Some Chimaera buying advice please.
Some Chimaera buying advice please.
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Discussion

TGJR

Original Poster:

750 posts

258 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
Having owned TVR's on 3 previous occasions (Griff, Tamora & Sag) the bug has bitten again and I am on the hunt for a Chimaera with a budget of up to £10K. I am aware of chassis issues and the need for cars to have either been very well cared for from new or to have had repair work but there are a couple of other questions.

1. At what mileage would you expect a clutch to go on average (realising that there are extremes such as people who live in the middle of London and drive in gridlock all day!)
2. Is it true that the later facelift cars are better built than earlier cars and as such a higher mileage post 98 car is a better bet than a lower mileage earlier car?
3. Are suspension components an issue on sub 60K mile cars?
4. Is there a difference in how robust the engines are between 400, 450 and 500?

Any feedback is gratefully received.

OleVix

1,438 posts

178 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
TGJR said:
Having owned TVR's on 3 previous occasions (Griff, Tamora & Sag) the bug has bitten again and I am on the hunt for a Chimaera with a budget of up to £10K. I am aware of chassis issues and the need for cars to have either been very well cared for from new or to have had repair work but there are a couple of other questions.

1. At what mileage would you expect a clutch to go on average (realising that there are extremes such as people who live in the middle of London and drive in gridlock all day!)
2. Is it true that the later facelift cars are better built than earlier cars and as such a higher mileage post 98 car is a better bet than a lower mileage earlier car?
3. Are suspension components an issue on sub 60K mile cars?
4. Is there a difference in how robust the engines are between 400, 450 and 500?

Any feedback is gratefully received.
A clutch will probably last 50k
The later the car the better really, body and dash design is nicer, though the chassis protection was better on the earlier cars. High milage is not a problem if parts have been changed and its cared for... very low milage ones havent been used and might develop problems!
Original suspension is fairly rubbish and should be upgraded
All engines are fairly robust, but 450 the best since its got crossbolted bottom end... some 500s have had snapped crank since its not forged and has a very long stroke...


RocketScience

6,128 posts

207 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
The OP has had a Griff, so I presume he knows what a 500 engine is like! I have never met anyone that has suffered a broken crank on a 500 engine!

TBH OP, anything less than the bid daddy 500 Chim will feel a bit sluggish compared to your previous TVRs, unless its been supercharged/Turbo/LS conversion!

StarmistBlue400

3,088 posts

248 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
RocketScience said:
The OP has had a Griff, so I presume he knows what a 500 engine is like! I have never met anyone that has suffered a broken crank on a 500 engine!

TBH OP, anything less than the bid daddy 500 Chim will feel a bit sluggish compared to your previous TVRs, unless its been supercharged/Turbo/LS conversion!
Echo this, I love my 400 but I now wish I had gone for a 450 or 500.

Mine had a clutch at 39K, probably had some more miles left but I changed it for peace of mind.

TGJR

Original Poster:

750 posts

258 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
StarmistBlue400 said:
Echo this, I love my 400 but I now wish I had gone for a 450 or 500.

Mine had a clutch at 39K, probably had some more miles left but I changed it for peace of mind.
What is the cost of a new clutch if you don't mind me asking?


phazed

22,508 posts

234 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
£450 fitted.

Andav469

966 posts

167 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
OleVix said:
A clutch will probably last 50k
The later the car the better really, body and dash design is nicer, though the chassis protection was better on the earlier cars. High milage is not a problem if parts have been changed and its cared for... very low milage ones havent been used and might develop problems!
Original suspension is fairly rubbish and should be upgraded
All engines are fairly robust, but 450 the best since its got crossbolted bottom end... some 500s have had snapped crank since its not forged and has a very long stroke...
The later 500's also have a cross bolted bottom end

StarmistBlue400

3,088 posts

248 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
TGJR said:
What is the cost of a new clutch if you don't mind me asking?
I paid just over £200 for a new clutch, an exchanged flywheel which was balanced and lightened and the release bearing. I think from memory it was around the same again to have it fitted.

Trevor450

1,936 posts

178 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
Nothing wrong with the original suspension IMO. Most of these cars are getting on a bit and age of the suspension is a problem in a lot of cases. It depends what you want to use the car for.

TGJR

Original Poster:

750 posts

258 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies so far - all helpful stuff.

It sounds like a car with 40K on the clock and original suspension/clutch/chassis etc. could end up costing another £1k+ in the near future. This would need to be factored in to the budget when comparing to say a 50K mile car that had had the above addressed already.

