Battery earth cable replacement

[aidanbree]

Mine is on its last legs as it has been pulled / stretched etc too much over the past weeks!

I want to order up a replacement. Is anyone able to tell me the length required and diameter of the mounting hole? I would go check myself but:
- The battery is flat
- I closed the door, and discovered that the doors are 'locked'
- Even if I do get into the car, I cannot get my tools out of the locked boot to release the cable.....GREAT stuff!

Rather than wait til tomorrow I want to strike whilst the iron is hot!

Cheers

Aidan

[jojackson4]

Have a search Chris 1972 did a lot on this one now called muffmiser ore something like that

[phazed]

Chuffmeister

[aidanbree]

I was thinking something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UP-TO-305-MM-12-170A-CAR...

[Chuffmeister]

jojackson4 said:

muffmiser

Brilliant... I might change it to that now...

[Chuffmeister]

Hi Aiden

From what I remember, an 8mm on the battery end, a 12mm eyelet at the earth end and some 35mm copper cable should do. As for the length of the cable, it doesn't have to be huge. It travels from the battery terminal to the earth point that resides on top of the transmission tunnel/ under the dash. Removing the old one first will help you get a better idea and also help you match the eyelet sizes correctly.

All of these cars have been altered, so I would double check the sizes first. The cable can be ordered pre-crimped off Ebay. Otherwise head over to a marine suppliers. Or, if you;re down this way, I'll crimp it for you.

Cheers Muffmiser

[spend]

M10 bolts on the chassis, you need to buy the battery negative clamp as part of the cable assembly (so your choice).

The chassis ground points are another area where installing studs & nuts can save you frustration, and pack them well with electrical grease on assembly.

[EGB]

Choose 50mm cable not 35mm. Don't like that Ebay job, too short to link with chassis or preferably the engine block.

[Chuffmeister]

The original battery earth doesn't connect directly to the block.

However, if we're talking additional cables, I added a 50mm cable from the battery to the block and a 35mm cable from the battery to the swirl pot. 50mm cable is of course better. The original TVR cable is more like 25mm. You may want to replace the live feed whilst you are at it. Again 50mm tinned copper is good for this, but its a pig of a job.

As for battery terminals, I used heavy duty screw type battery terminals, so they weren't pre-connected. The eyelet ends were crimped with heat shrink and taped. Together with a 760CCA battery, it turns over and fires instantly.