chassis refurb, waxoyl or not?

[Mrbuildingserv]

i am in the middle of rebuilding my chimp after a decade off the road and once completed it will be used in dry conditions other than whmen i get caught out. i have a nice shiny newly powdercoated chassis and after reading other threads am confused wethter to waxoyl or not also is waxoyl going to mess the appearance of it, or should i leave it podercoated and inspect yearly to keep it tip top?

[pwd95]

Nice coating of Dinitrol on the outriggers & where the body sits on the chassis will be my method if I ever get round to it.

[jamescooper47]

I waxed mine.... Some people say it gathers dirt... but who cares, as long as their is a good coating of the stuff, it wont touch the chassis. When u come to re-coat it, just scrape out the crud, and underneath is nice clean metal.

You will find out when you use it, it gets everywhere, and you become a fully waterproof human for days after, and you also get a nice waterproof driver as a bonus as the excess drips off.

Its worked for the last 7 years on my mini too, keeping her in tip top condition with use during winter and summer.

I would recommend seriously coating any area exposed to stone chips first though, and ive used good old Underseal with waxoyl in it, again worked for years on the mini and currently working on my chim.

Have fun

[Toolbox200]

Hi, having spent a few weeks working on the suspension of my waxoyled Chim I found that it is the most unpleasant stuff, everything gets sticky and black, you have to wash your spanners every time you use them. It doesn't appear to be that effective either particularly as corrosion from damage just creeps under the powder coat. My intention is to remove it so I can see what's going on and just keep on top of the maintenance of the chassis.

[Alun450]

If you cover a chassis that's already breaking down then you could be hiding rot as oxidisation has already taken place I'm sure it will slow the process but not for long!
If your sure of the integrity of your chassis coating then it should work ok.
It is dirty old stuff and I'd rather leave the chassis bare but if your going to splash through water I'd apply the stuff!

[WOO5IE]

If you don't want it looking black and dirty why not use the clear stuff. You can also see the chassis under it as well.
Unlike the original TVR powder coat you shouldn't get any corrosion under the coating anyway.

Waxoyl would just give a softer area if a stone was to hit perhaps saving a powder coat chip.

[steve j]

pwd95 said:

Nice coating of Dinitrol on the outriggers & where the body sits on the chassis will be my method if I ever get round to it.

Hello wyn, dinitrol is much prefered to waxoyl, it dries to a tougher finish, airlines use it on their jets, especially around the undercarraige, so good enough for a Tiv chassis.

[blitzracing]

I think the stuff is simply cheap and cheerful- but once you start its difficult to go back- It dries out over a period, so you need to reapply it on a regular basis. I simply thin some down with white spirit and spray on top of whats there on a year basis to reseal any dry areas. On its plus side you can pretty much mix it with the Waxoyl under seal and the whole lot bonds together quite nicely, as you would never be able to paint over it otherwise on high wear areas.

One of the chaps on here was raving about these products:

http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes

[CHEF_GOLF]

I'm having the outriggers pumped with the clear stuff and the underbody sprayed with the clear stuff as it contains less water in it due to having no colour pigment ( so I am told reliably) mine is 21 years old this year and have just had to replace the outriggers after having her sprayed 14 years ago. So not bad as she used to be my Dailey drive for 7 of these 14

[Mrbuildingserv]

after reading some of these answers and others from previous threads, i am starting to wonder if the waxoyl does in fact penetrate the powder coat and cause it to fail as it would penetrate rust. i will contact the technical on waxoyl and let you know the outcome before i commit to anything

[K4TRV]

Mrbuildingserv said:

after reading some of these answers and others from previous threads, i am starting to wonder if the waxoyl does in fact penetrate the powder coat and cause it to fail as it would penetrate rust. i will contact the technical on waxoyl and let you know the outcome before i commit to anything

I think you're reading too much into what Waxoyl "is"!!

Having used it on and off the past 45 years, it is what it says on the tin, a Wax dissolved in white spirit. It will have healing properties the same as all waxes, waterproof properties as per all waxes.

The white spirit will not undermine powder coatings, unless they have failed? If failed waxoyl will creep and cover the failure, but it will only slow down corrosion not remove it.

If you want rust destroying properties, you have to pay for them - there are a plethora of far superior products -- but none provide great value for money as effectively as waxoyl -- IMVHO

A DIY user and not associated with any Company/Product.

T

[hdandy]

I'm struggling with this question at the moment as well.

I'm leaning more towards a goods zinc based protection before the powdercoat and then leave it at that.

My chassis has been waxoyled, and as previously mentioned it just makes a mess of tools / clothes / skin when you are working on the car.

[GTRene]

I wouldn't touch wax-oil on top of the coating/zinc myself, its ok in the hollow parts like TVR also did what I have read about it (early cars), they used it inside the pipes/steel so they were also a bit protected from that side.

best sounding for me would be a zinc bath so that inside out is covered with it and then some good maybe a bit flexible top coat and that would be it.

second best would be that hot zinc spray with a good topcoat, and if possible also in the tubes some protection...

or just make a stainless steel chassis, nowadays with all those different types steel and welding procedures it has to be possible to make a good strong stainless chassis?
yes it would cost double the price, but you don't have to bring a paint on it etc. and you have a lot less worries, also makes a good discussion on TVR days/events

edit, I see they offer that too...>

said:

Everything will be available for you to buy in person and also from TVR Power’s online store, so purchasing your new OEM chassis and components couldn’t be easier. For the connoisseur, zinc coated and even stainless steel OEM chassis are also an option, with prices available upon request.

http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/news/slug/tvrpower-oem-chassis/

Edited by GTRene on Monday 27th January 12:22

[Andy JB]

Well after treating my chassis 8 years ago with various paint preps without waxoyl - its still as good now as then.

One area i do treat regularly with the black rubberised spray waxoyl is the front chassis outriggers high impact areas behind front wheels which do chip & could corrode. Its easy to apply regularly & being rubberised protects from most chipping.

Also remove any loose stones before they have chance to accelerate corrosion. Should be no need to waxoyl whole chassis but better than nothing if left untreated.