Drive shaft replacement
Discussion
Hi all,
I have replaced all the CV boots and am in the process of bolting the shafts back in (what a dirty horrible job that is!). I noted when the hex bolts came out of the hubs / diff that they were clean and had no signs of any lock-tight compound. Should I reinstall the bolts dry or use a dab of lock-tight?
It always makes me nervous using dry bolts in a vibration prone area.
The hex bolts should be torqued up at 45lb/ft?
I have replaced all the CV boots and am in the process of bolting the shafts back in (what a dirty horrible job that is!). I noted when the hex bolts came out of the hubs / diff that they were clean and had no signs of any lock-tight compound. Should I reinstall the bolts dry or use a dab of lock-tight?
It always makes me nervous using dry bolts in a vibration prone area.
The hex bolts should be torqued up at 45lb/ft?
quattrophenia said:
Hi all,
I have replaced all the CV boots and am in the process of bolting the shafts back in (what a dirty horrible job that is!). I noted when the hex bolts came out of the hubs / diff that they were clean and had no signs of any lock-tight compound. Should I reinstall the bolts dry or use a dab of lock-tight?
It always makes me nervous using dry bolts in a vibration prone area.
The hex bolts should be torqued up at 45lb/ft?
I would recommend using loctite on the hex bolts.I have replaced all the CV boots and am in the process of bolting the shafts back in (what a dirty horrible job that is!). I noted when the hex bolts came out of the hubs / diff that they were clean and had no signs of any lock-tight compound. Should I reinstall the bolts dry or use a dab of lock-tight?
It always makes me nervous using dry bolts in a vibration prone area.
The hex bolts should be torqued up at 45lb/ft?
After i rebuilt all mine within a few weeks there was the usual clonking noise from the back of the car when setting off, and suddenly lifting off the gas when accelerating hard.
First thoughts were failure of the new diff bushes, or the diff mounts had come loose. But upon inspection the hex bolts had worked loose, and the clonking was between drive shaft and diff, and drive shaft and rear wheel hub.
Take no chances, the drive train on these cars live a hard life. Loctite all the way for me on everything associated with the drivetrain.
carsy said:
No locktite on mine and they are fine. 45ft lb should be more than enough.
We never had problems with Granada'a Sierra's etc (donor car) only if they had recent work and the bolts had not been tightened correctly 
BMW VW etc use the bolt on shafts and they don't give bother either all IMO clean threads & clean mating faces jobs a good-un 
quattrophenia said:
Hi all,
I have replaced all the CV boots and am in the process of bolting the shafts back in (what a dirty horrible job that is!). I noted when the hex bolts came out of the hubs / diff that they were clean and had no signs of any lock-tight compound. Should I reinstall the bolts dry or use a dab of lock-tight?
It always makes me nervous using dry bolts in a vibration prone area.
The hex bolts should be torqued up at 45lb/ft?
45lb/ft is fine. I have replaced all the CV boots and am in the process of bolting the shafts back in (what a dirty horrible job that is!). I noted when the hex bolts came out of the hubs / diff that they were clean and had no signs of any lock-tight compound. Should I reinstall the bolts dry or use a dab of lock-tight?
It always makes me nervous using dry bolts in a vibration prone area.
The hex bolts should be torqued up at 45lb/ft?
http://www.parkersteve.dsl.pipex.com/images/torque...
DEFINITELY use lock/spring washers. I used both lock washers and threadlock on mine. Driveshafts and brake calipers are the last things you want working themselves loose!
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