Help removing gearbox

[OleVix]

I have a car lift so i can stand under it, I have a tall gearbox jack.

I also have a new clutch I want in and will lighten the fly once out.

How do I proceed ? Peter??

[phazed]

Hi Ole.

Exhaust off
Disconnect gear linkage
Prop off
Slave off
Starter off
I usually take the bell housing and box off in one.
So
Remove rose jointed slidey gear change shaft above bell housing with 2 13mm spanners
Loosen bell housing bolts with very long extensions from the rear, 9/16ths AF iirc
Disconnect gearbox mounts and earth strap
Lower and slide box off.

I may have forgotten something as it's wineing Wednesday

Good luck!

[OleVix]

Great! Do I disconnect gearlinkage from inside car or under?

[db484bhpv8]

I removed the centre trim and panel around the gearstick aperture. It's very easy to disconnect and slide out the gearstick assembly.

No need to remove the starter??
As Simon says remove the box from the bellhousing makes access to the bellhousing bolts much easier.
Each to their own of course. Always more than 1 way to do the job

[phazed]

It's easier to remove the centre consul and expose the linkage. You can see exactly what you are doing.

When you dismantle the linkage, (2 bolts) be aware that there are 2 thin nylon thrust washers on each connection and a nylon bush.

If yours are at all worn, replace them and you will have a nice tight gear change. They are available from the usual sources, ( Power etc).

[phazed]

As simon and Derek said, it is probably easier to remove box from bell housing in situ.

In fact when my box came out earlier this year, that's how Simon and I did it!

[OleVix]

Thanx guys will try this evening, with some help from a friend

[OleVix]

I have a lathe, where on the fly do I take off? How much can i take off? 3-4 kg?

[phazed]

If no one knows here.

Google Chesman Engineering and ask for Andy.

They did mine and do lots for TVR indies.

[Pupp]

You regular gearbox removers, assuming no lift available, best done with the rear on ramps or the front?

[db484bhpv8]

Pupp said:

You regular gearbox removers, assuming no lift available, best done with the rear on ramps or the front?

Rear for the exhaust and prop.
Front for the rest.

I can do mine in a single garage with just the drivers side jacked up with 2 stands under.

[OleVix]

Job done!

After box was out i weighed the fly at 12.4kg, then spent two hours milling it down in the correct spots with a lathe. Now its 10.1 kg, didnt go nuts, went safe with the milling

Then I modified my wheel balancer to take flywheel, balanced it and tested it on the engine... Took it up to 5k and had no vibration... Quite loud with no exhaust :--)

Then fitted the new ap racing clutch from JE, also found out he had sold me the wrong size release bearing and spigot bush... Luckily mine was fine.

All bolted up and working fine, thanks to Phazed for telephonic help!

[Andy_mr2sc]

Does it rev any more freely with the lighter flywheel?

[OleVix]

Andy_mr2sc said:

Does it rev any more freely with the lighter flywheel?

Yes a bit, the engine just feels happier and more suited to the car... Likes to rev more!

[OleVix]

I'm now getting a churning sound when cold. Sound comes when I press the clutch and reach for a gear like 1st or rev. No sound when in gear and no sound when engine is hot...

[db484bhpv8]

OleVix said:

I'm now getting a churning sound when cold. Sound comes when I press the clutch and reach for a gear like 1st or rev. No sound when in gear and no sound when engine is hot...

Could be a slight play in the spigot bearing.

[OleVix]

db484bhpv8 said:

Could be a slight play in the spigot bearing.

Ah typical, wasn't any before clutch change, I had ordered new with release bearing but JE gave me both wrong

I'll see if it goes away, if not I'll do it later when taking the cam job

[MisterT]

Thread resurrection.

I'm taking the gearbox out and hoped to separate box from bellhousing. Everything disconnected, four bolts removed but the box simply will not separate from the bellhousing.

It's never been separated before in 24 years so I guess there is corrosion holding them together? Has anyone else experienced this difficulty? There is a tab on each side of the box casing and I've even tried driving in a large wedge between the tab and the back face of the bell housing but nothing is shifting. I don't want to belt the wedge too hard for fear of bending/cracking or distorting the gearbox or bellhousing.

I then thought no big issue I'll unbolt the bellhousing instead and drop out the whole unit. When I pulled the gearbox back far enough to disengage the input shaft there isn't enough width between the chassis rails to lower the bellhousing.

I've got the trolley jack under the gearbox for support and the engine supported under the sump.

For those who have done this before is there a knack to lowering the box and bellhousing as a unit the clear the chassis rails? Do I have to rotate the unit or something?

Any hints or tips gratefully received

[phazed]

Yes, you have to rotate the gearbox. A bit fiddly but very doable. If you are doing it off axle stands it is a pain but achievable.

[rev-erend]

OleVix said:

Job done!

After box was out i weighed the fly at 12.4kg, then spent two hours milling it down in the correct spots with a lathe. Now its 10.1 kg, didnt go nuts, went safe with the milling

Then I modified my wheel balancer to take flywheel, balanced it and tested it on the engine... Took it up to 5k and had no vibration... Quite loud with no exhaust :--)

Then fitted the new ap racing clutch from JE, also found out he had sold me the wrong size release bearing and spigot bush... Luckily mine was fine.

All bolted up and working fine, thanks to Phazed for telephonic help!

Out of interest - do you know what is the max power the AP racing clutch will take ?

What type of clutch is it ? Single, double, paddle ?