it down to an assembly glitch, like maybe I'd allowed it to over articulate when installing.
But... I'm typing this whilst waiting for the AA as the bigger has just done it again, same side same joint. I rebuilt the joint, repacked, New boot... Faulty joint or something else amiss? Grrr!
But... I'm typing this whilst waiting for the AA as the bigger has just done it again, same side same joint. I rebuilt the joint, repacked, New boot... Faulty joint or something else amiss? Grrr!
This guy supplies genuine GKN Lobro joints
http://www.prolinx.biz/Driveshaft_prices.htm
Got mine from him a few weeks ago. A bit dearer than shaftec etc. but hopefully a quality item.
Edited for auto correct fail
http://www.prolinx.biz/Driveshaft_prices.htm
Got mine from him a few weeks ago. A bit dearer than shaftec etc. but hopefully a quality item.
Edited for auto correct fail
Edited by fatboychim on Sunday 30th June 18:56
fatboychim said:
This guy supplies genuine GKN Lobro joints
http://www.prolinx.biz/Driveshaft_prices.htm
Got mine from him a few weeks ago. A bit dearer than shaftec etc. but hopefully a quality item.
Edited for auto correct fail
Ah ha, these are the ones that I bought!http://www.prolinx.biz/Driveshaft_prices.htm
Got mine from him a few weeks ago. A bit dearer than shaftec etc. but hopefully a quality item.
Edited for auto correct fail
Edited by fatboychim on Sunday 30th June 18:56
Else said:
Snapping a driveshaft is always in the back of my mind. What happens when it goes, does the shaft flail around damaging the surrounding wishbones/chassis or stay put?
Mine went on launch at the dragstrip. A nice thud then the engine revs free.The shaft does flail about but as i was travelling slowly to stop the damage was just to paint on the wishbones.
Okay, this is all very perplexing... have just spoken to the guys at Dav Mac who supplied the joint - was hoping (frankly) to be told I had assembled the joint wrongly (it's possible to get the inner/outer races 'out of phase'), but seems I had it correct. The joints are supposed to self-centre under load and it seems the only scope for ejecting balls in the absence of breakage is if the joint over extends or plunges, which it should not be able to do in-situ. I was asked whether the shaft was too short (the length is oem), so I'm now wondering whether something has let go on the diff mounting such that the diff has pulled over. Suspect I would have noticed this 'though... 
ETA obviously, will also check that nothing amiss on the suspension but, again, would expect that to be pretty obvious.

ETA obviously, will also check that nothing amiss on the suspension but, again, would expect that to be pretty obvious.
I have used prolinx for CV’s in off road racing and they never failed unless I decided to launch the thing and hit the ground with the right foot way down, even then the shaft or diff would explode first… Seems you have a doggy one, bin it and contact prolinx I used them when I repleced my CV’s on the TVR, the CV comes with the little pack of grease, service and help was excellent.
Not had chance for further investigation yet but the more I think about this, the more I'm expecting to find some problem with driveline geometry when I do dive in... anyone able to describe where the diff hangers typically fail and whether failure is usually obvious on inspection given the obscured location?
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