Tick, tick, tick or is it tap, tap, tap?
Discussion
Hi folks,
another wonderful day down this part of the world so I spent a few hours out with the Chim. I have a noise coming from the engine bay, it is related to revs and has been getting steadily worse over the last few trips out. The last lot of work I had done including changing the manifolds. This leads me to believe, I hope, that all it is is some of the bolts coming loose.
Question is, how in the juddering fudge is a person with normal size limbs and all joints working in the correct way supposed to access them?
I've been looking at this lot, is it worth the cost to have them all replaced and are there alternatives that might stop me having to pay the dreaded TVR Tax
Cheers
another wonderful day down this part of the world so I spent a few hours out with the Chim. I have a noise coming from the engine bay, it is related to revs and has been getting steadily worse over the last few trips out. The last lot of work I had done including changing the manifolds. This leads me to believe, I hope, that all it is is some of the bolts coming loose.
Question is, how in the juddering fudge is a person with normal size limbs and all joints working in the correct way supposed to access them?
I've been looking at this lot, is it worth the cost to have them all replaced and are there alternatives that might stop me having to pay the dreaded TVR Tax
Cheers
The manifold bolts are an awful job, even if you have the hands of a 5 year old!
All the top ones can be tightened from above and the two lower front ones, for the rest of them, it's an exhaust off jobbie for the passenger side and the removal of the starter motor on the drivers side, it can be done with the starter in situ but a hell of a lot easier with it removed.
If your only tightening the bolts up and not removing them, then it shouldn't take too long.
All the top ones can be tightened from above and the two lower front ones, for the rest of them, it's an exhaust off jobbie for the passenger side and the removal of the starter motor on the drivers side, it can be done with the starter in situ but a hell of a lot easier with it removed.
If your only tightening the bolts up and not removing them, then it shouldn't take too long.
Smudger33uk said:
Hi Nick,
a similar thread suggested using these click to stop them undoing. If you're stuck pop around and i'll give you a hand to tighten up the existing bolts.
Cheers Mark, may well take you up on that offer, I will bring the Inlet Manifold and trumpet base for you to take a look at.a similar thread suggested using these click to stop them undoing. If you're stuck pop around and i'll give you a hand to tighten up the existing bolts.
What are those lock tabs then? Will they stop stainless bolts from coming undone?
NickM450 said:
Cheers Mark, may well take you up on that offer, I will bring the Inlet Manifold and trumpet base for you to take a look at.
What are those lock tabs then? Will they stop stainless bolts from coming undone?
No problem, just give me a shout.What are those lock tabs then? Will they stop stainless bolts from coming undone?
I believe once the bolts are tight you bend the tabs up to lock them from undoing. Should work for any bolts whether stainless or not. I've not used but probably will give them a go.
Just my opinion but I wouldn't use stainless bolts as they are softer than a good high tensile bolt generally speaking. As such they can tend to lose their grip somewhat, or they can stretch a bit and hence work their way out. I know they are only bolting into ally threads but even so.
Andav469 said:
The manifold bolts are an awful job, even if you have the hands of a 5 year old!
All the top ones can be tightened from above and the two lower front ones, for the rest of them, it's an exhaust off jobbie for the passenger side and the removal of the starter motor on the drivers side, it can be done with the starter in situ but a hell of a lot easier with it removed.
If your only tightening the bolts up and not removing them, then it shouldn't take too long.
Bottom bolts can be done, just, without dropping exhaust. The two bottom bolts at the back are the tricky ones. Need a 9/16 or a 14mm S spanner (Machine Mart) and a 1/4in drive ratget 9/16 socket for the rear one + patience +. Just retightened mine after 50 miles. Used new bolts and washers same as old TVR fitted ones. All the top ones can be tightened from above and the two lower front ones, for the rest of them, it's an exhaust off jobbie for the passenger side and the removal of the starter motor on the drivers side, it can be done with the starter in situ but a hell of a lot easier with it removed.
If your only tightening the bolts up and not removing them, then it shouldn't take too long.
Use 9/16" spanners. The difference of 0.3ish MM may not sound much but it makes getting the spanner over the bolt head by feel only and whole lot easier.
Also on a couple of bolts you will have to loosen them, move the manifold away from the block and loosen more otherwise the bolt head starts to hit the manifold making it tough to turn.
But I did mine all from the top and I only removed the Y Piece. Also make sure you disconnect the battery if you're not removing the starter motor.
Also on a couple of bolts you will have to loosen them, move the manifold away from the block and loosen more otherwise the bolt head starts to hit the manifold making it tough to turn.
But I did mine all from the top and I only removed the Y Piece. Also make sure you disconnect the battery if you're not removing the starter motor.
That ruins next weeks plans then.EGB said:
Exhaust gadget already with tick tock blows. Tightening nuts will not solve. Check gadget around the plug area with short length of garden hose to ear hole. Listen for hiss/tick to locate the blowing bit.
I'm guessing you mean gasket? 
No matter anyway, she's got to go back to the garage to locate and fix my fuel leak
Right then, had a call from my Colin at TVRS today. He had my car back to investigate the leak and tap/tick noise.
Good news thankfully, noise was the adjustable pushrods I have needing re adjusting, all done as well as the pre loads. Leak was the fuel pressure regulator, that would explain why it didn't leak all of the time.
Collecting her later, going to take advantage of the great weather this afternoon
Good news thankfully, noise was the adjustable pushrods I have needing re adjusting, all done as well as the pre loads. Leak was the fuel pressure regulator, that would explain why it didn't leak all of the time.
Collecting her later, going to take advantage of the great weather this afternoon
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