StarmistBlue400

3,088 posts

248 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
I think you are being realistic. Mine cost me £9K and I've spent about a grand on a service, clutch and sleeving the exhaust. However, part if the deal was new riggers so I'm covered there

Look at as many as you can, it's a buyers market.

QBee

22,493 posts

174 months

Wednesday 17th July 2013
quotequote all
My clutch was changed at 73k, during an engine change, as it was just about worn out.

JimChim500

272 posts

247 months

Thursday 18th July 2013
quotequote all
TGJR said:
Having owned TVR's on 3 previous occasions (Griff, Tamora & Sag) the bug has bitten again and I am on the hunt for a Chimaera with a budget of up to £10K. I am aware of chassis issues and the need for cars to have either been very well cared for from new or to have had repair work but there are a couple of other questions.

1. At what mileage would you expect a clutch to go on average (realising that there are extremes such as people who live in the middle of London and drive in gridlock all day!)
2. Is it true that the later facelift cars are better built than earlier cars and as such a higher mileage post 98 car is a better bet than a lower mileage earlier car?
3. Are suspension components an issue on sub 60K mile cars?
4. Is there a difference in how robust the engines are between 400, 450 and 500?

Any feedback is gratefully received.
I owned a 1998 400 for around three years and now a 2000 500 for the last month. Both cars with around 34K miles but the 500 had a rebuild around a year ago.

400 - smoother, revs more easily, but do need to change gear more often.
500 - it's all about torque! The car just picks up and flies in any gear - in 4th on a country road its devastatingly quick! Fantastic car. Doesn't rev so easily as the 400, not quite as smooth.

As for the 450, it may be the perfect compromise - I drove a few when first looking for a Chim three years ago - didn't find a massive difference between 400 and 450s at the time, but was new to TVR so they all seemed very fast!

The sheer grunt of the 500 and its relative rarity compared with the 400 makes this my preferred choice but, hey, all Chimaeras are great.



QBee

22,493 posts

174 months

Thursday 18th July 2013
quotequote all
Just done a Cadwell Park track day in my 5 litre. Everyone else was using second gear at the tight left hander (Mansfield), the left/right at the bottom of the Mountain, and at the hairpin.

I only used second at the hairpin - the 5 litre has so much grunt that third would do for the other corners.

Dr Mike Oxgreen

4,466 posts

195 months

Friday 19th July 2013
quotequote all
There is simply no answer to the question of how long a clutch will last. It depends on what type of driving it gets, and how sensitively it has been driven.

I know people who can chew through a clutch on a "normal" car in less than 50k miles, even though they do no more town driving than I do. Then I ride with them and wince at their terrible technique with the clutch and throttle, and it becomes clear why! My other car is now approaching 130k and I know it's never had a new clutch; my Chimaera is on about 70k and I don't think it has ever had a clutch change either.

TGJR

Original Poster:

750 posts

258 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
Glad to report that I have bought a Chimaera 4.0 which I picked up on Sunday. Delighted to have a TVR back in the stable after a 5 year gap since my last one. smile

Dr Mike Oxgreen

4,466 posts

195 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
Pic!!!

Chris71

21,549 posts

272 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
RocketScience said:
I have never met anyone that has suffered a broken crank on a 500 engine!
wavey

And I've been told by professional engine builders that it's not that uncommon. Basically, TVR did a really crude job of lengthening the stroke for the extra displacement. Personally I'm not a huge fan of the power delivery on the standard 5-litre either - all that low down torque reminds me a bit of the tractor I learnt to drive on!

phazed

22,508 posts

234 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
Chimjunkies crank snapped as he started the engine.

The 5.0 block and pistons are still in the classifieds as he broke the car!

TGJR

Original Poster:

750 posts

258 months

Tuesday 23rd July 2013
quotequote all
Chris71 said:
wavey

And I've been told by professional engine builders that it's not that uncommon. Basically, TVR did a really crude job of lengthening the stroke for the extra displacement. Personally I'm not a huge fan of the power delivery on the standard 5-litre either - all that low down torque reminds me a bit of the tractor I learnt to drive on!
Interesting.... I agree as I find my 4.0 a more free and easy power delivery than the 5.0 that I test drove which felt quite aggressive with its torque. For a road car I am more than happy with the power available from my 4.0 and having owned a Griff 5.0 and a Sagaris in the past I think that you can sometimes have too much power for general road use. On track is a different matter but I have a race car for that!