Remove Alarm / Imobilizer
Discussion
Chimeara late 1995 400HC in CYPRUS
1. Hi guys can someone give me instructions with pictures if possible how to remove the alarm and immobilizer? (Foxguard)
2. I have a problem starting the car. I switch the immobilizer off, the pump primes, but the engine doent crank at all. it seems that there is no power to the starter. is there anything between the starting switch and the solinoid (fuse or relay either in the immobilizer or anywhere else)because i see that the Wight Red wire from the starting switch ends in the Foxguard alarm/immobilizer???
if someone whants to send me something by email: sergides1978@hotmail.com
1. Hi guys can someone give me instructions with pictures if possible how to remove the alarm and immobilizer? (Foxguard)
2. I have a problem starting the car. I switch the immobilizer off, the pump primes, but the engine doent crank at all. it seems that there is no power to the starter. is there anything between the starting switch and the solinoid (fuse or relay either in the immobilizer or anywhere else)because i see that the Wight Red wire from the starting switch ends in the Foxguard alarm/immobilizer???
if someone whants to send me something by email: sergides1978@hotmail.com
I haven't got a clue on the foxguard alarm because mine has meta but it should be fairly easy to chase the two circuits back with a multimeter and cut the immobiliser out. Check that it is the immobiliser that's buggered though, I think that the only relay between the switch and the starter is inside the immobiliser (which is what all the hot start mod is about), checking all the cables are connected would be where I would start. Good luck 
I've been doing some searching for a manual for them but can't find anything and the meta one will be of no use to you because they are both integral to the loom and all of the wires are black. A few threads point towards http://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/ who hold the details to the alarms and have helped a couple people out over the phone, but you might as well sit there with a multimeter and chase the wire from the ignition and then to the starter, then do the same for the fuel if you want to take it right out.
Is your fob actually doing anything? Just found this..
Re-Synchronising Foxguard Alarms
Mar 96
Foxguard have found that a large proportion of returned F1-11 units are not actually faulty but simply out of synchronisation with the Radio Key. The F1-11 uses a random encryption antiscan grabcoding system. If the Radio Key is operated out of range of the car the key wilI transmit a coding signal but the receiver in the alarm will not recieve it. If this happens the coding in the Radio Key moves on but the unit will not. This will cause problems if the Radio Key is regularly pressed and released while out of range.
If the Radio Key no longer operates the alarm systern, try the spare one. If the system is operating correctly this indicates the first remote is simply out of synchronisation. It is possible to resynchronise the Radio Key:
1. Stand next to the car.
2. Press the left hand button on the Radio Key, the LED on the Radio Key will become solid.
3. Keep the button depressed for at least 3-4 seconds.
4. Release the button and immediately press the button again for 1-2 seconds.
The Radio Key is now back in synchronisation with the alarm. You may have to try a few times before the system will respond correctly, if you don't do step 4 quickly enough - the button need only be released for a split second.
There is also something about using the button on the alarm box to add a new fob..
Re-Synchronising Foxguard Alarms
Mar 96
Foxguard have found that a large proportion of returned F1-11 units are not actually faulty but simply out of synchronisation with the Radio Key. The F1-11 uses a random encryption antiscan grabcoding system. If the Radio Key is operated out of range of the car the key wilI transmit a coding signal but the receiver in the alarm will not recieve it. If this happens the coding in the Radio Key moves on but the unit will not. This will cause problems if the Radio Key is regularly pressed and released while out of range.
If the Radio Key no longer operates the alarm systern, try the spare one. If the system is operating correctly this indicates the first remote is simply out of synchronisation. It is possible to resynchronise the Radio Key:
1. Stand next to the car.
2. Press the left hand button on the Radio Key, the LED on the Radio Key will become solid.
3. Keep the button depressed for at least 3-4 seconds.
4. Release the button and immediately press the button again for 1-2 seconds.
The Radio Key is now back in synchronisation with the alarm. You may have to try a few times before the system will respond correctly, if you don't do step 4 quickly enough - the button need only be released for a split second.
There is also something about using the button on the alarm box to add a new fob..
Space you are right... Thanks... The fob is out of synch since the spare that i digged out switches the immobizizer off. but still problem with starter is there, it doesnt crank the engine. i will go today and try to check again if the starter does get power. I will try the "lights dimming" methode first and if not i will try to find where the starter is and use the multimeter. Any suggestions?
The starter motor is on the drivers side, iirc the top wire on the solenoid is to the battery, the bottom to the motor and the middle one is the one that goes to ignition.
Don't post the pin numbers or wire colours anywhere because it will make it 100x easier for thieves to bypass the immobiliser.
Not teaching you to suck eggs, but just incase: How to check continuity/chase wires
- Health and safety alert, make sure the car is in neutral
Don't post the pin numbers or wire colours anywhere because it will make it 100x easier for thieves to bypass the immobiliser.
Not teaching you to suck eggs, but just incase: How to check continuity/chase wires
Edited by s p a c e m a n on Sunday 12th January 14:47
s p a c e m a n said:
The starter motor is on the drivers side, iirc the top wire on the solenoid is to the battery, the bottom to the motor and the middle one is the one that goes to ignition.
Don't post the pin numbers or wire colours anywhere because it will make it 100x easier for thieves to bypass the immobiliser.
Not teaching you to suck eggs, but just incase: How to check continuity/chase wires
Why would there be a problem posting pin numbers and colours? They would find it very difficult to remove the dash top - Health and safety alert, make sure the car is in neutral
Don't post the pin numbers or wire colours anywhere because it will make it 100x easier for thieves to bypass the immobiliser.
Not teaching you to suck eggs, but just incase: How to check continuity/chase wires
Edited by s p a c e m a n on Sunday 12th January 14:47
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