brrmmm....( pause).. brmmm..odd
Discussion
Had the chimaera a year now and still in love. M.O.T yesterday no advisories ect.
The only thing that had me wondering is an odd sort of pause n power, acceleration at 3000rpm. No hints in the bible. Had gold service at RT racing in Feb new plugs. I changed leads beginning of year. I have had the plenums off to paint, but it did do it before. Does it in all gears but most noticeable in 4th, 5th . Ecu mate doesn't throw up any codes.
any ideas?
The only thing that had me wondering is an odd sort of pause n power, acceleration at 3000rpm. No hints in the bible. Had gold service at RT racing in Feb new plugs. I changed leads beginning of year. I have had the plenums off to paint, but it did do it before. Does it in all gears but most noticeable in 4th, 5th . Ecu mate doesn't throw up any codes.
any ideas?
Notice you have a modified 4.5 Modifications may give a clue and how it was done and by who and what.
Check vacuum tube from dizzy to plenum is clear and has an intact connection. If you can suck air then the diaphragm on the dizzy is broke. Rotor arm should move slightly when given a good suck showing diaphragm is ok. Good luck. My 500 did not show any symtoms with tube on or off!
Check vacuum tube from dizzy to plenum is clear and has an intact connection. If you can suck air then the diaphragm on the dizzy is broke. Rotor arm should move slightly when given a good suck showing diaphragm is ok. Good luck. My 500 did not show any symtoms with tube on or off!
Robert Lees said:
so if i take the pipe off the plenum, remove dizzy cap and suck the rotor arm should move.
I think you mean suck the vacuum advance tube not the rotor arm 
If you suck the vacuum advance pipe you should hear it make a popping sound. (At least that's what happens on minis).
The rotor arm won't move no matter how hard you suck. Although a video of you trying to get it to move would be funny!
Robert Lees said:
so if i take the pipe off the plenum, remove dizzy cap and suck the rotor arm should move.
I think you mean suck the vacuum advance tube not the rotor arm If you suck the vacuum advance pipe you should hear it make a popping sound. (At least that's what happens on minis).
The rotor arm won't move no matter how hard you suck. Although a video of you trying to get it to move would be funny!
If you suck on the pipe the rotor arm will not move but the baseplate inside the dizzy should move. However there is normally a cover over this making life more difficult.
Far better to use a timing strobe light. You can then confirm that the ignition advances with revs proving the advance bob weights are doing their job. Secondly you should see the timing move when you plug/unplug the vacuum pipe from the plenum.
Steve
Far better to use a timing strobe light. You can then confirm that the ignition advances with revs proving the advance bob weights are doing their job. Secondly you should see the timing move when you plug/unplug the vacuum pipe from the plenum.
Steve
Steve_D said:
If you suck on the pipe the rotor arm will not move but the baseplate inside the dizzy should move. However there is normally a cover over this making life more difficult.
Far better to use a timing strobe light. You can then confirm that the ignition advances with revs proving the advance bob weights are doing their job. Secondly you should see the timing move when you plug/unplug the vacuum pipe from the plenum.
Steve
Thanks Steve for the correction. I remember the base plate moving on the old style dizzy Rover 3.5 V8S when suck worked on an intact diaphragm. The Heath Bible questions the need for this vacuum advance. The road and rally Cooper Ss of the 1960 did not have them. I did not notice any detectable difference in acceleration when I renewd mine with one from Clev Trev. The diaphragm can also go floppy loose on it's two screws. This may have an effect. Useful tip on using strobe light and function on removing vacuum tube. Far better to use a timing strobe light. You can then confirm that the ignition advances with revs proving the advance bob weights are doing their job. Secondly you should see the timing move when you plug/unplug the vacuum pipe from the plenum.
Steve
I think Robert's problem could be something else. Have a quick word with Mark Adams or the good guys in Yorks.
Edited by EGB on Saturday 10th August 23:50
EGB said:
Thanks Steve for the correction. I remember the base plate moving on the old style dizzy Rover 3.5 V8S when suck worked on an intact diaphragm. The Heath Bible questions the need for this vacuum advance. The road and rally Cooper Ss of the 1960 did not have them. I did not notice any detectable difference in acceleration when I renewd mine with one from Clev Trev. The diaphragm can also go floppy loose on it's two screws. This may have an effect. Useful tip on using strobe light and function on removing vacuum tube.
I think Robert's problem could be something else. Have a quick word with Mark Adams or the good guys in Yorks.
That's because race cars need the power over 3000 rpm so that`s where they set the timing ,the result is poor mpg ,low speed shunting and the loss or hesitation when you put the foot down.I think Robert's problem could be something else. Have a quick word with Mark Adams or the good guys in Yorks.
Edited by EGB on Saturday 10th August 23:50
The vac pipe is removed when the timing is set at 3000 rpm ,will give more advance so more power . re connect it and it will pink.
Mine was set up this way ,hated it so I took it back and got the timing changed back to standard.
Edited by SILICONEKID343HP on Sunday 11th August 11:32
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