Dead car, not firing on any cylinders
Discussion
Struggling with the car at the mo. Went to fire her up and she ran rough as a pig, then died. Now no firing, nothing.
Engine turning over OK, spark plugs wet.
One HT lead clearly stuffed, another poor, so swapped them all over for a spare set of magnecor leads I happened to have in the garage. Cleaned up tatty contacts in dizzy. I now have eight good leads and six good/2 average dizzy contacts. So to my mind, I should at least get her turning over, even if it is rubbish.
Coil is giving a spark when the main lead is held close to earth - looks pink/yellow, held at c. 1mm distance.
Is there any way to test how much energy the coil is giving out, or should I just replace it?
Does anyone have a source for these parts that is reasonable?
Cheers,
Rich
Engine turning over OK, spark plugs wet.
One HT lead clearly stuffed, another poor, so swapped them all over for a spare set of magnecor leads I happened to have in the garage. Cleaned up tatty contacts in dizzy. I now have eight good leads and six good/2 average dizzy contacts. So to my mind, I should at least get her turning over, even if it is rubbish.
Coil is giving a spark when the main lead is held close to earth - looks pink/yellow, held at c. 1mm distance.
Is there any way to test how much energy the coil is giving out, or should I just replace it?
Does anyone have a source for these parts that is reasonable?
Cheers,
Rich
I assume you’ve swapped the wet plugs out?
weak spark - could be any number of things not just coil.
Ignition amp, rotor arm, dizzy cap.
You can test a coil on the bench - a quick google should show you how. If a coil is on the way out you may notice an oil leak from it or a high temp misfire before it finally gives in.
I’m having similar problems at the moment, narrowed it down to the ignition amp or a faulty sensor over fuelling
weak spark - could be any number of things not just coil.
Ignition amp, rotor arm, dizzy cap.
You can test a coil on the bench - a quick google should show you how. If a coil is on the way out you may notice an oil leak from it or a high temp misfire before it finally gives in.
I’m having similar problems at the moment, narrowed it down to the ignition amp or a faulty sensor over fuelling
Are you getting good sparks for each cylinder?
I wonder if the engine is flooded. If it is flooded try starting it on full throttle and keep turning the engine over for as long as it takes to fire. This can take over 60 seconds!
The first time I flooded my chim I did not know this trick until the AA man (yeah, I gave in) showed me.
I wonder if the engine is flooded. If it is flooded try starting it on full throttle and keep turning the engine over for as long as it takes to fire. This can take over 60 seconds!
The first time I flooded my chim I did not know this trick until the AA man (yeah, I gave in) showed me.
Update - nowI really do need help...
New Dizzy, rotor arm, leads.
Fired up fine, for a minute. Walked away.
Came back 3 hours later, started rough as hell again, plopped dead and now turning over and over again. Does not want to fire at all, even after a couple of minutes turning.
Again, have left the fuel to evaporate and it may start again but this is the second time this has happened and now I'm all nervous about getting in her lest I find myself somewhere I don't want to be for a day or two.
Anybody got any ideas / suggestions?
Thanks,
Rich
New Dizzy, rotor arm, leads.
Fired up fine, for a minute. Walked away.
Came back 3 hours later, started rough as hell again, plopped dead and now turning over and over again. Does not want to fire at all, even after a couple of minutes turning.
Again, have left the fuel to evaporate and it may start again but this is the second time this has happened and now I'm all nervous about getting in her lest I find myself somewhere I don't want to be for a day or two.
Anybody got any ideas / suggestions?
Thanks,
Rich
Am i reading this right ? You fired her up, ran for about a minute and then switched off. Came back a few hours later and she wouldnt start ?
If this is the case you have probably flooded again as they run far too rich on initial cold start up. If its flooded they can be a bugger to get going again.
If this is the case you have probably flooded again as they run far too rich on initial cold start up. If its flooded they can be a bugger to get going again.
When I first got her going, I left her running in a cloud of smoke for about an hour. Smoke cleared after about 5 minutes.
So I then changed the dizzy & rotor, fired her up again for a couple of minutes to check all was well, and walked away feeling smug.
My main worry is that she ran so rough on start-up - felt like half the cylinders weren't firing, and then died after 10 secs.
Any bright ideas what might cause a really rough running engine on startup, that then dies?
So I then changed the dizzy & rotor, fired her up again for a couple of minutes to check all was well, and walked away feeling smug.
My main worry is that she ran so rough on start-up - felt like half the cylinders weren't firing, and then died after 10 secs.
Any bright ideas what might cause a really rough running engine on startup, that then dies?
To my mind (and having had a similar problem) if the car is constantly flooding you either have
A) no or insufficient spark
B) too much fuel being added by the efi for the engine conditions
My money would be on the former.
You say the dizzy cap , rotor and leads are new - are they good quality (see my earlier topic about pattern rotor arms?
Are you still using the same spark plugs which have now been flooded several times? If so I'd pull them and give them a good dry (wire brush and then heat up really hot with blow torch), drying with a towel or in the oven isn't good enough. If they've been badly flooded or running rich they will not be producing a good spark. Make sure they are the right plugs for the job as well (B7ecs or similar).
Once you are 100% that the spark is good then look elsewhere. As someone else said if you look at the spark from the king lead this should be really meaty and able to jump 10mm with ease.
A) no or insufficient spark
B) too much fuel being added by the efi for the engine conditions
My money would be on the former.
You say the dizzy cap , rotor and leads are new - are they good quality (see my earlier topic about pattern rotor arms?
Are you still using the same spark plugs which have now been flooded several times? If so I'd pull them and give them a good dry (wire brush and then heat up really hot with blow torch), drying with a towel or in the oven isn't good enough. If they've been badly flooded or running rich they will not be producing a good spark. Make sure they are the right plugs for the job as well (B7ecs or similar).
Once you are 100% that the spark is good then look elsewhere. As someone else said if you look at the spark from the king lead this should be really meaty and able to jump 10mm with ease.
Coil or ignition amplifier are the usual suspects in cases like these. Mine runs rough when damp, but there's no reason why yours should be damp. Of course, if the above are faulty, even a little dampness will give you big problems.
I work in your area, and am down there a couple of days next week. While it would be a real hardship to take my Chim rather than the Audi (yes, I have one of those too), I think I can find my spare set of leads and plugs and we can try swapping bits off my car onto yours if you like.
I work in your area, and am down there a couple of days next week. While it would be a real hardship to take my Chim rather than the Audi (yes, I have one of those too), I think I can find my spare set of leads and plugs and we can try swapping bits off my car onto yours if you like.
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