Discussion
Driving back tonight and she started to play up. Indicators kept flashing randomly and sporadically them a warning light intermittently flashe don and off. Then to top it off I pulled up for fuel to find a trail of water behind me I am assuming that a hose has split some where behind the plenum and caused me to rock up in a cloud of steam. Does anyone know for sure that there is a water pipe behind the plenum and is not something more sinister.
roseytvr said:
No it doesn't, I doubt you will get silicone through the hole in the inner wing on to the heater matrix.
I suppose it depends on TVR factory variations but I did.Tim at ACT supplied two lengths of silicone heater hose (16mm id; 22mm od) and with a bit of silicone spray lubricant I got them through the bulkhead including the grommets, it is tight though and I had a clear engine bay to work in!
I think the pipes from the heater rail in the bay, to the heater rails in the passenger footwell are 16mm. The standard silicone ASH ones off Fleabay will do. Just order two lengths and cut them to size. I ordered two metres and had some left over left over.
You can see them at the back of the engine here (original and replacements):
However, the job is a pig to do. Getting them through the grommet takes effort, but can be made easier using silicone spray. However, getting them through the grommet and then getting the leverage to force them over the heater rail pipes in the footwell is nigh on impossible. In the end, I resorted to removing the heater rail in the footwell and pushing the pipes though from the inside. So as well as ordering the two lengths of straight pipe I also had to order some 90degree bends and then cut them to size too (you'll definitely need two 90 degree bends, possibly four for the footwell heater box, depending on the condition of the original pipes). This is because the original rubber pipes connected to the heater box hade gone past their best and there was little point reconnecting them. I also recommend that you remove the footwell heater rail pipes and remove the corrosion, to ensure a good seal. Reassemble with some decent jubilee clips and tighten them with a ratchet and not a screwdriver. They need to be TIGHT! To help protect them from the heat of the engine, I cable-tied some heat reflective material around them.
Before you remove the heater rail, drain off the coolant, disconnect and remove the battery and unclip the cable ties to the rail pipes in the footwell. It is a good opportunity to flush the coolant system when you have everything reassembled. I used standard Halfrauds coolant, but added Forte conditioner after it had been flushed, which turned the coolant bright fluorescent green, making it ideal for spotting leaks in the footwell.
Also, get yourself a swearbox, as you'll have enough for a shiny new Y-piece by the time you've finished!!!
[url]
... edited to correct piss poor spelling!
You can see them at the back of the engine here (original and replacements):
However, the job is a pig to do. Getting them through the grommet takes effort, but can be made easier using silicone spray. However, getting them through the grommet and then getting the leverage to force them over the heater rail pipes in the footwell is nigh on impossible. In the end, I resorted to removing the heater rail in the footwell and pushing the pipes though from the inside. So as well as ordering the two lengths of straight pipe I also had to order some 90degree bends and then cut them to size too (you'll definitely need two 90 degree bends, possibly four for the footwell heater box, depending on the condition of the original pipes). This is because the original rubber pipes connected to the heater box hade gone past their best and there was little point reconnecting them. I also recommend that you remove the footwell heater rail pipes and remove the corrosion, to ensure a good seal. Reassemble with some decent jubilee clips and tighten them with a ratchet and not a screwdriver. They need to be TIGHT! To help protect them from the heat of the engine, I cable-tied some heat reflective material around them.
Before you remove the heater rail, drain off the coolant, disconnect and remove the battery and unclip the cable ties to the rail pipes in the footwell. It is a good opportunity to flush the coolant system when you have everything reassembled. I used standard Halfrauds coolant, but added Forte conditioner after it had been flushed, which turned the coolant bright fluorescent green, making it ideal for spotting leaks in the footwell.
Also, get yourself a swearbox, as you'll have enough for a shiny new Y-piece by the time you've finished!!!
[url]... edited to correct piss poor spelling!
Edited by Chuffmeister on Friday 11th October 11:57
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